you've sealed the radiator to condenser with aluminum tape yet? That did wonders for my hwy temps. Dropped almost 20 degrees. Also a Stant 170* thermostat but that probably didnt do a whole lot tbh. Im going to run a very thin sheet of metal from the front clip to the lower radiator bracket to do exactly what youve done with plastic. Scoop the air up and force it through. Im surprised your still seeing temps in the 220s(i suppose thats what you really meant). Maybe a new radiator?
Fyi, 220 is not unsafe at all. Youre totally fine at that temp. I didnt like it either though and ideally i would like temps to be 185 constantly , but i dont know if thats possible.
Try sealing every open gap between condenser and rad and let me know how that works for ya. Grab a new tstat just for shits and grins too, might help?

What brand fan is that.

It's also too small. And adding a shroud around the fan would most likely cause overheating at highway speeds. Puller fans should cover most the rad core, then be shrouded otherwise youre recirculating engine bay heat more than pulling fresh in.

After that, fab up some ducting to direct all airflow through each of the cores. That includes all sides and even sealing the bumper to FMIC gap.

You might have other problems elsewhere and I'll reply back a little later

If you are down to buy sheet metal and have spare time to do a project, there are a bunch of theads about ducting and pictures of what other people have done.

I personally have plumbers pipe insulation stuffed between the intercooler and the rad support, then up top between the headlights. Then I used a sheet of metal and made two scoops to direct air flow from the fog light holes into the front of the radiator. My temps rarely ever see above 200* at any driving. Usually at 198*

Some things to go over that you might have overlooked.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/377985-dsm-cooling-system-faq.html

I am struggling with the same issue. I managed to modify the stock main fain to get it back in front of the radiator, and that seemed to help the issue a lot, but still run hot after a while. Ducting helped too. You might want to try water wetter. I also have a vrsf front mount, which means I had to cut around the radiator support. It would be a good idea to seal it up around the inlet and outlet pipes to keep heat from getting in front of the radiator. Stock heat shields on the exhaust manifold will help control the heat and it appears that you might have them in place. I'm starting to believe that part of my problem is under-hood temps. Good luck with the battle... I've been at it for 3 summers.

I still have the stock main fan, and it moves a ton of hot air when I pop the hood after I've made it home. The little fan is just an ebay fan to replace the a/c fan because the stock fan is too big and hits the ic piping. I turn the little fan on with the a/c button. I haven't tried water wetter yet, maybe I should pick some up and see if it helps.

I want to do more ducting, but I don't have a good place to work on my car anymore since moving. I'll try the small things before something more difficult.

I'm running a 180 degree thermostat that I put in last summer at the same time as a new 2 row aluminum radiator. The new radiator helped some, but after 15 minutes on the highway, the temps creep up. In the winter, the temps are fine

There is some brown/black crap in the bottom of my overflow bottle though, I've read that it can be an engine problem, but my engine runs great and I never loose coolant. I'll try the water wetter and see what happens.

How weren't you able to fit the A/C fan with those IC pipes? Rig it up already and run the stocker. Looks like you have enough room from where im sitting. Trim the fan, lengthen the pipe on the drivers side, buy a different longer coupler, all will likely work individually or collectively. That A/C fan isn't large at all. I believe in you.

EDIT: Unless you have zoomed in really close to your 7" fan. I assumed from your picture it was about 10".

It might help a little. The label on the bottle claims about 10° drop in a mix of coolant and water. It wouldn't be an answer, just more or less a band-aid. The funny thing is, I can turn the blower on for the heater and my temp will drop to 180 in a matter of 10 minutes, albeit very uncomfortable in summer. Seems like the radiator just gets heat-soaked and doesn't work as efficiently after a 30+ min drive. There seems to be a "point of no return" after the first initial 200° temp. After that, it won't go below that number unless I turn the heater on.

IrishBeatdown said:

How weren't you able to fit the A/C fan with those IC pipes? Rig it up already and run the stocker. Looks like you have enough room from where im sitting. Trim the fan, lengthen the pipe on the drivers side, buy a different longer coupler, all will likely work individually or collectively. That A/C fan isn't large at all. I believe in you.

EDIT: Unless you have zoomed in really close to your 7" fan. I assumed from your picture it was about 10".

Click to expand...

I couldn't fit the stock a/c fan because the I/C pipe coupler would hit the alternator if I tried to make more room for the fan. Maybe I need to lower the intercooler to make room for the fan? I even trimmed the fan, but wouldn't fit.

GRace said:

I couldn't fit the stock a/c fan because the I/C pipe coupler would hit the alternator if I tried to make more room for the fan. Maybe I need to lower the intercooler to make room for the fan? I even trimmed the fan, but wouldn't fit.

Click to expand...

You could shim the intercooler, not a bad idea. Hitting the alternator is flying quite high. Especially if it was just "barely" hitting the alternator. You could always wrap it if you are worried about the chafing of the alt on the coupler. It's not like the alt is going to melt it or anything. Try angling it a little lower coming into the alt. You really do have a lot of room to play in the wonderful world of silicon if your couplers aren't completely brittle. It's worth the trouble because our stock A/C fans are better than 95% of xxx replacement out there. I'd be running one myself if I could. Be grateful you aren't in this situation:



I don't even have room for slim fans.

120? You mean 220? For a 1g that's pretty hot because I know they have lower coolant temps for some reason from the factory. My 2g would get as high as 226 on very hot days and after switching to a lower thermostat it would stay under 206 most of the time. I also only have one fan which is stock along with the radiator and I keep the fan running at all times. Have you looked up the threads on how some have made ducting out of sheet metal? Ill try to find the thread and post it for you.

Anthony B.

IrishBeatdown said:

You could shim the intercooler, not a bad idea. Hitting the alternator is flying quite high. Especially if it was just "barely" hitting the alternator. You could always wrap it if you are worried about the chafing of the alt on the coupler. It's not like the alt is going to melt it or anything. Try angling it a little lower coming into the alt. You really do have a lot of room to play in the wonderful world of silicon if your couplers aren't completely brittle. It's worth the trouble because our stock A/C fans are better than 95% of xxx replacement out there. I'd be running one myself if I could. Be grateful you aren't in this situation:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I don't even have room for slim fans.

Click to expand...

After looking at some pictures, I should be able to push the coupler under the alternator some. On my intercooler, that pipe comes towards the engine at a slight "up" angle. I think that's why it is so hard to make the fan work.

Thanks for the help, I will resolve this problem, no matter what. I need a/c! It will be in the upper 90s all week so I have good motivation now. I'll post back after I fix the fan and put water wetter in.

Maybe I missed something, but the fans don't do anything when you're moving on the highway.

Also, why did you switch out your factory radiator? It's actually a well designed part of our cars that serves many high horsepower cars optimally. Nearly everyone I know around here in Denver keeps the stock cooling system in place. If possible, consider putting the stock radiator back in.

+1 to what Irish said about the stock a/c fan. I run nothing but the a/c fan on my Talon (because of my I/C setup) and it works fantastic. Temps here are 85-95° during race days and coolant temps rarely get about 210°.

Kreez said:

Maybe I missed something, but the fans don't do anything when you're moving on the highway FYI.

Also, why did you switch out your factory radiator? It's actually a well designed part of our cars that serves many high horsepower cars well. Nearly everyone here that I know keeps the stock cooling system in place. If possible, consider putting the stock radiator back in.

+1 to what Irish said about the stock a/c fan. I run nothing but the a/c fan on my Talon (because of my I/C setup) and it works fantastic. Temps here are 85-95* during race days.

Click to expand...

When I got the car it had a cheap plastic end tank leaky radiator. I had to replace it. I'll see if water wetter helps any, but I'm sure I'll end up having to make better air ducting. I would think it's an airflow problem on the highway.

Those fans are junk, I have one just like it and it does almost nothing.

plum your Airflow from your bumper.. there are alot of DIY's out there to show you how

You can probably make an ac fan work. That looks just like my cx racing rad. Theres a "how-to" on the site somewhere. Basically you drill out the stock mount holes so they fit over those studs sticking out. That way, it saves an extra .5" and also sits flush with the radiator. Just pop a bunch of washers with a big enough inside diameter to clamp down on the mounts. It took me about 20 minutes to mod my ac fan bracket.
Now this wont address hwy temps but it should make it so u can fit the stock ac fan back in there.


edit: looking at pics again: you can definitely fit stock ac fan in there. Look through how-to section and you will see what i mean. Idle temps will fall much much quicker too

You can make the stock A/C fan fit. You'll have to trim the lower portion of the shroud a bit, but it will work. I was able to cut the lower mount off and trim the shroud. It's a lot of fiddling but it worked great. I'd post pics but I foolishly let that fan go when I sold my old car.

Shit, im too lazy to post up pics of my bay(plus its pretty ugly right now, paint and body work guy got a bit of overspray in my bay!)
Heres what im talking about with pics:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...it-where-you-thought-only-slim-fan-could.html