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Have you seen a spark plug do this?

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bluegatorade

Proven Member
33
0
May 28, 2013
Auburn, Alabama
91 Talon. #1 spark plug (farthest on right, yes?) I have not heard this motor run yet. I am slowly resurrecting. Timing was visually lined up.
I have yet to drop pan and check bottom end nor have I really looked into cylinder to inspect walls/piston because of darkkness. I anticipate Ill be pulling the head tomorrow. What do you guys think?



see:

Image codes: sparkplug
 
Looks like an object dropped into the cylinder from above and with the piston coming up, this object was smashing into the spark plug since this object was sandwiched inbetween piston and head.

could have been an object from the turbo got sucked up the intake manifold and found its home in No.1 bore through the intake valve.

Why I'm saying this is that with carbureted cars, I've seen stuff that was sucked into the air cleaner get past the air cleaner and head into one of the bores. I took a magnetic pick-up tool and removed junk through the spark plug hole after that junk destroyed the spark plug .. like the one in the picture.

Thus, it may not be too bad.. just a dinged up piston top that's still okey to use.

good luck - DSM
 
Do you guys think a magnet and maybe a shop vac would be safe pending nothing insane once I snake a light in there?

Should I replace plugs and give it a whirl after?
 
There's no way I would run this car after discovering that. I would have pulled the head off immediately.
 
A rocker arm had fallen off and the valve and piston had a fiesta. The photo shows all the metal shavings and gouged piston.

Question 1: can I use any old piston to replace the bad one. They are all said to be Wiseco. Can I use a stock one? I anticipate many no's.

Question 2: Is it true that I must replace the Arp studs?

Is it wrong to post new questions in a thread that is resolved?

Thanks.


Image codes: damn valve
 
If they are weisco Then they will have some sort of number ingraved into the top of the piston. With that kind of damage it's really hard to say Yes only replace one piston it needs to be gone through and inspected. For the arp's you need to measure the threads on the bolts to see if they have stretched past tolerence.
 
I don't think they are Wiseco then. I'm probably gonna reuse the Arps unless there is some obvious reason to replace. With my luck though it's not lucking good.

What is the 2013 consensus on headgasket choice?
 
I would use an oem unless you want to surface the block and head for a mls gasket.
 
Im no machinist but i would take it to one and have it inspected, honed at the least. Thats a hell of a gouge. Dont use MLS, use a composite, especially if you have any trace of a nick on top. IDK, thats brutal though.
 
I wouldn't use a brand new cometic, let alone one that's already been compressed.

Just get a composite HG and call it a day.
 
With that kind of damage I would defiantly have the block and head inspected before I got to worried about what head gasket to use.

This^

As part of buying the car I was also given a whole other junk motor. Luckily that head was in good shape so it gave me a head that I took to the machine shop to be given a valve job.

Looks like tomorrow Ill be taking the other block as well and pull this one out. Might as well start fresh since everything's out. I've got to figure out how to do this without an engine hoist LOL.
 
if you have 1-2 decent floor jacks and jack stands you can easily drop the motor/transmission out the bottom.
 
Use the oem composite gasket. The arp studs are fine, they would have broken if they were not. They dont stretch, thats the point.,
 
Use the oem composite gasket. The arp studs are fine, they would have broken if they were not. They dont stretch, thats the point.,

Completely wrong answer. ARP headstuds do not break. They do actually stretch with repeated use depending on torque loads and boost levels. I don't know where your getting your info from.

OP: You can reuse standard ARP's multiple times. As long as they haven't stretched past thier limit, you will be fine. If your bringing the block and head to get checked, just have them deck and resurface to the proper RA finish needed to go MLS. A MLS will hold more than a composite, although composites can hold a lot as long as the tune allows for it. I'd recommend a OEM composite, or a OEM MLS or Felpro Permatorque MLS. Both these MLS gaskets have proven to hold big boost. Just make sure the surface area is to the proper spec as stated earlier.

And reusing a MLS is possible, but not suggested. I am actually running a re-used Permatorqe at 40+ pounds with zero issue, but It still had all the coating, and I copper spray it like always.
 
if you have 1-2 decent floor jacks and jack stands you can easily drop the motor/transmission out the bottom.

I wanted to do this so bad. However after assessing everything and crunching numbers I decided to have a shop down the road come and get it. I figured they could come the mile down the road to come get the car and take to the shop. pull the motor and trans and check everything out and take the block to where the head is and hone it out.

I felt this was the best move for me since I don't have a hoist, jack stands, floor jack, etc. I was good doing everything from the head up but I really don't want to half ass it and I have ZERO help. I'm a loner and don't have any friends to help muscle. pity party LOL. I don't have a timing gun either so all these little things are adding up. Granted, I want those tools money blah blah.

The main reason I wanted to pull it all out is this picture


Image codes: missing a tooth

I'm no expert but I wonder if this caused the original jumped timing?
Regardless. I could never relax knowing that was like that. Forgive me for having the wrong nomenclature but that is the crank gear that turns the timing belt. Fortunately I have another crankshaft if that gear can't be replaced. I don't know how that is built.

Here is a pic of my project

Image codes: gimme head


On a related note, today when I went to tiger tire and auto here in Auburn, I asked the guy about my situation. He was pretty cool about it. In fact, he said he knew a guy and said (and Im paraphrasing every so
slightly) " Yeah I have a friend that used to build these here in town" and that " he used to be on the boards (internet forums) and build them for people in Canada" or something similar.

He said he was gonna call him tonight and let me know whats up. I think he wanted to call the guy I think to kind of see how difficult these are to tune? In any case it all seems pretty neat.

Who is this DSM wise man that lives in the south? Im in Auburn so my radius includes: opelika, columbus, la grange, montgomery, etc.
Show yourself! Someone tell me who he is!

Thank you guys for all your advice. great community here on dsmtuners.
 
Last edited:
The crank gear can be replaced, JNZtuning.com. OEM Crankshaft Sprocket : JNZ Tuning

If you don't know already, that was the bolt threads that hold the crank pulley in place. Must have been overtorqued or something and fractured. I would be concerned where that piece went and could very well have caused the timing issue.

There's your problem right there- Fram oil filter.

Instructions: Unscrew from housing. Place on floorboard in truck. Drive to local shooting range. Use filter as bright orange target for your large caliber weapon of choice.
...We're not done yet.
Remove target (for God sakes don't run out there with people still shooting -the filter would win). Place the once-a-filter on the hard solid pavement of a semitruckers equivalent to the Autobahn.

Sleep at night is now restored.
 
Last edited:
You can drop the tranny, then remove the head and all the accessories and brackets from the engine. Once you do that you will be able to lift the block out with the help of one set of hands. If you haven't already had the shop pick it up you will shave a good chuck of change by doing that part yourself.
 
There's your problem right there- Fram oil filter.

Instructions: Unscrew from housing. Place on floorboard in truck. Drive to local shooting range. Use filter as bright orange target for your large caliber weapon of choice.
...We're not done yet.
Remove target (for God sakes don't run out there with people still shooting -the filter would win). Place the once-a-filter on the hard solid pavement of a semitruckers equivalent to the Autobahn.

Sleep at night is now restored.

I wish all instructions were like this. Which filter you recommend?

That shop never called me. I said F it and bought some jack stands and a floor jack from wally world. Held up the trans with a bottle jack I had and removed the water pump and dropped the block out the bottom with the flywheel attached. Jacked the car up on stands and pulled the block out. I would have liked to had a hoist but I got it all out. I'm going to rebuild it now. I think with a friends help I can put it back in this way if I take my time.

I have another block that has four good pistons and rods in it. Ive considered using it and having a stock bottom. I really want to get a wiseco replacement though just for the sake of having it along with the eagle rods I haven't confirmed yet.

I want to do this right so I would need a full gasket set, timing belt, and belt tensioner,new piston, and rings.Most def the crankshaft sprocket recommended. What else am I missing? I am compiling a more in depth checklist today while researching just asking. [insert vendor here]

I'm gonna harbor freight an engine stand and pull her apart in the spare bedroom. I love my girlfriend for not GAF. I will learn more about this block and will update.

Here's my head after the valve job!

Image codes: clean head

Image codes: clean head 2

Thanks guys.
 
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