the hanger grounds to the tank which grounds to the body which grounds to the neg battery terminal.

If every thing is clean and rust free then there would be no issues with grounding from the manufacturer stand point and its less wire they had to run. Which means lower cost. As far as there concerned as long as it works an doesn't cost a lot of money then it's good.

3kgt2nv said:

the hanger grounds to the tank which grounds to the body which grounds to the neg battery terminal.

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. I am aware of the operation. It would seem like grounding the negative in the hanger with fumes could be problematic. The gas has to corrode the hanger and the ground to some extent and would cause a faulty ground. Is there no storys of a fuel ignition in the rake due to this?

Tank

AndersonsDSM said:

a ground is a ground ...

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Don't just post things because you want to become a proven member. A ground is not just "a ground. If a bad connection is created, your components won't run at all due to an open circuit.it could also cause sparking between the connections, frying components and possible ignition. If the ground is too small it acts as a resistor and limits current. Which lowers voltage. Which might not be great enough to run the components

unless the rubber seal is leaking the chance of the inside of the hanger oxidizing or rusting is pretty low. even on 20 year old cars the hanger usually looks new after you break all the rusted bolts off trying to remove it.

dsmer1 said:

Don't just post things because you want to become a proven member. A ground is not just "a ground. If a bad connection is created, your components won't run at all due to an open circuit.it could also cause sparking between the connections, frying components and possible ignition. If the ground is too small it acts as a resistor and limits current. Which lowers voltage. Which might not be great enough to run the components

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The fuse will blow before anything bad will happen. But, I see what you are asking about and in theory, yes. But it's so infitismly small that it doesn't really take into affect until you build up a ton of rust on the hanger to the point where most people would toss the old one and just buy a new one. Also as mentioned earlier, being inside a gas tank, (gas is a cleaning solvent), the metal wont oxidize.

The current required to run the fuel pump isn't as mush as you think.
Auto Performance Engineering - Walbro fuel pumps specs
According to this, and what pressure you are sending your fuel at, say it's stock, you will only require 8.2 Amps of current with a 12V source.

Hope this helps answer your question!

eDeclpse92 said:

The fuse will blow before anything bad will happen. But, I see what you are asking about and in theory, yes. But it's so infitismly small that it doesn't really take into affect until you build up a ton of rust on the hanger to the point where most people would toss the old one and just buy a new one. Also as mentioned earlier, being inside a gas tank, (gas is a cleaning solvent), the metal wont oxidize.

The current required to run the fuel pump isn't as mush as you think.
Auto Performance Engineering - Walbro fuel pumps specs
According to this, and what pressure you are sending your fuel at, say it's stock, you will only require 8.2 Amps of current with a 12V source.

Hope this helps answer your question!

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thanks for the link. i have rewired my 255lb to run on 14.5v. so my current would roughlfy be 9.24A at roughfly 40psi. i have a 10A fuse inline with the power wire. i do have a good bit of oxidation on my hanger. probily due to what the user mentioned before. but if the ground was not tight 14v would be enough to spark between the electrodes if they were to touch. but for the manifacture it is deffenitly cost effective, like mention before. i just saw a problem with a possible ignition source near flammible materials. plus slinging your car around turns and external forces and loads would not help the torque of thhe ground screw. thanks everybody for their input and opinions!

3kgt2nv said:

the hanger grounds to the tank which grounds to the body which grounds to the neg battery terminal.

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I've always wondered why everyone runs huge cables straight to the battery for the +, but never upgrade the ground.

I have a 4 gauge distribution block that grounds the block, the head, the frame, the ecu. as people delete alot of stuff grounding points can be lost and i have seen cars that have constant issues be from poor grounds or corroded wires

donniekak said:

I've always wondered why everyone runs huge cables straight to the battery for the +, but never upgrade the ground.

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I followed the rewire guide from the guy that did it in his Spyder, and there is in fact a ground wire upgrade involved. In fact, where to ground it was a big thing, because it was different in the Spyder and we didn't have that grounding point in GSTs.

That guide was published like 12 years ago. Not sure about the various kits that you can get now, whether they do the ground too. Maybe that's what you mean

with my rewire kit from stm it came with a ground wire the same guage as the long power wire.