The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Rix Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

Whats everything i need to build an engine?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

fmars62

10+ Year Contributor
373
1
May 30, 2011
Middletown, New_York
Hey everyone, recent dsm owner, but have been a lurker on here for a while.

In no newbie but then im no expert so i still need some help with this.

I just bought a 6 bolt block for cheap, with receipts. .20 overbore, honed, crank aline hone, degreased, etc. Now my plan is to build it, now ive never ripped apart a dsm engine before, so i dont know all the parts. I know the basics, crank, pistons, rods, head, cams, valves. But i dont know the torque specs, or the other little pieces.

What is everything, literally EVERYTHING i need to build this?
Also, if im getting forged internals how do i know the torque specs of them? They cant be the stock specs...right?

Thanks!
 
Get a haynes manual. it will be the best thing you ever do while you build your engine. I bought my car with the motor out of it and a complete rebuild ready to be put together but I never have put a complete engine together. That haynes manual has helped me so many times when trying to figure out what comes next on my build. just my .02
 
Search for your manual online and download the PDF for free. Gave me torque specs and everything. I typed 4g63 manual PDF in Google and it was the their one down
 
Hey everyone, recent dsm owner, but have been a lurker on here for a while.

In no newbie but then im no expert so i still need some help with this.

I just bought a 6 bolt block for cheap, with receipts. .20 overbore, honed, crank aline hone, degreased, etc. Now my plan is to build it, now ive never ripped apart a dsm engine before, so i dont know all the parts. I know the basics, crank, pistons, rods, head, cams, valves. But i dont know the torque specs, or the other little pieces.

What is everything, literally EVERYTHING i need to build this?
Also, if im getting forged internals how do i know the torque specs of them? They cant be the stock specs...right?

Thanks!

You need to find a service manual. You can download it online, there are some threads here that have links to it if you search.
 
i got one already i have the chilton service manual. so im guessing just read that and order all new parts according to that?

also, my other question is what is everything i can delete? egr, evap, wgs, fps? i want my engine bay to be clean, tucked, nothing but pure engine.
 
Try engine bay clean up or wire tuck, and look on google for pics or web images, lots of threads here on engine bay clean up. i would start looking and seeing what others have done pretty simple, you can decide what works for you and your location depending on emissions and such. Best thing is to look up clean up.
 
i got one already i have the chilton service manual. so im guessing just read that and order all new parts according to that?

If you can find the factory service manual its more detailed.

also, my other question is what is everything i can delete? egr, evap, wgs, fps? i want my engine bay to be clean, tucked, nothing but pure engine.

You can delete all that but if you don't have dsmlink you will get check engine lights. You can also delete cruise control, that gets rid of some stuff under the hood and cleans it up some.
 
Also can delete A/C and ABS. And if you want P/S too.

both are already deleted

If you can find the factory service manual its more detailed.



You can delete all that but if you don't have dsmlink you will get check engine lights. You can also delete cruise control, that gets rid of some stuff under the hood and cleans it up some.

yeah that was my next step, but ill just have open connectors haging around. can i cut them off? im not electrician, or can i take out the wiring harness open the seal and just remove the wires to the things i deleted, tape it back up and put it back in, i dont want to sotter splice or do anything of that sort.
 
Also can delete A/C and ABS. And if you want P/S too.

oh my. This is a huge question. Best off, grab a Haynes manual and do a LOT of reading/searching.
Worked for me. Three times over ;)

i have a chilton manual, will that do?

also another question, the block i got still has the stock crank/rods/pistons in it. he got the cranks balanced, honed etc. now how much hp can the stock 6 bolt crank hold?

if it cant hold alot, if i get another one can i just drop it in or do i have to get it balanced and stuff?
 
I would keep the stock crank, unless you want crazy power have you looked up some things yet on your goals, and the upgrade path, lots of information to get you started.
 
i have a chilton manual, will that do?

also another question, the block i got still has the stock crank/rods/pistons in it. he got the cranks balanced, honed etc. now how much hp can the stock 6 bolt crank hold?

if it cant hold alot, if i get another one can i just drop it in or do i have to get it balanced and stuff?

The stock crank can handle whatever power you're planning on making.

You should throw away that Chilton and get a Haynes along with downloading the factory service manual. I've just never liked the Chilton manuals...

You can unhook the FPS, BCS, and the Exaporative Emissions Purge Solenoid from their respective vacuum lines. FPS just run a line from regulator to intake manifold. BCS you'll need a boost controller to replace it, or run spring pressure on the wastegate. As stated you will get a CEL if you remove them from the wire harness. You can tuck them away plugged in, which should keep the CEL from turning on. If you don't want them there, your options are to get DSMlink to turn them off, or solder resistors into the harness. You'd have to take out a solenoid and check the resistance on it, but I believe they are all 30-35 Ohms.

Also, as mentioned, you can delete EGR, which cleans things up a lot and the car will actually run better. AC delete, PS delete, ABS delete, alternator relocate, CC delete, clutch damper delete w/ss line master to slave, wire tuck, battery relocate, fuse box relocate, slim fans, short route intercooler piping, Coil on plug, heat delete, FIAV blockoff (so no coolant lines to thottle body), run a turbo that isn't water cooled, evo III OFH (so no coolant lines there to deal with), not much more to clean it up beyond that. You could get braided stainless steel brake lines made that you'd be able to tuck out of sight.
 
Follow this link to get to online copies of the service manual. This is way more detailed than a Haynes or Chilton, and has served me very well.
DSM 4G63 Maintenance Guide - DSMtuners

You need to develop a plan for your final power goal. That will determine whether or not you need forged internals.

The tech pages here have a lot of good starting plans:
Tech Guide - DSMtuners

Deleting stuff is fine, but you may miss it later if this is going to be a car you drive frequently. Don't get hung up on a few hp if you're not serious about competing in autocross, drag, or track events. 10hp has never made a difference at a stop light grand prix.

As far as parts go, it depends what you already have. Read through a couple of build journals to see what parts people are buying and why. If you haven't studied engines or how they work, taking some time to read up on basic engine operation would give you an idea of what else you may need.

Take it one step at a time, but plan 10 steps ahead.
 
thanks guys for the replies.

i know how engines work, im studying right now to be an auto major. i want to do everything myself for this car, saves me money plus i get to learn. but being my first dsm and not knowing eveythin about them, i need some help.

now i dont think it was stupid of me to buy a bare block, i just dont know every piece i need. i can learn...

my goal is 400-500hp. i plan on going with a holset hx35.
 
Don't worry what anyone tells you everyone started somewhere.
1. Get a manual Haynes or Chiltons they are both good
2. Get a DSM manual on CD it was alot easier on a CD
3. Goto youtube and type in jafro or jafromobile. His videos are awesome. I have read them a few times over and over again. He has a engine 101 set of videos and a transmission 101 videos also
4. Make sure you have a local machine that works on a 4g63 not every shop can or will do any work you might need.
5. The parts list is really up to your Goals
6. As far as replacements parts timing belt and tensioner. A new gasket set will be needed no matter what.
7. Ask lots of questions and it will all be good
 
You need some pistons, rods, bearings, gaskets, bolts, nuts and fluids and last but not least engine specs sheet.
 
You need some pistons, rods, bearings, gaskets, bolts, nuts and fluids and last but not least engine specs sheet.

Forgetting a few things i see. Lets not forget, oil pump, oil pickup, water pump, timing belt, timing belt pulleys, timing belt tensioner, balance shaft eliminator, rings. This is just for the bottom end. You could always need guides and valves in the head. You would never know until you measure the specs though.
 
I like the OEM parts when it comes to the oil pump, pulleys, and tensioner set, but for the pistons, rods, and bearing.
 
I also believe you have oil squirters as well since this is a 6 bolt block. Don't foget those! 4G63t is the first engine I ever built and its still going strong. They are good simple engines to start on IMO. 400-500HP is a big goal and will cost quite a bit of money to accomplish! Expect to spend $1000-$2000 over budget with these cars because things just pop up and you don't remember some parts, tools, or service costs. Make sure you get the right tuning software and equipment, don't forget that either. Goodluck! :thumb:



Forgetting a few things i see. Lets not forget, oil pump, oil pickup, water pump, timing belt, timing belt pulleys, timing belt tensioner, balance shaft eliminator, rings. This is just for the bottom end. You could always need guides and valves in the head. You would never know until you measure the specs though.
 
anyone got a link to the oem or dsm manual? cant find one, been searching.
 
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/344490-download-1g-service-manuals.html

im in poughkeepsie and have rebuilt a few engines. If you want someone to help out let me know and once you get the parts together i can shoot over there and lend a hand.

some things not to forget other thant the basic stuff

assembly lube
good torque wrench
plastigauge
tensioner tool
spec sheet for ring endgap
feeler gauges
new freeze plugs
oil squirters or block off plugs
front case
bse kit
new head gasket
new gaskets for oil filter housing, rear main, front case...etc
 
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/344490-download-1g-service-manuals.html

im in poughkeepsie and have rebuilt a few engines. If you want someone to help out let me know and once you get the parts together i can shoot over there and lend a hand.

some things not to forget other thant the basic stuff

assembly lube
good torque wrench
plastigauge
tensioner tool
spec sheet for ring endgap
feeler gauges
new freeze plugs
oil squirters or block off plugs
front case
bse kit
new head gasket
new gaskets for oil filter housing, rear main, front case...etc

Sweet, thanks for looking out man! Ill defiantly hit you up if i need anything.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top