greengoblin said:

The Frontline FAB diff cover will not work with the tube subframe. I talked to Andrew about it and I doubt he is going to make any chance so it can.

When you get the subframe dropped can you get me a few good pics of the fuel tank strap mounting points. The straps have "hooks" on them where they bolt to the frame under the rear cross member. I have been wondering about what if anything they hook on too.

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I sent my FF diff cover off to Paul to build the tubular subframe around it, so it would fit. That's why, when Andrew came out with the CNC diff cover, I couldn't make the upgrade because the CNC diff cover wouldn't fit this subframe.

Here are shots of the diff with the FF cover installed before Paul sent the subframe off to get coated.
Diff in subframe with FF cover installed

I will for sure take a few pictures of the straps holding it up, I might already have a few I could dig up when I did my AWD swap back in 2008. I'll have to look but, if I don't, I'll definitely get you some pictures.

Everything looks great. Can't wait to see the finished install.

Do we even need diff covers with this kind of subframe?

Nice then when paul builds mine it can be like your. if we can get him off the gun range and working......

viperlp01 said:

Not to knock on Tims accomplishments but Devins 2g is running a 2g diff and is cutting 1.3 60ft and is going mid 8s....

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Are you sure? When I asked him what he recommends for my rear diff he said they use an Evo 8 rear diff using Evo 8 inner axle cups and the rest is a stock 2g axle.

Yeah I'm pretty sure Tim now runs an Evo diff, though you'd have to ask him why. Can't personally say if he did amazing things with a 2g viscous though as I don't pay attention to drag stuff.

Interesting. I knew Tim was running Evo diff internals, Evo III though.

On another note, I got busy since it's the weekend for me once again. In the nice cool 113* garage temps I got to work today - got the toe arms loose, drained the diff, removed the rear knuckles, then lowered the subframe with the diff installed. I might be able to bench 225lbs but I wasn't OK with laying underneath this thing, while I loosened the bolts up, and try to press it down. I used my jack and some circus balancing skills and lowered it, it was pretty damn easy to be honest.







Now comes the fun part, trying to get this diff into the tubular rear subframe.

Before I started bolting the diff up into the subframe, making it heavy, I wanted to test fit it to make sure everything cleared. The fuel fill neck needs slightly modified, my plan is to cut it back 3-4", add a longer rubber hose to go over the subframe, then weld the filler neck check-valve inlet back on.

The gas tank straps needed some convincing but other than that, things fell right into place. I'll be taking the filler neck in to get welded tomorrow, pick it up next Monday, and in the mean time I'll be installing the diff.





Here's a quick shot of the frame bolted into place, the FF diff cover bolted in, and the driverside LCA/toe arm in place.

That's gonna be so awesome when it's done.

Looks great, your going to need about three industrial fans to keep cool. I'll fed ex you a nos. with work and family I feel you on time. Funny I just started putting terdzilla back together. your post always secretly motivate me.

Taking those out is one thing. Putting them back in is a whole other ball park. But good work on it, looks awesome and Im sure its going to work ten times that much

Man that looks great

Back out to the garage this morning and started test fitting the rear diff in the subframe. Paul said the tolerances were tight as it was, that extra powdercoat on there didn't help matters so the fitment it TIGHT now. The car will rotate around the diff before it comes out of this thing...

I removed my stock rear diff cover, I've never seen the guts of one of these so I was "oo'ing and aw'ing" for a few minutes checking everything out. In my unprofessional opinion everything looked good for a car with 112,000 miles.







I moved the diff over to my creeper (no cover on it) and then sat the subframe over it, carefully.



Then I installed the FF diff cover and tightened up the (2) top long bolts, that way I could slide the diff back and onto the cover.



After wrestling the diff into place, even pulling out the rubber mallet to wail on the damn thing, the bolt holes were lined up. I flipped it onto it's back and checked fitment/threads on the bolts that hold the tail of it. Perfect fit.





Now it's time to pull it back out and get some RTV on the diff cover and Loctite 232 on all bolts before I torque them. Slowly but surely...

Awesome, awesome! I knew the rearend housing would be a tight fit due to the way it had to be designed to accomodate the OE fuel tank. I'm sure a few choice words were spoken.

Fine work so far.

I'm glad it clears the tank. To date, this is the only one I've built for an OE tank and I wasn't able to verify fitment, so seeing it fitting is a bit of a relief.

Looking forward to more updates!

That looks so good, hurry up with 1g subframes Paul!

Nice work! Perfection takes time. Can't wait to finally see these things hit the market.

WoW now that it's all bolted up you can see how solid it is. Does anyone make this for a 1g?

Raymond1927 said:

Does anyone make this for a 1g?

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I'm planning to do a 1G rear soon. I have a complete subframe sitting behind the garage. Just need to jig it up and get to fabbin. But with the work I currently have on my plate, I imagine it will be a project for after this racing season.

Ran into a few kinks last night that set me back a few days, I was hoping to get the subframe bolted to the car and torqued by Friday but it doesn't look like I'm going to meet that.

So after applying some RTV to the diff cover and sliding the diff back onto it, then buttoning everything up, I noticed that I couldn't freely rotate the diff anymore. Questioning whether this was typical or not I took a step back to investigate and get some opinions of some DSM buddies. Turns out it was simple enough, still a pain in the ass to fix though. The ring gear protrudes into the diff cover and, for whatever reason, was contacting the Frontline Fab cover just enough to bind.

After pulling the cover off and lightly forcing it down as a friend helped rotate the diff we "marked" the case so I knew where to take some metal off. Here's the before and after, that's all it took and now the cover is bolted back up and torqued to OE spec with 232 on the threads.

Sorry the pictures are blurry, I was on beer 3 with low lighting and no tripod. You can tell by my clearancing job that I was all over the place.

Need two people to install this thing my ass Paul, just need some muscle. I pressed it up there with one hand on the bottom of the diff while I threaded the nuts on the subframe bolts with the other.

Still have to fill the diff with Redline and the finish routing the filler neck to the gas tank. I ordered a 1.5" fuel filler coupler joint from Fuel Filler Necks & Gas Tank Pipes | Filler Neck Supply Co., that way I can extend the rubber portion of the filler to just passed the subframe. You can see it protruding from the end of the filler hose on the passengerside of the car. To do this it has cost less than $25, which isn't too bad considering the fact we weren't sure how to correct the issue when I started installing the subframe.

Once the above is complete I'm just a few suspension bolts away from getting the car back on its feet. But, if Brian (snowborder) gets my DG Koni coilover setup out here in time maybe I can get that installed before I go test this subframe on the street.



That jagged edge showing bugs the shit out of me, has anyone ever used a sheet metal nibbler on a drill to get a clean edge? I've been thinking about buying one as I'm sure I'd get more than one use out of it, I'm just not sure how well they work.

Today I modified the fuel filler neck and test fit it, now I just need to go to the local auto parts store and get some I.D. 1.5" rubber hose to attach the filler neck to the coupler going to the tank. I also got the driverside suspension put back together, should be done by next weekend.

What did you use to cut out the spare tire area, a rock?? Good god. :!:

That subframe looks incredible though!

A spoon, actually.

It bugs me but all I had access to at the time was a sawz-all and tin snips, I'm in the market for some sheet metal nibblers to clean it up and run a nice rubber line around the edge so it isn't sharp. It's out of site out of mind with my cover installed, now it's an eyesore especially with that piece of artwork bolted right next to it.

Take some pliers and roll the edge at least so it won't cut you or any wires or hoses that might touch it.
Picture right above that looks like something out of a magazine.

Thanks for the help but I'll probably just get a set of nibblers in the next few days and clean it up for good. Everyone's going to want to see this thing so more often than not I'll be getting shit for the hack job on the spare tire well.

that looks absolutely amazing! I WANT ONE! like for real i want one!

sorry Afghanistan internet said my last message was sending when i dint want it to.... any ways... if there is any way that i can pick up one of these sets i would do it in the drop of a hat! i should be heading home from deployment soonish (i hope) if you happen to have another one laying around or willing to make another drop me a PM and as soon as this dumb Afghanistan internet will let me ill hit ya back up.