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Firsts tuner

Firsts tuner

10+ Year Contributor
245
2
Aug 31, 2012
West point, Kentucky
So I found out I have a n/t 2g 7bolt. I pulled the engine because of a tick I suspected to be a knock. Really didn't sound that bad but I thought what the hell. I tore it down today and to my dismay I realized my pistons had shattered.(literally) in turn wiping out basically everything that moved in the motor. My question now is should I just fix the n/ t block with forged everything or just but a running turbo motor. I'm not looking for a lot of power but I'm sure ill want it later. I found a 95 motor with everything and tranny for 600. Supposed to have wiseco pistons on eagle rods. Mileage is supposedly in the 6000 mile range. What would you guys do.
 

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Just fix and replace what needs to be done. Get it inspected to make sure theres no hidden damage.
 
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clipto said:
Just fix and replace what needs to be done. Get it inspected to make sure theres no hidden damage.
Click to expand...

Thank you. Looking at it I'm basically going to have to start over with a bare block,and build it from there. I was just wondering if it was worth the time money and effort to rebuild it just to be a driver, or just get a decent used engine and run it stock and call it done.
 
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Easiest route is to drop a new motor in. Best route is to fix what you have, that way you know it is done right and put together the way it should be and you know exactly what parts are going in. 600 seems way too cheap for a motor and a tranny, something may not be right.
 
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I would not buy a 95-97.5 block. 97.5-99 would be an easy more reliable swap.

2G 4G63 did not come N/T. Why do you say it's N/T anyway? If it is it must be from a late 1G, since they had a N/T version in 7 bolt.
 
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NHerron said:
I would not buy a 95-97.5 block. 97.5-99 would be an easy more reliable swap.

2G 4G63 did not come N/T. Why do you say it's N/T anyway? If it is it must be from a late 1G, since they had a N/T version in 7 bolt.
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:rocks:
Well like someone said there were in Europe. Ok the guy I bought the car from said he bought the engine from someone overseas. The engine has all the appropriate spots for sensors and such for a 2g. There are no oil squirters and the water pipe had to be swapped because it didn't have the nessicary tee offs and the injectors were for a nt, and lastly the pistons are non turbo pistons. I suppose it could be a late 1g, with a 2g head and sensors. Right? Any way you look at it the car is going to have a motor built for turbo when it is done. The motor I found is a friends so I trust him to an extent. Oh yeah I forgot to mention the head bolts are 11mm. I thought only 2g had that size
 
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Probably just a non turbo 4g63 motor no biggy. Calculate how much a new motor is apose to buying a running good car. That should make up your mind depending on how much u wanna pay.
 
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You got me- I haven't a clue about overseas parts. What kind of dork straps a turbo to an engine with N/T pistons. Anything for that JDM label I guess...

I still recommend extensive research on the years of engines you could swap. There are pros and cons of each.
 
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NHerron said:
You got me- I haven't a clue about overseas parts. What kind of dork straps a turbo to an engine with N/T pistons. Anything for that JDM label I guess...

Exactly. I think I will rebuild the motor I have. I just have to figure out exactly what year I guess, so I can get the right bearings and crank when the tome comes. Thanks for all the input.i know now that my motor has the split style thrust bearing on it if that means anything. I think it means early?
Click to expand...
 
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Firsts tuner said:
i know now that my motor has the split style thrust bearing on it if that means anything. I think it means early?
Click to expand...

The 97+ blocks were split thrust. Are you sure it's not a 4g64?

FYI- You can find the VIN stamped on the block right above the bell housing area.
 
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20 over nothing special pistons, new lifters, and engine gasket kit cost me about a grand when I rebuilt my 1g N/T... If I had to do it over, I'd get a whole motor.. Or find a nice short bock and put your head on there... You'd be able to see the cyl walls that way, you'd know you have a new head gasket, timing belt, ect. Just my opinion.:thumb:
 
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Orielly said they had one for 2500. That was a reman long block. I don't know anything about them or the company that does the work but it seems like a reasonable price for a fresh ready to drop in motor. Who knows. This isn't gonna get done anytime soon, so at least for now I have a new yard ornament.

WES_393 said:
The 97+ blocks were split thrust. Are you sure it's not a 4g64?

FYI- You can find the VIN stamped on the block right above the bell housing area.
Click to expand...

So I just had the chance to run out and look. There is no vin on the square above where the bell housing bolts up. I looked to see if maybe it had been ground off but it's obvious there was never a number there. Above the oil filter housing there is 4g63 and directly under that it says TD5545. Just to clarify here. Mine has the thrust washers and main bearing made into one piece? That's early right? Quick edit: it is a 1g 7bold(dammit) apparently that was my shifting issues too. They didn't use a kiggly kit and the tc was pushing too hard on the pump. I have a friend here locally who is going to help me get a late 2g motor together for a reasonable price. Thanks for all the help I really do appreciate it.
 
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Come to think of it, I seem to recall overseas blocks dont have a VIN stamp.
Like I mentioned earlier, Im not up to date with overseas parts but seems that is a late 97.5+ N/T block, just as you were saying. Just as strong, good bearing design, get it all checked out at the machinist and be good to go.

Congratulations you have a rare paddleboat anchor.
 
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Congratulations you have a rare paddleboat anchor.[/QUOTE]

Yay I feel so much better now! At least I have a core to give the junkyard LOL

Ok I was tired and muddled when I posted. I have come to find out for certain that I have a 1g non turbo bottom end. Its toast so its getting replaced. I think it was also my transmission problem too. If I understand correctly you have to use a kiggly plate to put a 1g motor in a 2g auto car. It dont matter if the 1g is 6 or 7 bolt. It was pushing the t/c into the pump too hard and causing binding and bad shifts. Please correct me if im wrong on that. Anyway now the hunt is on to find a 98-99 7 bolt or a 6bolt. If it is still there I foung a 6bolt 90 laser in a local yard i can get for a song. Thanks for all the help.
 
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Im going to get a 2g block and save myself some time and headache with all the little stuff to make the 1g motor work in my 2g. I appreciate all the help. Its nice to have people to bounce ideas off of.
 
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Good luck!

And there's no such thing as a stupid question!...

...but research the question first just in case...

Just kidding :D

I agree, finding a 2G block would be much easier.
 
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What about a 64 bottom end with the 63 head. I know its been done and I can get the bottom for 100? The only reason im considering this is really the price of the bottom end. I know ill have to get new pistons but I was going to need to anyway. My only real concern is the lack of oil squirters. I know this is a sin to the go forged or go home guys but Im trying to do as much as possible on the cheap. From what I understand the 64 crank and rods are just as tough as the 63 to an extent. I was just going to get some Manley pistons for the 64 w/63 head combo for an 8.5-1 compression ratio. Theres alot of work to be done to make it work but Ive got plenty of time. Is there anyone here who has experience doing this, that has a build journal I can peek at for assistance? I searched the forums and by the time I filter through all the threads that just tag 4g64 to get people to look there isnt alot. MJCanada said he knew someone who did it with stock internals and it was putting down really impressive power. Now I cant find the thread. Thanks guys
 
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Well yes then youll have the 2.4 stroker set up but there is a couple of things that youll have to do You'll need to plug the block holes for oil drainage, an 86.5mm headgasket, either 94 galant DOHC stock cam gears or adjustable 63 gears, 94 dohc timing belt etc.
This is a very good write up on it, take the time to read it http://www.kidzuku.com/StrokeOrNot.pdf
 
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Firsts tuner said:
What about a 64 bottom end with the 63 head. I know its been done and I can get the bottom for 100? The only reason im considering this is really the price of the bottom end. I know ill have to get new pistons but I was going to need to anyway. My only real concern is the lack of oil squirters.
Click to expand...

Oil squirters can cause much more damage than they prevent. With how much oil is spewed from the rod journals, the cylinders get more than enough oil for both lubrication and cooling. But a squirter that is stuck open or opens too easily will rob the crankshaft of vital oil pressure.

And yes, the 4g64 rods are the same as 7-bolt 2g rods. But those aren't exactly known for their strength. And any stroker setup is going to put extra stress on the rods due to greater rod angle. So the extra $300 for forged rods to match those forged pistons will go a very long way.
 
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