sputtering.. constant boost? need help please

norcalboostin707 · Aug 6, 2013

Well hello there fellow dsmers.. I have been looking through forums and reading in my chilton every day for almost 3 years since i got my 1g... Cant find anything to relate to my problems. Ok so far ive done new wires new plugs.. I have adjusted the BISS screw today and adjusted the(cas) both with no luck. So heres a description of the problems at hand.. Car starts fine idles at a cool grand til its functional then itll drop to around 700-800 which i believe is fairly normal... Car will run fine until it reaches midway of heat gauge which i consider operating temp... As soon as it hits operating temperature car falls on its face.. ( by this i mean huge loss of power turbo still spools but it takes a minute for it to actually move out of its way). For the last week now, after putting in new prothane poly mounts it has been dying when i put vehicle into neutral while driving.. Even sitting in my driveway reving it up and it would die... I fixed the dying part today while checking the BISS screw and cas.. Timing is at 5btdc i believe.. Ok here comes the kicker... Main question time.. While driving on the highway this evening got car to operating temps, car seems as if it ia trting to boosy while at 1/4 throttle.. Which isnt normal. Used roughly a quarter of a tank for 25 miles of driving... Car is sputtering while im cruising 3k rpms in 3rd gear at 30mph it keeps wanting to boost with light throttle... Anyone have any kind of input... Sorry for the ear bender hope to get some help quickly thank you guys for your time and patience..

bryanwheat · Aug 6, 2013

Check for boost leaks.

ChiTownHussla · Aug 6, 2013

Any smoke or smells.

norcalboostin707 · Aug 6, 2013

Just the smoke from exhaust smells rich and i have some oil residue on the top of my turbo but that im positive is from the return line i have those being shipped now thru ebay... Would boost leak cause it to sputter n try n stay in boost like that

bryanwheat · Aug 6, 2013

norcalboostin707 said:
Just the smoke from exhaust smells rich and i have some oil residue on the top of my turbo but that im positive is from the return line i have those being shipped now thru ebay... Would boost leak cause it to sputter n try n stay in boost like that

Sputtering yes, the other question I am not exactly sure what you mean. Is it just spooling faster. A rather large boost leak would cause the turbo to spool faster, but the power would be low

norcalboostin707 · Aug 6, 2013

No the car use to be able to give it light throttle without making the turbo engage in order to cruise and consever gas but as soon as i touch the pedal while driving it just starts boosting.. And wont "cruise"

2000mitsygt · Aug 7, 2013

Check your wastegate.

norcalboostin707 · Aug 8, 2013

I think my Watergate is operating properly.. I need to recirculate it because when it blows off a light mist cones out that im pretty sure its fuel coming out it smells like fuel. And when im driving it causes inside the cab to smell like fuel..

PotatoFlakeSTi · Aug 8, 2013

norcalboostin707 said:
I think my Watergate is operating properly.. I need to recirculate it because when it blows off a light mist cones out that im pretty sure its fuel coming out it smells like fuel. And when im driving it causes inside the cab to smell like fuel..

The wastegate is on the turbo.

But yes, you should recirculate your blowoff valve. Also, get/build a boost leak tester, and test for boost leaks...

Sidenote; If "mist" is coming out of your blowoff valve, it's probably oil, since fuel hasn't entered into the equation at that point.

jmoorman1123 · Aug 8, 2013

Have you checked the Knock sensor? If it is blown it could cause some of what you are describing

93xsg · Aug 11, 2013

Sounds like you could be really rich. explains fuel consumption, lack of power and rich smell.

Do u have a wideband o2 or datalogging at all?

You car is probably running good when u first start it because your ecu is in open loop. Once it hits operating temperature it goes into closed loop where it uses sensor feedback to determine fuel injection.

Leaking metered air would cause rich conditions. Which to me (I'm no expert) seem to meet all of your problems pretty well.

If u start the car and drive it right away before it warms up how does it drive?

norcalboostin707 · Aug 12, 2013

Havent checked knock sensors... How do i check them? And im going to get some tubing right now to recirculate bov.. Car does run very rich. I do have wideband o2 and aem air fuel meter in car at idle car fluctuates around 17 and then it red lines.. Cant tell how rich it runs after 18.. What do i have to fix in order to keep it from going into that closed loop... Or to run proper while in closed loop.. Im positive that i need to have the car tuned but closest place to tune it at is over an hr away.. I could have it towed if need be... But it runs decent to go to and from work which is just 5 mins away.... This all started when my apexi safc went out but if that were the case it should have saved the tune on ecu... Im almost at the point that i wanna give up on my 1g but i love it so.mich... My uncle (import guy) says it could be tps but this problem has been going on before i pulled the tb and cleaned it all... Thanks for the help you guys i appreciate it highly... Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly needed at this point if not ima be spendin 600 at a shop that doesnt know left from right.. Id rather work on my own

Dsmkauai · Aug 12, 2013

Are you saying your wideband is reading 17-18 because that's really lean bro. and also could explain why turbo is spooling so easy leaner mix means hotter exhaust air and will push the turbine much quicker but is also very dangerous. Stoich is 14.7:1, this meaning 14.7 parts of air to 1 part fuel. So anything that goes lower like 12-11-10-9 is getting rich less air more fuel. And anything going higher 15-16-17 means more air and less fuel meaning lean. Hope that helps you understand alittle better if you didn't already. Also since you have a fuel pressure gauge what is that reading at idle should be like 43.5 or close to that. And what do you have to tune with? What size injectors are you running? And how much boost are you trying to push?

Boostdriven · Aug 12, 2013

norcalboostin707 said:
This all started when my apexi safc went out but if that were the case it should have saved the tune on ecu...

Apexi safc does not save anything to the ECU, its a piggyback. All it does is manipulate the MAF signal to the ECU. If you took out the safc but you have stock injectors (450cc) then that shouldn't effect anything.

What I don't understand is that you say your wideband is reading 17+ which is lean but you still smell fuel in the car. Have you checked to see if you have any fuel leaks in the engine bay and by the fuel tank?

Check the things that Dsmkauai told you and let us know what you find out.

norcalboostin707 · Aug 13, 2013

Ok so today i searched throughout my room and garage and cant find my aftermarket fpr.. So im gunna have to order one of the cheap ebay ones and hook it up might take a weak to show up... Car is definately leaning itself out to where it dies so i disconnected the recirculation hose that i hooked up yesterday and is idleing a little better.. Still idles way to rich... If my safc went out could that cause my car to be stuck in limp mode... I think this vehicle was tuned while it had the safc installed and without it could it be messing it up... Everyones telling me i need it tuned.. Stock 450cc injectors stock fuel pump.. Im gunna get a new fuel filter and the new fpr and change them out.. Another peraon had suggested that maybe one of my injectors have gummed up but ive ran sea foam and nos ans turbo 108 octane boosters thru it so maybe it melted or i could have a ripped/torn/melted o ring on the fuel injectors?... Another thing.. When i upgraded from the stock smic to the greddy fmic should i also have upgraded the wastegate.. Im still not sure what to check on the wastegate.. Thanks guys ill post vid tonight after dinner

norcalboostin707 · Aug 27, 2013

Ok so update on problem.. Sorry it took me so long.. Cant post vid no wifi and my cells acting up.. So i did a boost leak test. Revealed leaks at tps, biss screw, bov, and a clamp was loose... I fixed bov new gasket with some sealer on it set biss screw and put some silicone around it and tiggtened clamp... Still leaks on motor side of tps tried to tighten it down but still leaks... Had my brother over today to look at car he said my timing was an issue and is causing it to run in limp mode.. Ok so ordered new timing kit today should be here in a week along with a new exhaust manifold to get rid of my cracked stockie.. So alpt of my fam has said that my car is running in limp mode that when it hits operating temps it goes into limp mode.. My car throws no codes.. No cel.. Boosts leaks will be finished by next Tuesday (monday&tuesday) off work.. Any ideas why car could be putting itself into limp mode? Thanks for your time your patience and your help...

athlete3344 · Aug 28, 2013

The red flag I see is you say you smell fuel and say its running rich, but your WBO2 says youre running lean. Check for fuel leaks in the engine bay like a previous member mentioned.

From what you described, the engine is not getting the required fuel, so you are trying to band-aid the problem by taking shortcuts and throwing parts at it instead of fixing it (not recircing the BOV without tuning software, tightening the TB/intake instead of pulling it off and replacing gaskets, etc).

Take some time and check for fuel leaks, check seals in the fuel components, examine your TB/intake manifold by removing it, scrape it down, use a new gasket, and torque it down to spec. These things may save you money in the long run.

norcalboostin707 · Aug 28, 2013

athlete3344 said:
The red flag I see is you say you smell fuel and say its running rich, but your WBO2 says youre running lean. Check for fuel leaks in the engine bay like a previous member mentioned.

From what you described, the engine is not getting the required fuel, so you are trying to band-aid the problem by taking shortcuts and throwing parts at it instead of fixing it (not recircing the BOV without tuning software, tightening the TB/intake instead of pulling it off and replacing gaskets, etc).

Take some time and check for fuel leaks, check seals in the fuel components, examine your TB/intake manifold by removing it, scrape it down, use a new gasket, and torque it down to spec. These things may save you money in the long run.

Ok so i had tb off yesterday while i was tightening the lower bolt om the tps and replaced both gaskets to intake manifold and to intake neck.. When doing blt i sprayed injectors.. Idk if that would tell me if inj o rings are leaking or not but i had no bubbles on my intake.. So when my timing kit gets here ill get a new fuel filter and im gunna be ordering a fpr and aftermarket fuel pump. And also replacing the orings inside the injectors

Zack Huffman · Aug 28, 2013

athlete3344 said:
The red flag I see is you say you smell fuel and say its running rich, but your WBO2 says youre running lean.

Misfires. It reads lean because of excess unburned oxygen being dumped into the exhaust. In reality, it's probably way overloaded with fuel. Have we verified that the injectors really are 450's? Nobody really invests in a SAFC on stock fuel.

jmoorman1123 said:
Have you checked the Knock sensor? If it is blown it could cause some of what you are describing

Very likely.

How hot does it get? Something is retarding the timing. Whether by a bad knock sensor or by high coolant temps.

norcalboostin707 · Aug 28, 2013

delta448 said:
Misfires. It reads lean because of excess unburned oxygen being dumped into the exhaust. In reality, it's probably way overloaded with fuel. Have we verified that the injectors really are 450's? Nobody really invests in a SAFC on stock fuel.

Very likely.

How hot does it get? Something is retarding the timing. Whether by a bad knock sensor or by high coolant temps.

Ok so no idea where the knock sensors are or how to tell if theyve gone out.. Car runs at like half way on the coolant temp gauge which i believe to be.normal no matter how hard i run it it stays at that halfway mark.. And they are stock 450s blue tops and also has stock fuel pump... I know they are 450s for a fact i had one that melted the clip so i replaced a couple old clips and put in new brand new 450s...

athlete3344 · Aug 29, 2013

delta448 said:
Misfires. It reads lean because of excess unburned oxygen being dumped into the exhaust. In reality, it's probably way overloaded with fuel. Have we verified that the injectors really are 450's? Nobody really invests in a SAFC on stock fuel.

Very likely.

How hot does it get? Something is retarding the timing. Whether by a bad knock sensor or by high coolant temps.

Ah, that makes sense. In that case, the exhaust would smell like gas then correct?

Zack Huffman · Aug 29, 2013

norcalboostin707 said:
Ok so no idea where the knock sensors are or how to tell if theyve gone out..

Screws into the block behind cylinder #2, underneath the intake manifold. If bad, usually will have goo oozing out of it.

norcalboostin707 said:
Car runs at like half way on the coolant temp gauge which i believe to be.normal no matter how hard i run it it stays at that halfway mark..

But what does the CTS say the temp is? That's what the ECU uses, not the gauge sender.

athlete3344 said:
Ah, that makes sense. In that case, the exhaust would smell like gas then correct?

Definitely.

norcalboostin707 · Aug 29, 2013

What is the cts i dont have anything that gives me a number for degrees in Celsius or fahrenheit thats the Next gauge im buying... And ill check the knock When i get a break away from work

athlete3344 · Aug 29, 2013

CTS is coolant temperature sensor, and if you have dsmlink then you can see the temp.

norcalboostin707 · Aug 30, 2013

delta448 said:
Fixed.
Even a parts-store scan tool can view it.

Too bad my orielys and autozone and napa auto parts stores here don't have an OBD 0... Gotta love 1g plymouth lasers :'(... I wish i had the money to get dsm link even the people sellin em online are tryin to get 500+ for it

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sputtering.. constant boost? need help please

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