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1g A/C hardline fitting size

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GSLENK

10+ Year Contributor
1,416
52
May 25, 2011
DC, Maryland
For those of you that had removed your ac... (And I know there are plenty of ya :sneaky: )

What size are the fittings on the drivers side? I'm tempted to fab my own ac line because it is being a pure PITA.

Also can I remove the machined block junction just after the condenser exit? IE. make a line starting at the 2" long exit of the condenser, and go "straight" (with a few bends of course) to the rest of the hard-line where it connects behind the drivers side headlight?

Until then I will bend my line till it kinks. I dont have much room to raise the fmic, I want to keep the crash bar stock looking and this seems to be the only way, any further and I loose the top center section of it completely.
 
I should have this info somewhere on my computer at home.

For the condenser, why stick with stock? I replaced my stock condenser with a smaller aftermarket parallel flow condenser and fabricated my own A/C lines and couldn't be happier. Plenty of room for my ETS 3.5" IC without having to hack my bumper.

I don't know if you can see this thread, but it has some of the pictures from my build:

How to fit a 3.5" IC with air conditioning - Colorado DSM Club Forums
 
I should have this info somewhere on my computer at home.

For the condenser, why stick with stock? I replaced my stock condenser with a smaller aftermarket parallel flow condenser and fabricated my own A/C lines and couldn't be happier. Plenty of room for my ETS 3.5" IC without having to hack my bumper.

I don't know if you can see this thread, but it has some of the pictures from my build:

How to fit a 3.5" IC with air conditioning - Colorado DSM Club Forums


That's a great idea! I really like what you did there. I would also be interested in part numbers, but even better, specific vendors. Its hard to find an organized place for aeroquip stuff. (haven't looked too hard, but their list of dealers isn't all that nice)
 
Thanks. It was a lot of work and I wasn't even sure it would all work out, but I'm on my second summer and the A/C is still working great.

Give me a day or two to get all my notes organized. I kept all my receipts intending on writing something up, but when no one seemed interested locally after I made that post, I kinda just dropped it.

All of the information below is based on what I found for my car (92 Talon AWD with ABS). I know non-ABS cars are slightly different in where there are disconnects/fittings in the stock lines.

All of the work I did was concentrated toward the front of the car. I basically got rid of the stock condenser and drier and replaced them with aftermarket units and then adapted Aeroquip lines to the stock lines.
First some background information on thread sizes for standard US a/c systems
#6 = 5/8" - 18 thread with 5/16" tube size
#8 = 3/4" - 16 thread with 13/32" tube size
#10 = 7/8" - 14 thread with 1/2" tube size

Condenser:
I purchased a universal parallel flow condenser that was 12" x 14". This is a little less than half the stock size, but parallel flow condensers are supposed to be more efficient than the stock type piccolo based condenser.

The one I got was purchased from Arizona Mobile Air - ACKITS.com Automotive Air Conditioning Parts & Equipment.

Part number is 12-0651C

Link: ACKITS.com Automotive Air Conditioning Parts & Equipment.: 12-0651C - Parallel Flow Condenser (12 X 14)

This condenser has a #8 male insert oring fitting for the high side (output of the compressor) and a #6 male fitting for the output of the condenser.

Drier:
I purchased a standard o-ring receiver drier and mounted it near the condenser basically sitting on the front radiator support. This made routing the output of the condenser easy as it was 2 simple 45 degree fittings. The fittings on the drier are #6 male input and output which match the output of the condenser I bought (and most aftermarket ones).

The one I got was purchased from Nostalgic Air Parts

Part number 4-1001

Link: Shorty Standard O-ring Receiver Drier - Receiver Driers

I did try to order an inline drier from the same place (part number 4-1007), but they were out of stock and didn't seem to know when they were getting more in. The one I got required more intricate mounting brackets, but I'm happy with how the hose routing worked.

Lines:
For the lines and fittings I used Eaton/Aeroquip's EZ clip system of hoses and fittings. The advantage to this system is you don't need a hydraulic crimp tool to make your lines. The tools are simple hand tools that are even pretty inexpensive. I downloaded a catalog from Eaton that had a listing of all the fittings and lines. I'll see if I can find a link for that later. The key to making this all work, though was Eaton's special kits called a lifesaver kit. It's designed to adapt any A/C system to use their hose and fittings in case you need to do a repair on a line/hose without having to replace the entire line. They are aluminum and designed to be brazed in, but I was unable to find anyone local who had aluminum brazing experience (even the local radiator shop had no idea). I ended up getting mine tig welded and it seems to be holding up well.

Getting back on track, the input to the condenser (output from the compressor) was the easiest part. On my car there is a disconnect for the stock line right behind the drivers headlight next to the radiator. The thread size on this fitting is 3/4" - 16 male insert oring, which happens to match perfectly with standard US #8 thread sizes.
The condenser input was a little more tricky only because the input and output of the condenser are on the same sides. I had to do a 180 degree fitting to get this to work as I mounted the condenser with the input/output facing the passenger side. I purchased a 180 degree #8 female insert oring beadlock fitting and cut off the beadlock portion. I then had a #8 Eaton/Aeroquip lifesaver fitting welded on so I could use the Aeroquip hose.
The beadlock fitting was purchased from Arizona Mobile air (ACKITS.com Automotive Air Conditioning Parts & Equipment.).

Part number 35-B1932.
Link: ACKITS.com Automotive Air Conditioning Parts & Equipment.: 35-B1932 - Female-O-Ring #8 180Deg

I also had a disconnect on the stock line near the fuse box on the passenger side. This thread size is 9/16" - 18 male insert oring. This does not match anything from what I could find. This was the more difficult side.
I had to cut the stock line and weld a #6 Eaton lifesaver kit on the line. The tube size does not exactly match the fitting input, but since it was being welded on it didn't matter much in my application.
I also went ahead and installed an inline filter in this area as some added protection in case my compressor decides to fail.
The filter I purchased was also from Arizona Mobile Air (ACKITS.com Automotive Air Conditioning Parts & Equipment.).
Part number was 13128TSI.
Link: ACKITS.com Automotive Air Conditioning Parts & Equipment.: 35-B1932 - Female-O-Ring #8 180Deg

This filter was really nice and included multiple adapters to fit to any size hose. I had no problems installing this on the stock line. The input to the filter was where I had a small piece of stock tube cut and then welded the #6 lifesaver kit to it. This side gets connected to the output of the drier. The output of the filter attached to the stock line that goes to the evaporator. No welding required as the filter is designed to connect to an aluminum tube.

Ok, I'll list part numbers for the Eaton/Aeroquip stuff later as this is getting insanely long. Hopefully this makes sense so far.
 
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