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DSM Link.. Which package should I buy?

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Subie_Tech_Intl

Proven Member
51
0
Jan 4, 2013
Merizo, Guam, Australia
After much searching I dont understand which DSM Link Package I need. All I know is that my car is barely modded and i may need to change out the ecu. So I figured that if I have to buy a new ecu, I should replace it with a DSM Link v3 Package. But my problems is I dont know what options and stuff I should select when ordering it.
 
You shouldn't need a new ecu. Just get the v3 package. Send in your ecu, they socket the eprom and give you a datagogging cable. Then download the software from the website and bam, your tuning. They need your injector size to apply a setting on the eprom, so if you plan on bigger injectors soon id get them as well. That way you dont have to send the ecu back to get adjusted for the new injectors.
 
Get the full version. I don't know why ecmlink would even waste time doing a lite version. At 550 or do, ecmlink is worth every cent for what it can do.
 
I cheaped out and got lite LOL. Works awesome, just not all the bells and whistles. Upgrading to the full version soon but I want some fic 1550 blue maxes to go with it
 
I have never heard of sending your ecu back and not just typing it in yourself, for new injectors... and ecmlink v3 lite is amazing, but wont fix a broken ecu, but they do service ecu's there... and sell new ones if yours isn't working.
 
Lite is good enough but for a little extra you will have full version.

you shouldn't need a new ecu. Just get the v3 package. Send in your ecu, they socket the eprom and give you a datagogging cable. Then download the software from the website and bam, your tuning. They need your injector size to apply a setting on the eprom, so if you plan on bigger injectors soon id get them as well. That way you dont have to send the ecu back to get adjusted for the new injectors.


???WTF
 
Troubleshoot, that's the beauty of ecmlink you can change to any injector you want and program/tune them in yourself. O.P. If your new to tuning go with v3 lite, this gets you more than everything you probably need to tune and get the most out of your setup. Then once you get used to the lite version and your setup is getting crazy, and its time to go SD. Then upgrade to full v3 version and get SD bundle. Or get all that out of the way and dive in head first and go with the full version and get the SD package for future use. Hope that helps and you only have to send your EPROM ecu in once for a socket job, unless you do this yourself. The speed density package is nice, which gives you a map sensor and iat which you can use right away to get more out of your tune. Also be sure to get a good wideband this is very important to proper tuning.
 
Okay okay okay.. I don'y understand all the acronyms..LOL. I'm having an issue with my car where replacing the ecu might be necessary, that's why I'm asking what all do I need to buy. All the options like GM something or other and MAFT and EPROM..I'm confused after searching for a defined answer XD
I have a '98 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 5-speed with a type-s blow off valve (recirc'd), custom exhaust (chopped and hacked apex'i/flowmaster straight pipe and catless), manual boost controller, intake and Prothane bushings (engine, trans,front and all struts). the only thing I installed on the car was the bushings, other than that I bought the car this way. Never really had time or money to modify anything.. it's been mostly a restoration and maintenance project so far.. not so fun :(
FYI.. I live in Guam now. Humidity and rain are an everyday issue here and rust and potholes are the biggest enemy here.
 
do it right the first time. Just buy the full version and save yourself time. You will eventually upgrade
 
Troubleshoot, that's the beauty of ecmlink you can change to any injector you want and program/tune them in yourself. O.P. If your new to tuning go with v3 lite, this gets you more than everything you probably need to tune and get the most out of your setup. Then once you get used to the lite version and your setup is getting crazy, and its time to go SD. Then upgrade to full v3 version and get SD bundle. Or get all that out of the way and dive in head first and go with the full version and get the SD package for future use. Hope that helps and you only have to send your EPROM ecu in once for a socket job, unless you do this yourself. The speed density package is nice, which gives you a map sensor and iat which you can use right away to get more out of your tune. Also be sure to get a good wideband this is very important to proper tuning.

I concur with this... I did the v3 lite version just to learn the program, without having to much to worry about at once. And did the LC-1 w/b, working out awesome. Pretty soon I will need to get the MAP sensor and the full version, but for the moment just trying to get my turbo setup in order... hope this help's a bit.
 
To o.p. (original poster) sounds like Kauai LOL!! :) So you have a 98 and you will need to find a 95 EPROM ecu to run ecmlink in your car. The EPROM part is what is necessary to install the ecmlink chip into your ecu. If I were you I would find a good 95 EPROM ecu off the classifieds on this forum. Send the ecu to ecmlink for a socket job and get the v3 lite don't worry about anything else (gm maft, SD and so on). You want to get your feet wet first this will be the best way, and you can learn and add on along the way. Or find a used system in the classifieds someone selling a EPROM ecu and link, if you find a good deal you can save some money. Any other ? Bro just ask
Acronym help LOL - GM (general motors), Sd (speed density), EPROM (Electronically Programmable ROM), ECU (engine control unit), MAF (mass air flow), MAFT (mass air flow translator), MAP (manifold absolute pressure)
 
just go lite. Can still run speed density. No idea why everyone says and where everyone got that you need the full version for it. The deffirences between lite and full are only for the hardcore strip only type cars. Cant really find or see a real reason for full otherwise so save a little and get lite n get the sd bundle and go for it. Goodluck
 
^^ correct you can run speed density with either lite or full, I don't see we're anyone said you couldn't? O.p your setup is pretty simple and your still learning I wouldn't even worry about speed density yet. Your far off from maxing out the stock mas in your car. The only thing you may benefit from is getting a map sensor so you can accurately log boost, just makes tuning alittle easier and is nice to be able to see logged.
 
If you can find/afford the Full version, then it wouldn't be a bad idea to go that route. It has all kinds of nifty extras like individual injector adjustments.

However, the Lite version is still very potent. I'm personally still using the Lite version and would consider my car pretty heavily modified for a "street legal" DSM. The only limitation I've ran into is the lack of detailed tuning past 8000rpm. Otherwise it's been more than I need.

Also, just to avoid some confusion, you don't need a 95 EPROM ECU to run Link. Any 95-97 ECU can be converted to EPROM, then fitted with a "socket" that allows you to install the Link chip. It's just easier to find a factory EPROM ECU to avoid the hassle/cost of EPROM conversion. And don't forget, there's a good chance your current ECU is flashable (if it's not damage) so keep that option in mind.
 
Uhhh... what?

Yeah exactly. :confused: WTF The smiley explains it all.
I never could figure out why they want that spec for your chip when you can just change it to whatever you want anyways with your own laptop. I assume for ease of first start.

If you want to go the link route and have the cash to blow or intend on modding later and needing link full then go for it. If your on a tight budget a future upgrade from lite to v3 full isn't very much or they will have the next latest and greatest thing out. Possibly by that time you may have to send in the ECU to be checked out/repaired anyways. Not to wish some bad luck on you but we are talking about 15+ yr old ECU's.
 
To o.p. (original poster) sounds like Kauai LOL!! :) So you have a 98 and you will need to find a 95 EPROM ecu to run ecmlink in your car. The EPROM part is what is necessary to install the ecmlink chip into your ecu. If I were you I would find a good 95 EPROM ecu off the classifieds on this forum. Send the ecu to ecmlink for a socket job and get the v3 lite don't worry about anything else (gm maft, SD and so on). You want to get your feet wet first this will be the best way, and you can learn and add on along the way. Or find a used system in the classifieds someone selling a EPROM ecu and link, if you find a good deal you can save some money. Any other ? Bro just ask
Acronym help LOL - GM (general motors), Sd (speed density), EPROM (Electronically Programmable ROM), ECU (engine control unit), MAF (mass air flow), MAFT (mass air flow translator), MAP (manifold absolute pressure)

just go lite. Can still run speed density. No idea why everyone says and where everyone got that you need the full version for it. The deffirences between lite and full are only for the hardcore strip only type cars. Cant really find or see a real reason for full otherwise so save a little and get lite n get the sd bundle and go for it. Goodluck

If you can find/afford the Full version, then it wouldn't be a bad idea to go that route. It has all kinds of nifty extras like individual injector adjustments.

However, the Lite version is still very potent. I'm personally still using the Lite version and would consider my car pretty heavily modified for a "street legal" DSM. The only limitation I've ran into is the lack of detailed tuning past 8000rpm. Otherwise it's been more than I need.

Also, just to avoid some confusion, you don't need a 95 EPROM ECU to run Link. Any 95-97 ECU can be converted to EPROM, then fitted with a "socket" that allows you to install the Link chip. It's just easier to find a factory EPROM ECU to avoid the hassle/cost of EPROM conversion. And don't forget, there's a good chance your current ECU is flashable (if it's not damage) so keep that option in mind.

:thumb: Thanks! This definitely clears things up.
 
Maybe things have changed bit. When I got link a few years ago you needed to give them your injector size. You could change injector size a little with whatever your original setup, but if you went from say 850's to 1650's they said you had to send it back for some type of reprogramming. My car has sat for almost 2 years so maybe its different now. I know you can adjust for different injectors in link but before you had to be in the range of your original purchased setup. Lol haha I guess...

From ecmlink knowledge base.

"If I buy DSMLink now and upgrade to larger injectors later, do I need a new chip?

The answer depends on how large a change you're making and which version of DSMLink you're running."

This is what I was referring to...
 
Now I know that in case I need to replace my ECU, I can just look for the same year as my car w/ EPROM and socketed.. I can run that as "OEM", until i can afford ECM Link :) Thanks everyone! :D
 
Troubleshoot that refers to the versions before v3 just FYI, that was one of the big changes with v3 the ability to use any injector.
STI-
Actually in 98 they switched to the black box ecu which is flashable (ceddymod, Evoscan). You won't find a 98 EPROM anywhere bro. Only 95 was EPROM, but 96-97 ecu's can be converted to EPROM, But not 98-99.
 
No it won't because you have the 98 cam sensor and the 95 is different. And I think you need ecmlink to make the change for this, I might be wrong. Also you have to switch the plug wires order around, or use the tab in ecmlink to switch for you. I would email Tom with ecmlink and ask about the cam sensor just to get a 100% answer. But I'm pretty sure I'm right about your going to need link to run it properly and without fighting things. Hope I've been able to help ya bro! :)
 
Okay okay okay.. I don'y understand all the acronyms..LOL. I'm having an issue with my car where replacing the ecu might be necessary, that's why I'm asking what all do I need to buy. All the options like GM something or other and MAFT and EPROM..I'm confused after searching for a defined answer XD
I have a '98 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 5-speed with a type-s blow off valve (recirc'd), custom exhaust (chopped and hacked apex'i/flowmaster straight pipe and catless), manual boost controller, intake and Prothane bushings (engine, trans,front and all struts). the only thing I installed on the car was the bushings, other than that I bought the car this way. Never really had time or money to modify anything.. it's been mostly a restoration and maintenance project so far.. not so fun :(
FYI.. I live in Guam now. Humidity and rain are an everyday issue here and rust and potholes are the biggest enemy here.


I guess my first question would be, why do you think you need to replace your ecu?

Also, Ecmlink can run the GM MAF, SD, or us the stock MAF. By default you will have everything you need to run the stock MAF, the GM MAF requires an adaptor and a few settings changes within ecmlink, same when running SD.

If I were you, I would send my ecu in to get checked, and have diagnostics run on it to verify that it is within good operation standards.
 
Troubleshoot that refers to the versions before v3 just FYI, that was one of the big changes with v3 the ability to use any injector.

Well I guess things have changed LOL. I have v3 lite but they still needed my injector size when I got it a couple years ago. Sorry about the misinformation OP haha.
 
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