Was kind of assuming letting it get up to operating temp was implied...

There's no 'attach telepathy' option for this forum.

phunny said:

If you're not completely stupid why do you keep asking about the throttle body? Could you explain how that has anything to due with a compression test?

Click to expand...

maybe you should learn to read before making a stupid comment. I said, I've heard compression tests give better numbers at WOT(Wide Open Throttle.) If I said throttle body then it was a mistake.

phunny said:

If you're not completely stupid why do you keep asking about the throttle body? Could you explain how that has anything to due with a compression test?

Click to expand...

yeah, maybe you should go back and just look over everything. I'm going to start an argument. I'm just simply saying, that you see better compression numbers at (WOT) than you do at closed throttle.

ShadyDoins said:

Did you do a dry or wet compression test? Also did you bring the motor up to operating temp before testing? A wet test might be able to tell you if it's the rings that are the problem. They probably are though because all of the cylinders are reading low.

You shouldn't have broken in the motor without the turbo. The best way to break a motor in is right after first start you set the boost close to what you will want to run and then do a couple 3rd gear pulls from low rpm to redline and let the motor rev itself down after to clear debris. The first pull or two it will probably smoke but after a couple pulls the smoke will go away. You then change the oil and drive easy for the rest of the break in miles, and never break a motor in on synthetic oil just incase you didn't know.

Click to expand...

dry compression test, and it was operating temps. 125 across all cylinders. unless there is more than a 10% difference in cylinders then the rings should be fine, right? So, I plan on doing a leak down test, because I believe I've broke an oil control ring.

Time for another rebuild.

Not an expert just my .02 cents. I think its a safe bet to say that its not the valve seals because you have roughly the same compression across the cylinders. I'm agreeing with the guy saying its the rings installed incorrectly.

96 GSX LOVE said:

Not an expert just my .02 cents. I think its a safe bet to say that its not the valve seals because you have roughly the same compression across the cylinders. I'm agreeing with the guy saying its the rings installed incorrectly.

Click to expand...

I don't think the rings were installed incorrectly. If they were, then it would havve been smoking from the start. It has 6k miles, and was running slightly lean. Never really got on it though. 125 compression is the same on all cylinders. I kept the stock PCV Valve, could that be it? I took the oil cap off and the dip stick off, and don't hear and whooshing, or smoking out of the oil cap. So, any idea?

A leakdown test will tell you exactly what's wrong.

95TalonOwner said:

A leakdown test will tell you exactly what's wrong.

Click to expand...

Well, I'll post back results asap. I'm pretty annoyed at all the money that was thrown into this thing, but I guess that what happens when you get into this type of game.

Just wait until you get all this straightened out and then your trans takes a dump on the second pull you do. That's when the real fun begins haha. I knocked on wood though so if that does happen I didn't jinx you.

Your timing being set wrong could be the cause of low compression but the oil consumption is what concerns me.

silvreclips said:

Your timing being set wrong could be the cause of low compression but the oil consumption is what concerns me.

Click to expand...

Timing belt is set right. I though it was a possibility with the way it was misfiring, but it checks out good. The plugs just want fire right. They're getting soaked in oil. I don't understand how compression is so low after a fresh build. It doesn't make sense. It ran fine at 125 with no issues. Unless I have a faulty compression gauge, then i have no idea why it would be low, besides the fact that I done it with the throttle closed.

Guys, I know I said Piston 1 was bad, but I was wrong. It has a few "pre detonation" marks on it. I took it to a machine shop that builds racing motors for some smaller Arca Teams, and does a little bit or work with Jack Rousch. They said the pistons looked great, and those small detonation marks wouldn't hurt it. I'm taking their word. I DO KNOW what the problem is now though. The piston to wall clearance is about .003, so it's within spec. Turned out to be that the guy I had build it, didn't put the RINGS in the car that I had given him. He put standard sized rings, on .020 pistons. I don't even have to explain that one. All this work over the wrong size rings. Oh, and not to mention, he didn't even match the rods with the pistons, nor the cylinders. For example, he had rod 3, matched up with piston 2. They were marked when they were balanced, and apparently he's not smart enough to figure that out.

and before anyone asks, I have no idea how the piston one received those detonation marks on it.