1. No boost/vac leaks. No Exhaust leaks.
2. Mechanical Timing is correct.
3. Base timing is at 5° BTDC verified with a timing light.
4. Plugs are NGK BPR6ES gaped at .028" Not sure what brand/size the wires are off the top of my head (probably crappy)
5. Engine is fresh. Does not burn anything. Less than 1k miles. See profile for specifics.
6. 1G, rebuilt throttle body, no leaks, properly adusted TPS and BISS. Proper Slack in cable
7. Ross 8.3:1 compression ratio forged pistons.
8. Sensors all seem to work well.
9. No DTCs
10 Electrical system seems good
11. Base fuel pressure is 43.5, verified by mechanical gauge on Aeromotive AFPR. Wally 255, FIC 950s
12. AEM wideband seems to log correctly.
13. 93oct 10% Ethonal

Okay guys. I'm 50 miles away from my car during the week so I don't have any way of tweaking it until the weekend. But it gives me some time to review the logs.

The last time I had my car out, I grabbed a few logs to try to get this thing dialed in. Boost is currently around 22-24psi, internally gated, on an FP HTA73 Green. Well, as you can see in my log, I'm getting a fair amount of knock retard in the upper RPM band. I did not take this log to 7500 RPM as my CEL came on because I was knocking, so I let off. I didn't have a whole lot of time to mess with the car, so I drove it home and parked it. My first plan of action is to go to a one step colder plug, and get a new of ignition wires. I also plan to pull a few degrees timing up top to get rid of the knock. I'm hoping the colder plugs will help a little with the knock. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Or will I have to deal with low timing up top? I really want to see what I can get out of this turbo before having to go to corn. I was originally planning to take the boost higher, but now that I'm seeing knock, I don't know if it will be worth it if I have to pull a bunch of timing? I know I have more work to do on this tune, but any advice/suggestions along they way would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Shawn

I will say this, aside from the knock, and sluggish spool (I will work in that next), this car feels great! Once the boost comes on, it pulls like a raped ape. I had to learn to be careful as I found myself bouncing off the limiter, since I wasn't expecting it to climb that fast!

can't pull up your log on my computer for some reason, but it sounds like you might have to pull some timming up time, or maybe add a little more fuel

Hmm. I don't know why you can't see it? AF/R is between 10:1 and 11:1 (needs polishing, I know)

windows 8 and all there stupid app things and I don't have the right one. af/r sounds fine, what is your ignition timming when you start knocking

5047 RPM, 0° KnockRet 9.9° Timing, AFR 10.1:1
5216 RPM, 2.8° KnockRet, 7.1° Timing, AFR 10.3:1
5814 RPM, 1.8° KnockRet, 10.3° Timing, AFR 10.8:1
5896 RPM, 3.9° KnockRet, 9.2° Timing, AFR 11:1
6117 RPM, 2.8° KnockRet, 11.3° Timing, AFR 11:1
6098 RPM, 6.7° KnockRet, 7.5° Timing, AFR 11.1:
6345 RPM, 5.6° KnockRet, 9.6° Timing, AFR 11:1

man I wish I could see your actual log.. on a side note how do you like your green. been thinking about running one internally gated as well? id say try the plugs and pull a little bit of timming. remember its not really low if your car likes it and stil makes good power

I love this turbo. Boost is a little late (~20psi in third by 4250), but I haven't touched any timing down low yet, so I feel there is room for improvement. I seem to hold 22-24 PSI pretty well with just a manual boost controller. If I can get this knock taken care of, I will raise the boost, but I think I might have to preload the wastegate arm to get more out if the internal gate. Otherwise I might bite the bullet and go external. My goal is to see how much power this little bastard can dish out on 93. I'd like to stay on 93, with no meth or water.

DSMLink is showing ~375hp +/-15 & ~350tq

what are you running for a o2 housing?

dsm-freak said:

what are you running for a o2 housing?

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Stock, lightly ported to match the turbine housing. FP manifold. Ceramic coated manifold, o2 housing, and turbine housing. Bolt on galore

I cant see your DA table to see what your timing map looks like.

TalonSpeed said:

I cant see your DA table to see what your timing map looks like.

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That's because I'm not running V3

Pull some more timing out on the sliders. When you start knocking its a sudden, weird jump to a very high knock count. Also you may want to check your injectors. If one isnt flowing as much up top that would explain it. Gummed up injector. Your afrs are good for 93 oct. Unless your fmic is not doing its job. I didnt notice IAT in there. If the fmic is dirty and not cooling efficiently this would explain the sudden abrupt rise in knock. Otherwise start dropping timing and check/clean each injector.
Or go old school: Do a pull and at the end while still onthrottle shut the car off, coast to the side of the road and start reading spark plugs. The culprit should stand out. HEhE, itll be the bright white plug!

Besides the timing, I would enable maf clamp function after 2400hz. Plus some more adjustments to the mafcomp to get the o2 and afratioest to line up.

Do u plan on getting the car dyno tuned on 93?

Injectors have less than a thousand miles on them, so they shouldn't be gummed up. I'm really thinking the 6es plugs are playing a decent role in my knock count. Timing will defiantly be pulled. Ambient temps during this log in the mid 70s to low 80s.

One thing I did fail to mention, I was running a more rich mixture prior to this log and I was actually getting more knock (about 7°-8° retard), but I was also running pig rich at just shy of 10:1 at the leanest. Unfortunately I accidentally saved over that log. Though I'm not comfortable going any more lean than 11:1

Yea, you should try some br8es's. Non-projected. See how that treats ya.

coupe_nasty said:

Do u plan on getting the car dyno tuned on 93?

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Eventually, yes.

tlcoolj said:

Besides the timing, I would enable maf clamp function after 2400hz.

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Can you explain why? I don't feel I'm close enough to the 2g MAF limit to need that function.

tlcoolj said:

Plus some more adjustments to the mafcomp to get the o2 and afratioest to line up.

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I agree. I ran some real quick math and plugged a number in, smoothed it out, and then left it. Mainly to get my boostest and actual boost to line up. However, I should probably double check my idle tune. I dialed it in near perfect, but that was on a smaller turbo and stock exhaust manifold.

Looking at the maf comp setting in your log you're upper hz limit that you can adjust is 2400. In your log, it's the 2400hz mark where your actual afr starts to go lean. Enabling maf clamp and adjusting the ve table should get you more fuel up there and get them to line up.

As i'm sure you know adjusting the mafcomp by the map is only good for the 5000-6000 range; 2400hz in your case. Which your setting are really good in that range.. everything lines up nice there. I personally prefer to use the WB to adjust mafcomp since you are not limited to the 5000-6000 rpm range. It will help dial in the other hz ranges at wot.

tlcoolj said:

I personally prefer to use the WB to adjust mafcomp since you are not limited to the 5000-6000 rpm range. It will help dial in the other hz ranges at wot.

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I'm not familiar with this method? I'll have to look into it.

T is for TURBO said:

I'm not familiar with this method? I'll have to look into it.

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maftcalibrationbywbo2 [ECMTuning - wiki]

In a nut shell, log wbfactor.. and use it's suggestion for WOT calibration. example, 7.55 second mark. 1200hz airflow, wbfactor is -8.1%. go to the 1200hz section in your mafcomp and take off 8%... 1600hz mark is -10.2% off, 2000hz -6.2%.

Cool! thanks man! It sure sounds easy enough, I'll give that a try!