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White Smoke / Car Is Smoking White [Merged 7-9]

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Apeximprt2nr

15+ Year Contributor
620
5
Apr 20, 2005
Northern, New_Jersey
Alright guys, well I just finished my 14B install in my 95 GSX. All is well besides some minor oil leaks on the return line and the SS feed line at the filter housing. There was also a VERY minor coolant leak from the front banjo bolt on the turbo. I tightened it a tad and I think i went away. Now the turbo is spooling really late because I think there may be a leak before the turbo.
Now on to the problems.

1. The turbo does not smoke at all besides at WOT sometimes it blows out whiteish grey smoke. I'm trying to think of where it could be burning coolant. It never did this before the turbo install.

2. There was some white smoke the past 2 days at the manifold. I'm thinking its the shitload of PB Blaster that I sprayed all over the car but I'm not sure.

3. There's a smell coming from my engine that I can smell if I pop my hood and it becomes more noticeable when I'm driving and really get on it. It smells like burning plastic sort of, with a mix of burning rubber. The lower heat shield is not on the car because it's a pain to get on and I haven't put it back on because I haven't had time. Nothing is touching anything hot so I 'm confused...The only possible thing is maybe I pout on a new 4 ply exhaust mani. gasket as well as antiseize on most of the bolts and the turbo-mani. bolts.

Any help? Thanks.
 
I had an issue with my car producing white smoke from oil dripping down the spark plug hole because the vc gasket under the plug was torn.

My other car always smoked a little blueish white smoke at idle only 1000 miles after having the head rebuilt, it was a valve stem seal that was put in wrong.
 
Sorry, had driveability tests at school, so had to put this off 'til now.

So no fuel upgrades whatsoever? Only things I could think of fuel economy wise is plugs/wires, and possible bad o2 sensor(s) unless you have an upgraded exhaust with no cat.

No fuel upgrades yet. I have a new fuel filter, but it hasn't gone on since I can't loosen the hardware on the current one :( I could probably use a new pump, so will be getting a Walbro one soon. Will be getting a new o2 sensor too (no upgraded exhaust).

Sorry bout that, i was skimming your original post. im still learning around the DSM. Not a noob to an engine, still learning thou.

No worries dude, was prepping for tests at school, so if I came off in a negative way, sorry about that. ;)

I had an issue with my car producing white smoke from oil dripping down the spark plug hole because the vc gasket under the plug was torn.

My other car always smoked a little blueish white smoke at idle only 1000 miles after having the head rebuilt, it was a valve stem seal that was put in wrong.

The VC gasket is as new as the head gasket, but I guess anything is possible at this point. Before my old 7 bolt spun bearings, I had coolant leaking in that area, with no coolant in the oil in the head. Had no idea why it was there, and hasn't happened since. This is the same head though, will have to check that out. Valve seals are only under 1k miles old, so they shouldn't be bad. No blue, black, or gray smoke. Only white.
 
have you figured this issue out yet? I know someone whos having the same problem. no loss of drivability issues or any other issues for that matter but hes having the smoke.
 
No, it hasn't been resolved yet. I'm goingto buy a new FIAV gasket on payday. Even if that proves to do nothing for this, it still won't hurt to replace it since I'm sure its the original 16 year old seal. Replacing the BISS for that reason as well.
 
okay so the car idles perfect after just recently setting the BISS and the IAC, TPS already adjusted too, but with the car idleing, there is a lot of thick white smoke coming out of the exahaust, but it 'hangs around' and smells like oil smoke. I just did a small drive in hopes of something burning off, but the smoke actually goes away as you go in to the next gears but the slower the more smoke, and I did hear a cupple of small backfires for the first time. WTF

checked the sparg plugs and gap and the wells and plugwires don't look oily at all, oil catchcan was just cleaned and was still clean.

intercooler piping from the J pipe to the intercooler was coated with oil and the I/C itself had a very small amount of dirty oil inside, cleaned everything out. since the other half of my I/C that leads to the TB is higher then the J-pipe side, nothing reached that side of the I/C & piping, looked down it with a flashlight.

took the intake off the turbo, sure enough, there was some dark oil at the bottom of the coupling. Looks like an internal turbo seal I guess? but its just been rebuilt. the oil feed line I have from the head too which its supposed to have a built in oil restrictor. how can it be coming out of the jpipe?

dumped the coolant out, looks like there may be a very small amount of oil there too, what does this usually mean?
 
What does your oil drain look like? There's absolutely zero reason a turbo with a fresh rebuild would consume oil without shaft play if the rebuild was done correctly, pressure at the inlet is within spec, and the oil drain isn't pinched.
 
Oil drain is x psi AN oil drain.I did just find the little hole on the front of the vc.Why and how is that leaking?On fresh oil i see this
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You did the rebuild, theres like 20 miles on the turbo literally.
 
What does your oil drain look like? There's absolutely zero reason a turbo with a fresh rebuild would consume oil without shaft play if the rebuild was done correctly, pressure at the inlet is within spec, and the oil drain isn't pinched.

belive it or not I bought this turbo from you its a small 16g that you had. I trust that it was done right but the thing is my aftermarket oil pressure gauge always showed perfect & consistent readings so I'm just not sure what to think, accept for adding a new / better restrictor.

I can take a pic of the oil drain if needed but I've made a perfect oil return line from a piece of -10an braided hose and fittings, 1 strait 1 90*. same flat flange, hasn't leaked anything since the install.

I was wondering, if it'd be a bad idea to temporarily run the engine with the oil feed lines for both sides plugged, to burn off the oil inside the turbo, could that help / hurt at all? just before / until I get a new oil restrictor.

is there any chance the inside oil seals of the turbo are any good if oil has gotten passed them? thanks
 
I can take a pic of the oil drain if needed but I've made a perfect oil return line from a piece of -10an braided hose and fittings, 1 strait 1 90*. same flat flange, hasn't leaked anything since the install.
Please do. Homemade oil returns kill more perfectly-good turbos than you think. ;)

I was wondering, if it'd be a bad idea to temporarily run the engine with the oil feed lines for both sides plugged, to burn off the oil inside the turbo, could that help / hurt at all? just before / until I get a new oil restrictor.
Block off the oil supply and the turbo will be dead in two seconds. Literally.
 
Please do. Homemade oil returns kill more perfectly-good turbos than you think. ;)


Block off the oil supply and the turbo will be dead in two seconds. Literally.

i'll go take a pic but what about the homemade oil returns kills turbos? thanks for the heads up on the oil, the idea only came to mind from thinking about drag cars. or is that water.
 
i'll go take a pic but what about the homemade oil returns kills turbos?
Kinks. Factory metal drain tubes can't kink....aftermarket rubber or braided stainless steel (which are rubber hose inside) lines can.

Oil drain is x psi AN oil drain.I did just find the little hole on the front of the vc.Why and how is that leaking?On fresh oil i see this
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You did the rebuild, theres like 20 miles on the turbo literally.
That's the drain from the center of the valve cover. If you're seeing oil here, your oil cap is leaking...and the reason your oil cap is leaking is from too much crankcase pressure. This will also cause any turbo to smoke because the crankcase is trying to breathe through the turbo.
 
Thanks man..But how do I fix excessive crankcase pressure.I just put in a new pvc like the other day.

Anything I should check?The leak from that plug galley is running down the side of my head and getting all over the inside of my timing cover.The only thing I deleted during my hg job in the timing area was the ac belt.

Oil cap is off a jdm galant.


Oil cap gasket in in my cart @ stm, anything else you can think of,The shipping costs more than the gasket LOL.
 
Oil cap gasket in in my cart @ stm, anything else you can think of,The shipping costs more than the gasket LOL.
Bud, don't be an idiot..

Go to AutoZone, walk in with your 710 cap in hand, and find a gasket that's the exact same size as a DSM's. Once I did this and found the universal 710 caps that had the same gasket I bought two of them and on my way out of the store I removed the gaskets and threw the shitty oil caps away. Then I put both of the new gaskets on my stock oil cap and tighted it down, 5 minutes and $5 later I was back on the road.

No shipping, no wait.

:dsm:
 
Corey I only have moolah in PP:(.Which is why im not just driving 10 minutes to pick up the gasket..But I could wait for a few days till I get paid.


Now I just updated my profile to get me back on track and back on the road.
 
Well in that case, don't be an idiot and transfer money from your PayPal into your bank account. Log-in, under the "My Account" tab click the Withdraw button, from it select the "Transfer to Bank Account" in the drop down.

PayPal money is YOUR MONEY, you don't need to keep it in PayPal and only buy OE Mitsubishi oil cap gaskets for $5 and then pay $10 to ship. Take the money out of PayPal, spend $5 on twice as many gaskets from Auto Zone then use the other $10 to survive the next week until you get paid.

Anyone else need a financial adviser?

:dsm:
 
Hell yeah, helll yeah,hell ya,F***ing right,F***ing right,Alllright..

Never knew I would need finacial advice on tuners .Transfered money.Lets see in a few days if replacing the oil cap gaskets helps.
 
Bud.. go get the PayPal Debit card... no wait.. just spend!
 
Recently bought a 2g eclipse gsx
Its completely stock other than
MBC and Wastegate
Started smoking white out the exhaust (A LOT) not idling tho or reving have to take a drive and get into the trottle for a bit then it will smoke for a while but will go away untill you start using the gas again..
Could this just be a seal for the turbo?
did compression test
1- 125
2- 130
3- 140
4- 130
Added oil when doing 2nd compression test and
The numbers went to about 160
Probably rings?
Or could it be somthing else..
Thanks
btw i also just changed alternator and replaced the O2 sensor..
Car has 120k miles on it
 
The service limit for compression test numbers on a 2G turbo is 133 psi so yeah, not good. Three of your four cylinders fall below 133. A bone stock brand new motor should test out to 178 psi. The numbers will always increase with oil. Ring sealing could be an issue.

Follow up your results with a leakdown test to determine where your air is escaping. You will need a compressor and a leakdown tester. You can build your own if you like or purchase one. The options for where the leakage is occurring are intake/exhaust valves, rings/cylinder walls and your head gasket. Remove your coolant cap when you do the test and look for the coolant rising or bubbling. If you see that you have a head gasket issue.

The white smoke could be coming from your turbo seals or your head gasket. After you do the leakdown test you will have a better idea what is going on.
 
I'm not going to guess at the problem, but there is an issue. Your compression numbers are very low. Are you sure you did the test correctly? If you are sure a leakdown test will help you pinpoint the issue.

Is your coolant low or disappearing? Is your overflow bottle filling up? White smoke usually indicates burning coolant.

Personally I try not to smell exhaust. There is a bunch of yucky stuff in it.
 
Do you mean the intake hose with the mass air flow sensor? If so that is relatively normal. As long as there isn't a lot of oil. Oil from the valve cover breather connects to the intake and it will introduce oil to your intake/turbo. This is why people put oil catch cans on their cars.

You are ignoring your original/major issue though. Focus on one thing at a time. Your compression numbers are low. Figure that problem out first and then move to solving other issues.
 
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