i believe that is too much boost for a stock head your bearing will eventually spun

i would say the max psi 6-8 for stock

i would tone down the boost a bit and see if thats the problem and about the valve cover i dont think you have to remove it for the head gasket i could be wrong

What did you torque the head studs/bolts to? Was the head surface level? What about the block?

iPyromaniacC42 said:

i believe that is too much boost for a stock head your bearing will eventually spun

i would say the max psi 6-8 for stock

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What the #### are you talking about?

The guy that told you you should have pulled the valve cover off probably meant to re-torque the head bolts. Did you measure them and check them for stretch?

Did you make sure the head was flat before you made the repair?

No, that's not too much boost for the stock head bolts.

iPyromaniacC42 said:

i believe that is too much boost for a stock head your bearing will eventually spun

i would say the max psi 6-8 for stock

i would tone down the boost a bit and see if thats the problem and about the valve cover i dont think you have to remove it for the head gasket i could be wrong

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You sir are very very wrong stock boost is higher than 6 to 8 pounds from factory. Yes you do need to take off the VC, how else do you reach the head bolts than hold the head down. Please don't post if you don't know exactly what your talking about, and can help the op.

Wow....

The guy talking about 6-8psi obviously drives an N/T, so his info is irrelevant.

Anyways, you should have re-torqued the bolts after a few heat cycles.

Did you have the head re-surfaced before putting back together?

Also, are you running stock 450's? They won't cut it at 18psi on a 16G. Anything to tune with? Did you have some bad knock due to running too lean with stock injectors?

Well after talking to a guy that is probably the most knowledgeable that i know of here in the OKC area I explained to him everything that happened and how the original head gasket was torqued down and everything else and found out that the idiot friend I have is even more of an idiot than i thought and fed on the fact that i didnt know a whole lot about DSM's when i bought mine.

Anyway to answer your questions the head was torqued down initially to 30 ft/lbs then they were torqued to 60 ft/lbs and the car was heat cycled. after the head studs were then checked but only torqued down to 60 ft/lbs.

Oh but wait it gets better. so the idiot friend i have "resurfaced" the head with a air grinder and a scotch pad basically or resurfacing disc and a ruler. So me being the not so bright guy i was at the time and not having near the knowledge base on DSM's that i do now believed him about it and we put my car together and torqued the head studs like i described above.

Then idiot friend a week later told me i should turn up my boost from the 12 lbs that my waste gate was set to up to 18 lbs of boost, and i specifically asked him if it would cause any problems and he assured me that it would be perfectly OK. Well anyway long story short the root cause was that my head was resurfaced completely wrong and my head studs were not torqued down like they should have been.

So now needless to say because of all of this I'm guessing the coolant cracked my exhaust manifold when it went thru the exhaust manifold and since i had just hit full boost when it blew I'm gonna guess the pressure from it also cracked my radiator.

Moral of the story is from now on i will make sure i do my research and make sure that what someone is telling me is right. And yes i will accept any trash talking you guys feel like talking since i was an idiot and just listened to my buddy who was supposed to be know his stuff.

jjw205 said:

Wow....

The guy talking about 6-8psi obviously drives an N/T, so his info is irrelevant.

Anyways, you should have re-torqued the bolts after a few heat cycles.

Did you have the head re-surfaced before putting back together?

Also, are you running stock 450's? They won't cut it at 18psi on a 16G. Anything to tune with? Did you have some bad knock due to running too lean with stock injectors?

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I am running 850cc injectors with a 3.5" gm maf and a translator.

Wow, SCARY! Air grinder? That's pathetic. Should have read up more on here, there's hundreds of threads with that info.

Lucky it didn't cause more damage than that. Get the head resurfaced, you might even need a new head, depending on the damage he did with the grinder.

triston2469 said:

I am running 850cc injectors with a 3.5" gm maf and a translator.

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OK, good. Didn't see in your profile.

jjw205 said:

Wow, SCARY! Air grinder? That's pathetic. Should have read up more on here, there's hundreds of threads with that info.

Lucky it didn't cause more damage than that. Get the head resurfaced, you might even need a new head, depending on the damage he did with the grinder.



OK, good. Didn't see in your profile.

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i agree that is some scary hack ways of doing things.... might as well drag the head across a rough concrete floor at that point.


depending on how much he took off the head you should be able to save it, provided you take it to a reputable shop.

just something to keep in mind make sure you have the shop that fixes the head find out how much they have taken off from stock, depending on how much has to be taken off it will possibly raise your compression. where you can possibly offset it with a thicker head gasket.

just somehting to keep in mind. hope you have better luck in your future!

jjw205 said:

Wow, SCARY! Air grinder? That's pathetic. Should have read up more on here, there's hundreds of threads with that info.

Lucky it didn't cause more damage than that. Get the head resurfaced, you might even need a new head, depending on the damage he did with the grinder.



OK, good. Didn't see in your profile.

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thanks for all the advice guys and i will definitely use this site more than i have been instead of listening to idiot friends. I thought i added the injectors to my profile but i guess not. i will have to go add them. i agree on the scary part but i guess its like they say you live and learn and i have definitely learned my lesson.

also you may want to go pick up some arp head studs (L19s if you plan on getting crazy on the boost later on) just to add some extra piece of mind and security. Good luck

You're on Wichita DSMs I was following your problem there. Sucks that happened you you man

Tiki2777 said:

also you may want to go pick up some arp head studs (L19s if you plan on getting crazy on the boost later on) just to add some extra piece of mind and security. Good luck

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When i actually build my new motor i will do L19s but for now im just gonna go with regular ARPs i think.

horizontalkev said:

You're on Wichita DSMs I was following your problem there. Sucks that happened you you man

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yes i am on the wichita dsm page and the idiot friend that steered me in the wrong direction on everything and caused this problem is on their as well.

That's really crazy using an air grinder, At least he was half smart about it and used a ruler!!

I prefer l19 head studs but if on tight budget arp standards will do. I would just get a felpro or oem composite head gasket and surface the head and block and torque to specs. There should never be a problem. Unless consulted by a professional a risky take is taking advice from a friend. Not saying no one knows what they are talking about just the information is out there. Just follow the instructions that are everyone and you will be fine. Everyone gatta learn sometime and never hurts to take the time to study over things. Knowledge is the key in life study and learn things then you will know how to do them. Videos and tutorials everywhere. Get it fixed and hope all is good agian. Good luck my dsm buddy and keep boosting. If need help it never hurts to ask anyone or look up anything before doing things. If its your stuff and you want it good take the time to search and figure it out to make sure its right to your liking. Nothing wrong with being over obsese with stuff becuase you will be happy with it.

ya i know what you mean about searching stuff and all that. and its not so much that im on a tight budget but i only plan to run this motor for a short while. until my actual motor is done. when i actually build my motor then i will go with the best of the best.

You don't need L19's for 18psi with a freakin' 16G. I've seen regular ARP's hold 38psi from a HX40 for an entire season....spend your money elsewhere.

Your gasket died because the head was resurfaced improperly and the studs were torqued 30-40 lb/ft too loose. Has nothing to do with the studs themselves. Get another head or have yours resurfaced, get a new FelPro 9627PT gasket, and torque the studs from the center out at 30-60-95 with Moly lube on the threads and you'll be set.

JusMX141 said:

You don't need L19's for 18psi with a freakin' 16G. I've seen regular ARP's hold 38psi from a HX40 for an entire season....spend your money elsewhere.

Your gasket died because the head was resurfaced improperly and the studs were torqued 30-40 lb/ft too loose. Has nothing to do with the studs themselves. Get another head or have yours resurfaced, get a new FelPro 9627PT gasket, and torque the studs from the center out at 30-60-95 with Moly lube on the threads and you'll be set.

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Ya i know i dont need L19's for 18 lbs of boost. I have the new felpro gasket and my head is going to the machine shop tomorrow. I just wish the person that torqued my head studs down did it the right way in the first place and i wouldnt have to be doing this again. When I build my new motor i plan to run way more than 18 lbs of boost.

So you know what to look for when you go to the machine shop.

Read these links before you take the head to the machine shop.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

An air grinder... I would say the surface looked about like the surface on this honda block..

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...block-i-have-ever-surfaced.html#post153128223


So you will know how to figure how thin your head is...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...how-measure-4g63-cylinder-head-thickness.html

Thanks for the links on everything and all the information. I actually dropped off my head this morning to a place that was recommended by another buddy that i know for a fact knows his stuff. I have physically watched him assemble blocks and have seen the cars he has built. I should have go with him originally when putting my car back together the first time as far as torque specs and everything else goes.

needless to say this has been my extremely big idiot moment and I will make damn sure it never happens again.

Ha well at least you can admit that instead of just saying 'my friend f'd my car up'

Cdc1221 said:

Ha well at least you can admit that instead of just saying 'my friend f'd my car up'

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Thanks

What about your fuel pump. Is it stock?

This talk about torquing the head bolts again after a few heat cycles, is this ever necessary? I did a head gasket recently and never read anything about having to retorque the head bolts. On a 420a, the timing and camshafts need to all come apart to get a socket that far into the head*.

*Unless there's a really, really nifty swivel head I don't know about.

triston2469 said:

so the idiot friend i have "resurfaced" the head with a air grinder and a scotch pad basically or resurfacing disc and a ruler.

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There's a flat edge tool you're supposed to use when checking the decking surface. A ruler is not the proper way of doing it... something to keep in mind.