Sketchy engine stand + other question (Pics)

blanks · Jun 26, 2013

Ok so got some threaded rod monday, no one around my location had 10x1.25 bolts, Anyways I have the engine stand setup like the guy had his previously setup. Only problem is I have to have a piece of wood under the oil pan or the engine on the far side of where its bolted in is very tippy, and not sturdy. Dont think it would ever break the rods but not taking the chance. Did I do something wrong setting this up? couple pics to show how it is.

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Aswell the crank for the Ac, and the altenator will not come off, I havent pried from opposite sides, fairly hard. Aswell noticed a pin in there, does that have to be pushed through? pic provided, all bolts are loose not into threads. Pic provided aswell

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The last question is I had a stud break off for the exhaust manifold (using power tools, not smart) I got the stud out with a extraction tool thank god. I know its a 8x1.25 stud but how long and anyone have proper name for it?

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CT DSM 06114 · Jun 26, 2013

1- the threaded rod might be too weak to hold the engine up. i use exhaust manifold bolt to hold the motor to the stand. bolts might be a little short, so mod the fingers for the bolt. i never had an issue with that set up.

2- use some good wd40 or pb blast. light tap the inside of the pully, get it to wobble and spray some more. if all fails, use a torch on the crank pully, not the bolt and tap again. that roll pin is an alignment pin for the pully. it does not push in.

3- should be about 45mm long. i used a 40mm on my head, and was a bit short from oem. still am able to bolt up my manifold.

hope this helps.

4g63t · Jun 26, 2013

I would not use a torch on your crank pulley. You will most likely melt your timing cover and wreck the pulley. The pulley has rubber in between the two sections that will melt. Hit it with a rubber mallet. It may take a while but you just need to shock it enough to free it up.

AS far as your exhaust stud you can get new oem ones here:
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
Alternatively, I would put tighten two nuts on a existing stud in your head and loosen the inner one to remove the stud to get the proper length.

blanks · Jun 26, 2013

CT DSM 06114 said:
1- the threaded rod might be too weak to hold the engine up. i use exhaust manifold bolt to hold the motor to the stand. bolts might be a little short, so mod the fingers for the bolt. i never had an issue with that set up.

hope this helps.

Unfortunately it took me a long time to find threaded rod because I couldnt find 5" bolts, I believe your talking about the sleeves for the bolt on the stand when you say the "fingers"? I cant cut them down though because they arent mine. Just borrowing the stand, otherwise I would.

djsuperwho · Jun 26, 2013

You will be fine the way you have it on.

mchustle · Jun 26, 2013

Future reference the main bolts are perfect size for bolting the motor to the engine stand, that's why I always keep a few spares.

Mike02rt · Jun 26, 2013

blanks said:
Aswell the crank for the Ac, and the altenator will not come off, I havent pried from opposite sides, fairly hard. Aswell noticed a pin in there, does that have to be pushed through? pic provided, all bolts are loose not into threads. Pic provided aswell
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To remove harmonic pulley:
Rent a larger 3 arm puller tool to remove the harmonic balancer. Just spray it down with some pb blaster and do it slowly or you'll snap the edges off.

Or you could just remove the oil pan and very lightly tap it off:
Flip the engine over so pan side is up top and tap it with a dead blow hammer on the edge right next to the block.

mikgsxx · Jun 26, 2013

Looks fine to me. I would soak the bolts in pb blaster maybe over night. If that don't work try putting a little heat on them.

Xit40 · Jun 26, 2013

It helps sometimes to remove the crank sprocket bolt. Soak it in pb blaster for a day or two and then give it a couple good whacks on the inner circle with a rubber mallet it should come right off.

VisegripMech · Jun 26, 2013

Did anyone mention pb blaster?

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blanks · Jun 27, 2013

hahaha, Never even heard of PB Blast, I keep thinking of peanut butter, anyway, Not sure they have that here in canada, We have Fluid film though penetrating fluid which im sure is all the same in the end.

Cdc1221 · Jun 27, 2013

Mike02rt said:
To remove harmonic pulley:
Rent a larger 3 arm puller tool to remove the harmonic balancer. Just spray it down with some pb blaster and do it slowly or you'll snap the edges off.

If you do this, and it is really stuck, you will most likely pull the pulley off the hub and ruin the damper. I've made that mistake before...

91-GS · Jun 27, 2013

Cdc1221 said:
If you do this, and it is really stuck, you will most likely pull the pulley off the hub and ruin the damper. I've made that mistake before...

Would it be possible to pull not against the pulley itself, but against some kind of bar (or two, or three) that is laid behind that pulley? That way it's not stressing connections between the hub and the outer ring, instead puller will be applying force directly to said hub.

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Sketchy engine stand + other question (Pics)

blanks

CT DSM 06114

4g63t

blanks

djsuperwho

mchustle

Mike02rt

mikgsxx

Xit40

VisegripMech

blanks

Cdc1221

91-GS

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