Power loss since mechanic visit

Shnizzle · Jun 15, 2013

you guys i just took my car to a shop and had a ton of work done on it.

I got my timing fixed completely, manifold helicoiled, oil leaks fixed, fluids replaced, new valve cover, gaskets, belts etc.

MY CAR HAS LOST MOST OF ITS POWER :banghead:

i noticed how it drives incredibly smooth now when cruising compared to before but when under boost i get the following:

Crackling / sputtering
backfire
no gained power compared to cruising

i basically have the acceleration power of a regular car at a red light when im trying to go fast LOL

anyways i havent performed a boost leak test yet but its coming in the mail, (i tightened all clamps) and i havent tuned the car since the timing has been fixed. Maybe it needs a new tune? just wondering if anyone has an idea what it might be, my guess is a bad boost leak

also i just today found that my bov is atmosphere vented by previous owner so ill fix that tomorrow but i doubt thats the source of my problems because it was alot faster before the shop.

StarFawkes · Jun 15, 2013

Was your timing off before you took it to the shop? What exactly did they fix with your timing?

Shnizzle · Jun 15, 2013

StarFawkes said:
Was your timing off before you took it to the shop? What exactly did they fix with your timing?

crankshafts were 2 "clicks" off and not set correctly so they aligned it. resealed the cranks and then it ran much better

of course not including this boost issue

91-GS · Jun 16, 2013

Shnizzle said:
crankshafts were 2 "clicks" off and not set correctly so they aligned it. resealed the cranks and then it ran much better of course not including this boost issue

Crankshafts?

Do you mean crankshaft (one on the bottom)? Or camshafts (the two on top)? Or balance shafts (the two on the bottom, one has dedicated belt, one is ran by timing belt)

Shnizzle · Jun 16, 2013

91-GS said:
Crankshafts?

Do you mean crankshaft (one on the bottom)? Or camshafts (the two on top)? Or balance shafts (the two on the bottom, one has dedicated belt, one is ran by timing belt)

definitely the camshafts my bad. the ones with the gears driven by the timing belt

northernawd · Jun 16, 2013

I had my camshaft gears off by two 'ticks' and I'm only now starting to piece a motor back together. Try a compression test, then followed by a cylinder leak down test.

Dsmkauai · Jun 16, 2013

If your timings off by more than one tooth than you bent some valves my friend. Your going to need to pull the head and check the valves. But before you do that do a compression test and tell us your results.

horizontalkev · Jun 16, 2013

Are you sure you didn't get a shady mechanic, maybe lifted some parts? Check spark plugs? My old friend had a 240sx that he took in for electronical problems after a rebuild and left his car logging, when he got it back he found the mechanic had a 30 minute joyride red lining the motor several times, during its break in.

northernawd · Jun 16, 2013

Takes a mechanic that knows our motor to properly time it

Shnizzle · Jun 16, 2013

northernawd said:
I had my camshaft gears off by two 'ticks' and I'm only now starting to piece a motor back together. Try a compression test, then followed by a cylinder leak down test.

I had a compression test done before the mechanic and the results were 120 120 90 150

How bad of a problem am I looking at here?! This is worrying me now OMG

And by the way the mechanic did replace my plug wires with some unknown type perhaps those aren't up to par. He cleaned the plugs they were fouled because of the rich idle / boost

The mechanic is definitely one of the best here in vegas though as far as knowledge and skill but it takes a dsm mechanic to do this stuff I understand that.

:banghead:

EDIT: when I am stationary I can rev the engine to 7k with no sputtering if that helps?

1992 Eagle Talon TSi · Jun 16, 2013

I had similar issue with my talon, changed the spark plugs and put the correct gap on them and my problem was solved! It would cut out and sputter when under a load, but at idle would be just fine to redline.

Also I had a mechanic fix a small oil leak and change the timing belt and the other belts (I provided the belts) I went picked it up and on my way home the transmission seperated from the block and broke just about everything. I thought he did something, but it turns out it was from the previous owner only hand tightening the bell housing bolts.

AwD4g63TsI · Jun 16, 2013

Since the plug wires were "replaced", I would definitely check to see they are seated 100%. Stray arcs are pretty common in these cars with older wires, but it's strange you have the same effects with new ones...that's why I would check them from end to end and make sure everything is tight and secure.

An old '92 I had would do the same thing as yours with the sputtering. Turned out it was the plug wire boots had dry rotted and had very small cracks I couldn't see other than some white smokey looking marks on them. I dismissed them at first, but they were the cause of my sputter. The arc was jumping to the valve cover from the plug boots when I mashed the gas and caused WOT sputter.

Shnizzle · Jun 16, 2013

Ill replace sparkplugs and post results.

update: heres the wires the mechanic put on, they say : double silicone, ultimate heat protection, 7mm, MADE IN USA

Zufelt · Jun 16, 2013

Shnizzle said:
I had a compression test done before the mechanic and the results were 120 120 90 150

How bad of a problem am I looking at here?! This is worrying me now

And by the way the mechanic did replace my plug wires with some unknown type perhaps those aren't up to par. He cleaned the plugs they were fouled because of the rich idle / boost

The mechanic is definitely one of the best here in vegas though as far as knowledge and skill but it takes a dsm mechanic to do this stuff I understand that.

EDIT: when I am stationary I can rev the engine to 7k with no sputtering if that helps?

With those numbers I would say your going slow because of something internal. Your numbers are off by a quiet a bit. I believe 15psi is the max difference you'd eat to see between cylinders. Figure id point that out so it doesn't get overlooked.

jakelandry · Jun 16, 2013

Shnizzle said:
I had a compression test done before the mechanic and the results were 120 120 90 150

How bad of a problem am I looking at here?! This is worrying me now

And by the way the mechanic did replace my plug wires with some unknown type perhaps those aren't up to par. He cleaned the plugs they were fouled because of the rich idle / boost

The mechanic is definitely one of the best here in vegas though as far as knowledge and skill but it takes a dsm mechanic to do this stuff I understand that.

EDIT: when I am stationary I can rev the engine to 7k with no sputtering if that helps?

I had similar compression (lower actually) and my car still ran "good" and managed to run consistent 11's. Just something to consider.

northernawd · Jun 16, 2013

Sounds like some bent valves there buddy

Zufelt · Jun 16, 2013

jakelandry said:
I had similar compression (lower actually) and my car still ran "good" and managed to run consistent 11's. Just something to consider.

Although your numbers were lower, were they as inconsistant? As in a difference in more than 15psi in any cyl? Just curious for knowledge, I've always been told they shouldn't exceed that in any cyl.

jakelandry · Jun 16, 2013

Zufelt said:
Although your numbers were lower, were they as inconsistant? As in a difference in more than 15psi in any cyl? Just curious for knowledge, I've always been told they shouldn't exceed that in any cyl.

They shouldnt, but yes mine were worse. Mine were 115 135 80 120. Those numbers were after hooking up to a truck with jumper cables. Car ran fine and pulled great. No misses, diddnt burn oil, nothing.

91-GS · Jun 16, 2013

For the compression, put a little bit of plain clean engine oil in first three cylinders, turn the engine over few times without starting it, then re-check the compression. If it got higher, means some rings are damaged/worn. Or possibly a cracked piston. Otherwise problem is either (bent) valves, or head gasket.

What oil cap is that? Really like how it looks.

Shnizzle · Jun 16, 2013

jakelandry said:
I had similar compression (lower actually) and my car still ran "good" and managed to run consistent 11's. Just something to consider.

yeah before the mechanic i was pullin pretty hard with this compression, so if anything ill have to fix this in the long term, definitely something ill keep in the back of my head

91-GS said:
What oil cap is that? Really like how it looks.

came with the autozone replacement valve cover LOL

Zufelt said:
With those numbers I would say your going slow because of something internal. Your numbers are off by a quiet a bit. I believe 15psi is the max difference you'd eat to see between cylinders. Figure id point that out so it doesn't get overlooked.

hopefully not, i dont think so because of the pre-mechanic speed i had and now lost. Thanks for the concern though :cool:

By the way can anyone tell me if i should replace these plug wires??

1992 Eagle Talon TSi said:
I had similar issue with my talon, changed the spark plugs and put the correct gap on them and my problem was solved! It would cut out and sputter when under a load, but at idle would be just fine to redline.

im going to do this tomorrow. NGK plugs @ .28 sounds good right?

Tyeler18 · Jun 16, 2013

Those are napa brand plug wires. They should be fine.

"cleaning" plugs rarely ever works. And I'm sure he didn't regap them.

My order of diagnosis- Compression test first. If that checks out, boost leak test and replace plugs with some new BR6ES NGKs gapped at .028.

Shnizzle · Jun 16, 2013

Tyeler18 said:
Those are napa brand plug wires. They should be fine.

"cleaning" plugs rarely ever works. And I'm sure he didn't regap them.

My order of diagnosis- Compression test first. If that checks out, boost leak test and replace plugs with some new BR6ES NGKs gapped at .028.

sounds good thanks doc :thumb:

i heard the napa wires are crap though

horizontalkev · Jun 16, 2013

The napa wires are in fact crap.. Now my personal opinion my personal favorite wires are NGK.. You can't go wrong with a set of NGK wires, bought mine for $50 on Amazon.

Shnizzle · Jun 16, 2013

horizontalkev said:
The napa wires are in fact crap.. Now my personal opinion my personal favorite wires are NGK.. You can't go wrong with a set of NGK wires, bought mine for $50 on Amazon.

could they possibly be the source of my problems? OMG

horizontalkev · Jun 17, 2013

It could, yes.. Only problem is you mentioned back firing which could mean a misfire or running rich. Some of the possible culprits are faulty fpr, faulty temp sensor or even the ecu. Have you performed a blt yet?

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