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What did you do to your DSM today?

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ryztriumph said:
Looks smooth! I wanted a black one, but you get whatever comes cheapest! I've had mine for about 2 years on 15-18psi and never had any problems. Of course, 15psi on a t25 is nothing to brag on, and neither is 18 on a 14b, but it gets me around.



I'm really liking how that came out. Very nice! Here is mine I finished today. I am planning on bolting it up tomorrow! Red wrinkle ftw.

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Click to expand...

The VHT wrinkle coat is definitely great, I use it myself on a shaved VC.

I will warn you about one thing, though. Try to NEVER get oil on it, especially when filling during a change. You will just never be able to get it out of all those little crevices and it will sit there, be shiny, and mock you for the rest of your days.
 
What are the build specs on the trans Chris?

I got my car started, the battery died since the car has sat since February so it was sitting on the charger for the last 24hrs. Surprised to see a pulse... Now that I know it starts (LOL) I'll be cleaning everything up and then start it to warm up the oil for a nice fresh 4.6qts of Shell Rotella 10w-30. Then it's off to the exhaust shop to get something fabricated to clear the tubular subframe I installed over the course of the last few weeks...

attachment.php


ITS ALIVE! ;)

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:dsm:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
gofer said:
What are the build specs on the trans Chris?

I got my car started, the battery died since the car has sat since February so it was sitting on the charger for the last 24hrs. Surprised to see a pulse... Now that I know it starts (LOL) I'll be cleaning everything up and then start it to warm up the oil for a nice fresh 4.6qts of Shell Rotella 10w-30. Then it's off to the exhaust shop to get something fabricated to clear the tubular subframe I installed over the course of the last few weeks...

attachment.php


ITS ALIVE! ;)

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:dsm:
Click to expand...

Dat subframe
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I have to go through the notes again, as the plan changed a few times while discussing the set up it was going on and my goals with Trevor.. who is extremely helpful and possesses a depth of knowledge on these boxes matched by few.. heres what I remember off the top of my head:

Has all the goodies you would get in a Stage 4 AWD, but converted for FWD so no center diff and he billed it as a stage 2 as a result
Machined my Quaife FWD LSD to use the taller final drive
HD Gearset with the tallest 3/4/5 they felt would put up with the heat from my expected torque (500+) at very high rpm on extended pulls

Now I just have to be patient, let everything break in and then creep up on the power. :D
 
Last edited by a moderator:
LOL

What oil did Trevor recommend you protect it with? Sounds like a solid build, I've loved my Shep 4 since the day of purchase, wish I could have gotten it billed as a FWD, just a little unsure of the oil I was told to fill it with.

:dsm:
 
Ground down the required spot on the driver side motor mount to allow my alt relocation so the belt doesn't rub, shortened one of my waste gate dumps, started to mock up the oil drain for my holset, put the battery in to check my gauges, started to pull the passenger side hub assembly.
 
urbansmoker1 said:
For 600hp 2 qt light weight shockproof 1 qt mt90 as per trevor.
Click to expand...
Was this recent or awhile ago? I bought my Shep in 2010 and was told the same but the more and more research I do it seems the paraffin in the lightweight kills the trans. I want to run what the builder recommends but I'm not sure if it's the right mix or not...

:dsm:
 
gofer said:
Was this recent or awhile ago? I bought my Shep in 2010 and was told the same but the more and more research I do it seems the paraffin in the lightweight kills the trans. I want to run what the builder recommends but I'm not sure if it's the right mix or not...

:dsm:
Click to expand...

Well, I have to look at my notes again. Also consider I'm shooting for well north of 600whp LOL I expect to be making more than 500wtq if that says anything.

So class, show your work: Whats ~500wtq at 10k rpm give you in terms of power? :thumb:

Here's a hint, it's why I am looking at 75 and 80mm Borg turbos for when I reach the limits of this 71, or the shortblock. Whichever comes first, and my money's on the shortblock unfortunately. But at ~4 years i've got my money's worth out of a setup that should never have survived what it has so far anyways.

Or it could just fail on the first pull and then we're at square one again LOL There's theory and practice, as with all things.
 
Jack is the only one that said shockproof kills trans, i asked trevor at shep recently, bought my trans in summer 2012 and double checked this year. Still recommended light weight. It's possible they have made a provision to accommodate for this fluid..
 
Uggh so mad right now on my way to the races when my oil filter housing seperated and un wound the threads........ So I didn't get to race some crappy honduh. And I had to use my second tripple a tow for the year.... Luckly I only had the car running for five seconds with the filter leaking bad.... The only reason I ran it is because my driveway is a huge steep hill. But I added 3 quarts before driving it the 50 feet so I think ill be ok
 
drove by and looked at her in the shop parking lot, rebuild should be finished monday.
 
I went down to the store bought gas and marshmellow and set my beast on fire.

JK but I wanted too.5 chill pills later and i'll be ok, its just gonna be another head swap.
 
urbansmoker1 said:
Jack is the only one that said shockproof kills trans, i asked trevor at shep recently, bought my trans in summer 2012 and double checked this year. Still recommended light weight. It's possible they have made a provision to accommodate for this fluid..
Click to expand...
It's not just Jack, unfortunately. It's every DSM trans builder but Shep, ask Tim Z. (TMZPerformance) and TRE.

I know this is Jacks page but, still, it's what the other big trans builder but Shep also confirm if you run shockproof in your trans.

Trans Oils

From TRE.

REDLINE SHOCKPROOF There are concerns about using REDLINE SHOCKPROOF type gear oils inside manual transmissions. While this is truly an excellent product, it has been found that the heavy Teflon-like particles are quickly centrifuged out of the oil and will build up inside the center diff housing and around the synchronizers and inside of the gearshafts. After several oil changes this build up may block oiling passages inside the gearshafts that lubricate the needle bearings and can reduce the overall effectiveness of the synchronizers, leading to poor shift quality. Also this oil is has too high of a viscosity for winter use. Therefore we do not suggest using SHOCKPROOF in the transmission unless the transmission is to be serviced often or a dog box.
Click to expand...

and a picture.

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To say the least, I'm concerned whether Shep told me to or not. My worry is that this happens and I send it to Shep to diagnose and this shows up, is it covered since it was recommend or do I not put the $4k on the line and just run something else like Diaqueen.

Chris, since you've got a high torque application I recommend you read this and you may change your mind with the recommended.

REDLINE 75W140 NS GL-5 Gear Oil. If your application requires a very slippery gear oil that will keep the gears and bearings from scuffing & spalling in a high torque application you may want to try REDLINE 75W140 NS GL-5 Gear Oil. It's one of the best that we know of but keep in mind that it may be too slippery for the synchros to work effectively at high rpm shifting.

Remember that proper viscosity is important when it comes to splash type lubrication; certain parts require enough viscosity so that the oil get thrown far enough so please check out the viscosity chart and choose an oil for the operation temperatures of your transmission.
Click to expand...

...Back on track with what everyone did to their DSM's today! LOL

:dsm:
 
Thought the consensus was you're not supposed to use gl-5 fluids in the trans, something about the additives being bad for brass components.
 
Found out that i have an electrical issue preventing my car from starting... has a %50 chance of starting.
 
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