$65, that's it? I may have to do that just to have spares.

What's with the reproduction of the front wheel well vent aesthetic thingies? Did your fiberglass pieces break? Or are you just making some spares? It's not a bad idea to make some spares because man have I flexed mine a ton jacking the car up on lifts. It's a pain in the ass to get the car on a lift with how high the chassis is relative to the sideskirts, and often things compress and shift slightly just enough or the lift will raise/lower unevenly resulting in slight compression of the sideskirt, and those vent thingies (I have no word for them since they're just for looks) always bow out in those situations. Worried one day one will crack

Wow.


Just wow.

TSiAWD666 said:

$65, that's it? I may have to do that just to have spares.

What's with the reproduction of the front wheel well vent aesthetic thingies? Did your fiberglass pieces break? Or are you just making some spares? It's not a bad idea to make some spares because man have I flexed mine a ton jacking the car up on lifts. It's a pain in the ass to get the car on a lift with how high the chassis is relative to the sideskirts, and often things compress and shift slightly just enough or the lift will raise/lower unevenly resulting in slight compression of the sideskirt, and those vent thingies (I have no word for them since they're just for looks) always bow out in those situations. Worried one day one will crack

Click to expand...

Mine where all different lengths and i actually did crack on messing with itl so i decided som nice ones made out of metal would be nice. They are all the same sizes now. I can weld nuts on to them or something else to make removal a snap. and I'm pretty sure they are lighter in the alumium form. Best part was my friend ran them as a 3am shift special for me since the fab shop gave me a retarded bid that was tring to exploit the whole custom thing. I hate that thpe of bull shit.

yeah only 65 bucks. i will say for the best finish on the bolts you want to have them super super clean. mine where all media blasted prior to having them plated.

I thought about buying this kit to do it. Electroplating System Tin Zinc - Tin Electroplating System Kit - Zinc Plating Polish

I ended up just media blasting, rust converter, and plain chassis black mine instead but the zinc looks so much better.

What detail have you overlooked on this build? I know the answer on that. Nothing. Lovin it.

greengoblin said:

When you get the subframe dropped can you get me a few good pics of the fuel tank strap mounting points. The straps have "hooks" on them where they bolt to the frame under the rear cross member. I have been wondering about what if anything they hook on too.

Said hook thing.

Click to expand...

Looks like the "hook" seats up against the back of the bolt and allows some gap between the chassis and the strap.

gofer said:

Looks like the "hook" seats up against the back of the bolt and allows some gap between the chassis and the strap.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info sir.

Update:
So I'm moving from Idaho all the way down to Texas . To do this I did a decent push to get the car all mocked up and ready for it voyage in a trailer. Here is what I have done.

Finally found time to braze the roof skin on.



Aero bits where cut out .







Found out that my wheels fit perfect up front. No spacer was need and great clearance on the inside and no poke past the front aero bits. Super happy about that.

Suspension is all together and the car is on the ground with a good bit of interior in place and steering wheel installed for now. That will be changed up a bit at a later date but for now it looks sweet and turns the wheels. All that left is a quick toe adjustment. Should have my Longacre plate in the next few days for that.

It's a bit rough looking but overall I love the car. To bad it will all come apart again when it get to Texas.

greengoblin said:

Update:
So I'm moving from Idaho all the way down to Texas .

Click to expand...

Excellent! Only a few hours away from me now; I'll get started on your to-do list for the body work I need done.


****

Awesome job on the car man. That is sick.

Yeah Craig, I'm going to be in McKinney so I'll be pretty darn close to you.

Cool deal. I used to work for a company in McKinney.

Going to work for Robert at Forced Performance?

Calan said:

Cool deal. I used to work for a company in McKinney.

Going to work for Robert at Forced Performance?

Click to expand...

Who knows? I rule out nothing.

If so.... Lucky

Aghh this build!!! Great Work. I envy your fabrication skills and can only wish to one day be able to do some of the things you've done! Good luck with the move and look forward to seeing this creation come alive.

So what are you using to turn all that rubber? I think i remember reading that the stock rack has trouble with the super wide tires.

your custom rear sway bar end links are in single shear..... That's not good.... I'd be worried about that bolt failing since threads are stress risers and in cornering you'll be applying a moment to the bolt head basically.


can't wait to see this car done, looking good so far. I'd also be worried about scrub radius as that's what will kill steering rack seals/tie rod ends. Are you converting to spherical/clevis joint there too? I would highly suggest it to eliminate play.

http://www.circletrack.com/howto/ctrp_0511_install_nascar_style_sway_bar/OnUOTE=kayosfrawg;153uing to turn all that rubber? I think i remember reading that the stock rack has trouble with the super wide tires.[/QUOTE]

tstkl said:

your custom rear sway bar end links are in single shear..... That's not good.... I'd be worried about that bolt failing since threads are stress risers and in cornering you'll be applying a moment to the bolt head basically.


can't wait to see this car done, looking good so far. I'd also be worried about scrub radius as that's what will kill steering rack seals/tie rod ends. Are you converting to spherical/clevis joint there too? I would highly suggest it to eliminate play.

Click to expand...

On the rack. It will handle the tires. Andrew's car is running the OEM rack and John's is as well. The pressure has to be adjusted a bit but that is about all. If it does not work out I'll look for a different unit.

Once we have the new uprights designed and built the tie rod ends will be changed out.

On the end links. yes double shear is always best but itis not always possible or needed.


Install a NASCAR Style Sway Bar - How To - Circle Track Magazine

sorrry if that this post has errors and such. All I have to reply on right now is my phone . Blah!

I've had only two weekends on track with the 315 r-compounds but with my power steering pump modification to drop the peak pressure I haven't blown the rack (knock on wood). Only time will tell!

Btw on the sway bar endlinks make sure your brake lines are no where near the rotational path of the sway bar. Had a friend have one of his rear end links snap on his track car and his sway bar then swung up and sliced his rear brake line. He went off track at 120+mph. Survived with no body damage by some freak luck, but his oil pan drain ripped out on the gators as we he went off track so not completely unscathed. Had he hit a wall it wouldn't have been pretty. I don't recall the brake line path on the rear and while I think it's towards the front (probably to avoid just this type of scenario) I figured I'd mention it.

What did you do to lower the peak pressure? I searched but didn't find anything on what was done or how to do it.

Wow, this is by far one of the best DSM builds I have ever seen.

Awesome work!

Hope my car gets to this point someday!!

greengoblin said:

http://www.circletrack.com/howto/ctrp_0511_install_nascar_style_sway_bar/OnUOTE=kayosfrawg;153uing to turn all that rubber? I think i remember reading that the stock rack has trouble with the super wide tires.



On the rack. It will handle the tires. Andrew's car is running the OEM rack and John's is as well. The pressure has to be adjusted a bit but that is about all. If it does not work out I'll look for a different unit.

Once we have the new uprights designed and built the tie rod ends will be changed out.

On the end links. yes double shear is always best but itis not always possible or needed.


Install a NASCAR Style Sway Bar - How To - Circle Track Magazine

sorrry if that this post has errors and such. All I have to reply on right now is my phone . Blah!

Click to expand...

Unfortunately those are two completely different designs. The design pictured in the nascar link has the pushrod in double shear, with the bolt fixed to the LCA via a nut. The only forces which will be acting on the bolt in single shear will be the swaybar. Most importantly, this design allows the threads of the bolt to be on the "free" end of the two supports and thus see no moment. Obviously since the two supports don't act as true pin connections there is some force in the threaded part of the bolt, but it is considerably less than your set up. Because the threads themselves transfer the force of both the swaybar and the shock/spring (weight, aero, and weight transfer) through to the upright in single shear, there is a large moment developing near the root where the threads are.

I'd imagine the bolt will see some pretty incredible shear forces + moments under acceleration out of high speed steady state cornering. This is definitely one of those better safe than sorry situations in my opinion. Particularly while the car isn't finished and all the designs aren't done.

greengoblin said:

Test fit of endlinks.

Click to expand...

Also it would appear to me that in order to prevent the swaybar from having its motion restricted by the shock, a large spacer is needed. This only exaggerates the problem of moment at the root of the bolt.

That is simply a mock up pic.

The dampner is bolted to the oem stud. That will be welded to the knuckle. The bolt that goes through the rod end only keeps the strut from sliding off the stud and handles only the sway bar loads. Yes there will be a spacer but it is smaller. Again that pic was just a mock up. I had not adjusted the lower control arms. they where simple threaded out and some random left over spacers where thrown on so people could see where this was headed. Most peeps on this site have never seen this type of setup and I just wanted to share.

I didn't mean to be disrespectful or anything, its just something I wouldn't be comfortable with.

The build looks great otherwise. Can't wait to see it running.

tstkl said:

I didn't mean to be disrespectful or anything, its just something I wouldn't be comfortable with.

The build looks great otherwise. Can't wait to see it running.

Click to expand...

I do not take any feed back as disrespectful . I appreciate it. I totally agree it is not ideal . I just wanted to give the best picture I can on what the current plan is. Heck it may change before the cat is done. Packaging is very tight and when this design came about custom uprights where not in the cards. Currently all I have to reply with is phone so my answers may be shorter than normal.

Thanks again,

Kevin

First off, wow!! So much time and dedication going into this build. Truly inspirational, really. I seriously just read this build thread from beginning to end. I live in Plano if you ever need an extra set of hand on stand by when you are doing some work. My schedule is pretty open as well except tuesday and thursday due to having class. I would be happy to help out and I'm not looking to get paid, would be a learning experience to further my own knowledge and skill base. I also know of some good paint shops that do excellent work. Probably by far one of the best in DFW is Stuart's on Plano rd just off of 635. They typically do high end cars such as Ferraris and such, and if Im not mistaken they are certified by Ferrari, so you know they do quality work. Their prices aren't too bad either so long as you have everything ready to go and basically they would just need to throw it in the booth. Again though, I would be eager to lend a hand even if it's just being the wing man handing you tools so you can keep the rhythm going. I know when I'm doing some major work on my cars I always appreciate a friend around on stand by with tools, parts, etc so I don't constantly have to keep getting out from under car to grab another tool. Again, my reward would be seeing this beast come to life and gain more knowledge, pm me if you're interested and I'll give you my contact info.

Billy


*again, this is truly an inspiration to myself and others who know what doing your own work is like, one day she will be ready, and the fact I'm close by it would be an honor to see her in action.*

Texas? wohoo!!! Looking awesome!