Once again sorry for being so obtuse but you have to have seen where I was coming from.
I'm actually off to work till 7 but if you get me the names of the books I will order them tonight.

Im glad you see this in the best interest of the build man, You made a mature decision and now you have a new start. Your goal is attainable now, you can still pull off a fast car Best of luck with the build bro, we support you !!

Kudos to Gabytech for sticking out and being a supporter even through all this being called a hater, where are all those people now The experienced man is still here to help

Thanks Phantom. The difference between those who called me out and me, is I'm also currently building a RWD DSM unlike the rest of them so I knew what I was talking about, plus Ive been involved with real race car teams and personally know a few chassis builders with world record cars under their fabrication belts and have been at their shops when they building roll cages and chassis.. Eventhough his project is not my style that wasn't my main concern, it always was his safety..

DSM's 4Life.. I'm going to search around in Amazon a few books specialized in racing chassis and suspension, I'll let you know as soon as I know which books to recommend..

what do you think about a 2jz swap?

Did a quick search and found this build thread. It's a bit different from this one in that he is basically building a tube chassis and hanging 1G Eclipse body panels on it, but sill gives you an idea of the framework (and shows why my design is not correct).

No matter what engine you decide to go with it still won't be a cheap built, remember you are taking a FWD/AWD OEM chassis and having it RWD, so the fab itself will be expensive... Cutting the front end completely was a big mistake, but what's done it's done. I'm sorry to say it, but you would be better off throwing the already built cage and starting over. Your best option is to remove the OEM frame rail and build a tube frame rail front to back like a muscle car, weld the front end suspension you bought to the front end frame rail and weld a 12pt cage to the frame rail, also been you cut the firewall you need a dashbar now. The right side door bar where its welded to the floor need to be redone, you can't join it like you did, it need to be a bar welded from the main hoop all the way to the floor/frame rail without that interruption you did. That wont hold in case of an accident. I strongly recommend not using the OEM AWD rear end, that rear end wasn't made for RWD applications and I said before you will blow it into pieces really quick cause it aint made to hold RWD power. You can use a 8.8 Ford rear end, but still you need to open the rear wheel wells to be able to fit wider wheels needed to transfer the RWD power to the pavement correctly. Whatever you decide to do, it's up to you, but I strongly recommend you thinking twice about getting into such project, like I said numerous times it won't be cheap, and excuse my blunt words, but you don't have the skills or knowledge to diy fabricate such a chassis. I strongly recommend you to have the chassis fab done by a race car chassis builder. Please take in my words not as a way to bring you down, but as a fellow racer giving you the best possible advice. If it was me I would just throw away that chassis, and look for a RWD chassis like a Miata or a Corolla and then swap whatever engine you decide, that way you'll save a lot of fab nightmare and $$ taking in a project which its already RWD from the factory, basically all you will be doing will be an engine swap which requires less fabrication and less headaches...

I have been watching this thread for a while now and i share the sentiments of gabytech completely. Being in the same shoes as he is building a rwd 2g i can tell you that it is not easy or cheap, and im doing all my own fab work / welding. Here are a few pics of my current setup that should help give you some ideas. I am not going the sfi route as 8.50's are the goal for this car as it is also a "budget" minded build. With that being said i do have some extra bars added that are not required for the simple fact of saftey.







The car is still being worked on and more bars still need to be added but that gives you a good idea of the road you need to head down.

If you have any questions feel free to get ahold of me.

Also another book to add to your collection is an NHRA rule book or sfi book depending on what route you take.

Turboking15 nice setup.. Nice to see other fellow DSMers doing RWD 4G63 conversion.. Basically you project is similar to mine except Im going to be stock chassis or unibody which mean the complete front end will be left untouched and the rear frame rails are only going to be modified to fit wider tires. Im planning on going 7seconds territory so a 25.1 cage will ne a must on my car.. Hope to see you at next year shootout which I plan on racing, maybe we ca get a friendly match..

Thanks for the kind words, any pictures of youre progress gaby? Ive been following your build thread but havent seen any updates in a while.

turboking15 said:

Thanks for the kind words, any pictures of youre progress gaby? Ive been following your build thread but havent seen any updates in a while.

Click to expand...

I just moved back to FL two months ago, and it wasnt a cheap move. The project was put on hold briefly. Im planning on going back to PR around Aug to get it ready to ship it to FL. I plan on taking it to Jerry Bickel race cars around Nov-Dec to have the 25.1 cage built.. Anyone who have followed my built knows Im going full out race car built with the Eclipse, no expenses spared... My cousin is a hot rod fabricator, so he'll finish the fabrication but the cage will be built by a high name chassis industry builder. The point been will be resale value, if a times come I cant race anymore and have to sell it I can ask more for the car just cause it will have a Jerry Bickel tag welded to the cage. That will make a difference between selling it for 60k than 25k just because of who built the cage. Everything else will be done in house.

Woah...

That has to be one of the most ill-conceived, dangerous attempts at DIY chassis work I've ever seen. And you want to put nearly a ton of engine/trans on that? To deal with the torque of even a stock BBF?

This isn't being a hater or to be rude, this is an appeal to safety concerns from a fellow enthusiast to another. Please for you're sake, as well as any passengers/racers or random folks on the road. Scrap this car, take that money and put it towards a new shell. Take that to a reputable chassis builder.

You will maim/kill yourself and possibly innocent bystanders with this thing.

There is a high likelihood of losing your legs in even a low speed altercation.

Why do I see this "car" folding in half in the event of even a small collision. Is that square tube welded to the spiderweb you're calling a firewall? If so how much deflection occurs when the vehicle is raised and lowered. Inches i guessing

Please tell me you won't be putting other people at risk by driving that hoopty on the streets. One pothole and its going to snap in half.

I'm clearly not finished as for body flex I can pick the front wheels off the ground with my hand. I will draw a diagram up to show where the support bars will be.

Doesn't matter. That is not how you do this. Start over with a new shell, and have someone with experience do this, stop being stubborn.

At least make those frame rails continuous one-piece from the front all the way to the back.

DSM's 4 life said:

I'm clearly not finished as for body flex I can pick the front wheels off the ground with my hand. I will draw a diagram up to show where the support bars will be.

Click to expand...

all it would have taken was about 3 hrs of searching to find a better way to build that...... whatever that is. you will kill yourself and put others in danger. DO NOT RUN THE CAR WITH THAT. no amount of reinforcing will make that pass Tech at any legit track.

2JZ swap would be the tits! Has anyone done that?

On second thought...why not just buy a Supra....

91-GS said:

At least make those frame rails continuous one-piece from the front all the way to the back.

Click to expand...

That won't fix this.

DSM's 4 life said:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Click to expand...

See above.

what makes my front end different than this one simply bolted to the car?

DSM's 4 life said:

what makes my front end different than this one simply bolted to the car?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Click to expand...

For starters? The firewall and frame/unibody are still intact, there is no square tube construction aside from the bottom of the rad support and engine cradle, etc.

That car has been properly front-halved. Yours has all the structural integrity of a cardboard box.

Your work is going to get someone killed. No track will ever cert you to run. It would not pass inspection either under NY Section 79.21(D) and if you think about putting this on the road I would be tempted to give the state a call.

This counts as special construction and you will need to get an application package and examination. Hint: they will fail you and the car will then officially be the paperweight we are telling you it is.

You have no clue what you are doing and refuse to listen to those who do.

DSM's 4 life said:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Click to expand...

To best describe the difference I refer to the pic below.