Doing a motor swap and figured I would change the clutch out as well. I'm looking at the ACT 2100. Is it a good clutch? Also I need to know, whats the difference between street disc, street solid disc, sprung 4 puck, unsprung 4 puck, sprung 6 puck, and unsprung 6 puck? My ultimate goal is maybe 300-350 hp to the wheels and a DD for the most part. Input?

You want an ACT 2100 with the street disc for those goals. I would also replace the flywheel with either Fidanza or ACT.

Street disc = Full face clutch with a sprung center section (smooth engagement, predictable, etc)
Street solid = Full face clutch, unsprung (I would imagine a little chattery)

When you're talking about 'pucked' clutches it means how many friction surfaces there are on it. The fewer the friction surfaces the more snappy it's going to be, and if it's unsprung you can expect it to be worse. If you're going to be dumping the clutch at the track some people do prefer unsprung clutches because you don't have to worry about popping a spring out. It doesn't sound like you'll have to worry about any of that.

Good luck.

Perfect, thanks tons for the prompt reply! Looks like that's the one I'll be ordering!

If you are AWD you may want to consider stepping up to the 2600 with the street disc. Also, clutch holding capacity is based off of torque, I believe the ACT 2100 with the street disc is rated at 330wtq. I run the ACT 2100 at over 350wtq but I'm very light and FWD. It's really just going to depend on your driving habits.

I am AWD. However when I hit my goal of 300-350whp it'll probably be a little while. Right now I only have a few bolt ons (punishment FMIC, radiator, td05 turbo, bov, exhaust) and am hoping the 2100 will work for me! I'm just on a pretty big budget but don't wanna get a bad clutch or something super cheap and crappy.

Get a southbend clutch instead.

2600 with a street disc is an awesome combination. Still get the street-ability of a stock clutch but with some insane holding power.

If you haven't already committed to buying it somewhere let me know and I can get you some special pricing on one.

Maximal said:

2600 with a street disc is an awesome combination. Still get the street-ability of a stock clutch but with some insane holding power.

If you haven't already committed to buying it somewhere let me know and I can get you some special pricing on one.

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I haven't purchased one yet. I was looking at getting one from STM because they seem to be a reputable vendor, but would appreciate a better price! Would you like me to PM you about it?

MJcanada said:

Get a southbend clutch instead.

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I second this. I love my South Bend SS/TZ. Same price as an ACT 2600/Street disk combo with better street manners, higher torque rating, and no reports of random failure.

But if your heart is set on an ACT, I'd suggest a 2600 with 6-puck unsprung disk. Engagement will be harsh, spline life will take a hit, and chattering will be noticeable. But it will hold power and won't fall apart.

ehc14 said:

I haven't purchased one yet. I was looking at getting one from STM because they seem to be a reputable vendor, but would appreciate a better price! Would you like me to PM you about it?

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PM sent.

Save up and get a Quarter Master twin disc. Check with Maperformance. For 1200 bux, you will love yourself. You get a chromoly flywheel with it too.

You might think you are saving money with an ACT but you will not save as much as you think. ACT clutch and flywheel combo is about 700-800 bux. If you get the ACT 2600 pressure plate, it is a pain for daily driving because the pressure is too hard. The hard pressure can kill your clutch master cylinder pretty fast. If you have to buy a few replacement oem clutch master cylinder or some good brand, it can add up pretty fast to the price of a twin disc. If you are running a 7 bolts, you will risk messing up your thrust bearing. I high recommend inspecting all ACT clutches. Apparently ACT quality control is not perfect. They sold me an ACT 2600 clutch kit that had a broken diaphragm. I did not notice a provlem until i had the clutch in the car. ACT replaced the pressure plate for me buy it still cost me 35 bux for shipping and 50 bux for oil. The time I wasted doing the clutch jobs twice, going through the bs return process, and waiting for a replacement made me more upset than the lost of money.


My suggesting is to run a stock(Oem Mitsubishi) pressure plate with a 6 pucks ceramic or metallic. It will hold 350tq all day long and is very easy to drive. I made 530hp+ and 365tq+ with this combo. You can get an Act clutch 6 pucks and reuse your stock pressure plate if it is not too bad. An ACT 2100 with a 6 pucks will work too.


In my opinion, you should never put a Fidanza aluminum flywheel on your car unless you want to have issue. The flywheel bolt holes can oblong and eventually cause the flywheel bolts to snap. In my opinion, the aluminum is too soft two take the torque that a 4g63t can produce. This is a very common issue.

killercolt said:

Save up and get a Quarter Master twin disc. Check with Maperformance. For 1200 bux, you will love yourself.

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That is WAY over kill for his power goals of 300-350 HP nevermind the fact he said it will be a while before he even reaches his goal. Also I'm pretty sure the first time he is in stop and go traffic he will not only hate himself for his decicion to get a twin but you also for recommending it.

Give Tim at TMZperformance a call. He will get you set up with the perfect clutch for YOUR car.

You'll be good with the 2600 like they've said. I got the 2900 with street disc and their streetlite flywheel (I know over kill) but I haven't really had issues wth it much besides my clutch master going out. Shifts awesome.

I would also look into a CFDF. If you want it to shift like butter and hold all the power but not be as stiff as a 2600, the CFDF is 2500lb and will do the job. It is not for people who like to drag race though.

ECH14, I see you are a 1995, and you are going to do a swap, you staying 7 bolt or 6 bolt?

If you are going to stay 7 bolt, would you let us know if you are using a saddle main block, or going to the split thrust block? Also check and post what your crankshaft end play is.

Good lord, there is absolutely no need for a Quarter Master twin of any sort in his car.

300-350HP can be done with a SBC SS-Series 2200# pressure plate and any choice of disk or an ACT 2100 street disk kit (MB1-HDSS). If going the SBC route, if it is a daily driver with little racing/launching/abuse, I would do a TZ-Series full face Kevlar sprung-hub clutch disk. If it will be seeing moderate abuse/launching, I would do the TZ/B Kevlar/Ceramic dual friction disk; and if it is being predominantly used for launching/having ALOT of fun, go for the full B-Series Ceramic sprung-hub full-face segmented-friction disk. If you are having issues with selecting the proper clutch, simply email ([email protected]) or PM me.

Don't forget to use an OEM TOB (I like the SBC one as well, but I still prefer to use OEM) with new clutch fork, pivot ball, TOB clip, and check/service your clutch hydraulics (master/slave/lines).

If your goal is going to be over 400WHP, then we should be looking at the ACT 2600 kits or SBC SS-X 2700# pressure plates with a similar selection of clutch disk friction materials listed above.

As for SBC options, here is a fast list:

Pressure Plate:
HD - 1900#
SS - 2200#
SS-X - 2700#

Clutch disk hub:
SS-kits normally come with an Exedy 4-spring hub.
SS-X kits normally come with an Exedy Racing 2-spring/4 bushing hub.
Solid hub (additional cost)

Clutch disk friction materials:
*Organic (O-Series)
*Organic/Feramic (OFE-Series)
*Kevlar (TZ-Series)
*Kevlar/Feramic (TZ/FE-Series)
*Kevlar/Ceramic (TZ/B-Series)
*Ceramic (B-Series)
*Ceramic 6-Puck (DXD-B)
*Feramic 6-Puck (DXD-F)

On all clutch kits utilitzing a Kevlar friction surface, I media blast the pressure plate for faster break-in and initial bedding of the Kevlar friction material. If you are using a TZ-Series full Kevlar disk, I recommend media blasting the flywheel friction surface (not necessary on Fidanza replacement surfaces) to help with break-in.

Run a 0.610-0.612" flywheel step height, and even if it is brand new, have it measured!

Pressure plate bolts 22-24 ft/lbs, flywheel bolts 100 ft/lbs w/ Loctite Red threadlocker. All fasteners hand-tightened in star pattern confirmed that everything is seating properly against their mating surfaces (pressure plate to flywheel; flywheel to crank flange), and then torque in star pattern to torque spec.


Easy as that!

Damn, lots of information to take in! So do NOT get a twin disk, gotcha! Yeah, I really only want like 350hp for a fun streetable daily that I can take to Bandimere every once in a while just to see what it puts down. Perhaps if I start getting really ambitious I can get a new higher rated clutch down the road. I appreciate all of the responses! I'm starting to lean towards something more in the 2600 area.

BogusSVO said:

ECH14, I see you are a 1995, and you are going to do a swap, you staying 7 bolt or 6 bolt?

If you are going to stay 7 bolt, would you let us know if you are using a saddle main block, or going to the split thrust block? Also check and post what your crankshaft end play is.

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In regards to this... I had a 96 Talon TSi with the stock 7 bolt that the brakes went out on (booster lost vacuum) and I wrecked. That car got frame damage. I found a 95 TSi AWD with a seized motor and my engine only had 96,xxx and was running perfectly so I plan on swapping the two. Plus I've really been wanting an AWD over the FWD Figured I'd change the clutch while its out!

And I've heard both sprung and unsprung, which should I really get? I'm leaning more towards sprung honestly due to the fact that I want this to be a very street capable car that shifts smoothly as I will be driving it to work and other places daily!

Some guys have had issues with springs popping out of the disks. I have never had this issue. I have seen more failures on my cars and friends cars from running unpsrung disks. All act products. Ive seen the center splines strip out on 350hp cars from normal driving. I will be running sprung disks from now on till I have a reason not too.

When i got my first clutch i went with 2600 street disk/ with heavy duty pressure plate. If your going to be a daily the 6 puck i wont get. Thats why i didn't get it because i was a daily driver.

DSM_GSX01 said:

When i got my first clutch i went with 2600 street disk/ with heavy duty pressure plate. If your going to be a daily the 6 puck i wont get. Thats why i didn't get it because i was a daily driver.

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I dailyed a six puck unsprung for a year. It pulled out just like a street disk. There was literally no difference in engagement. I am going to be running a 4 puck sprung everyday. The puck style disks dont last as long as a solid disk.

I've been running the last 2 race seasons and some street and I'm loving the 2600 ,street disc combo from act. I'm around 300hp and race on slicks

What clutch and flywheel setup you would go with a 550 600 hp car.

LONEWOLF01 said:

What clutch and flywheel setup you would go with a 550 600 hp car.

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SBC SS-X pressure plate with TZ/B disk for street with some track time, or the B-series full ceramic disk for predominantly race usage or heavy abuse.

twicks69 said:

SBC SS-X pressure plate with TZ/B disk for street with some track time, or the B-series full ceramic disk for predominantly race usage or heavy abuse.

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What's the weight of the SBC pressure plates? My older 2100 is kinda heavy feeling. Or would all singles basically be around same weight?

MJcanada said:

What's the weight of the SBC pressure plates? My older 2100 is kinda heavy feeling. Or would all singles basically be around same weight?

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they are all about the same weight