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Tips for building bumper, side exit exhaust?

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It was too hot. I'd turn it down to 15 amps and it was still getting the metal way too hot. I thought maybe it was just me screwing it up. Figured I was moving to slow but if I sped up, my bead would look like crap. So whatcha see is on the pipe is me doing my best with a screwed up welding machine. It really became apparent that there was a problem when I couldn't do outside corner joints. Had my instructor at school try and do it and he was messing up. He thought he was just getting old and couldn't see it so we had 2 other guys try it on my machine, both with the same results. As soon as I swapped to another machine, I was welding like I wanted and was suppose to. So, next time I do this, my welds should look much better. I think I was doing tig for about a month when I made this.
 
When I first did it, I had it too close to the bottom side of the hole on the bumper and it melted it a little. BUT, I had the windows down and I was able to smell it. I stopped the car and let it cool down a bit and then went home and readjusted the exhaust pipe and it was fine. It only got hot though when I went wot. I had been cruising around town a good bit for some tuning and didn't give me any issues until I went wot a few times. Also, you can't really see any damage. It was very minor and on the bottom side of the pipe.

Anyway, after readjusting it, it didn't give me anymore problems. The edge of the hole was maybe a 1/4" away from the pipe all the way around after adjusting it. I can't measure it right now though cause the engine is out and putting another one in. I'm gonna have to make another exhaust but the hole will be the same size and same muffler tip. I'll take some more pics though when I get a chance of the bumper and stuff. Maybe add to this when I do another pipe and the improvements I make. It should be fairly soon.
 
Alrighty, so it's about that time to get my car started up after changing my setup again. This time going with an FP manifold and an FP, Dsm86 bolt-on turbo. The outlet on the turbo is 2.5" versus the 3" that was on the BEP housing for my Holset. And the FP manifold puts the turbo in a different location that my other turbo setup....just slightly.

Anyway, the hole in mine (cause someone asked me) is 5 inches. The exhaust tip being 4.5", which gives me 1/4" of clearance around the tip. So better get your cutting and welding right. Lol. At the bottom of the hole, you can barely see where my exhaust was resting because I didn't have the exhaust positioned correctly when I mounted it and had to rotate it some to get it centered (after I smelled the plastic burning after a wot pull).
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Now a word about the oil filter housing. I have Darren's filter housing from FFWD, and it's an awesome product for clearance on a car with a rear exit exhaust, and less clutter under the hood and all. But because of the side exit exhaust, clearance is an issue between my 3" i/c piping and the filter.
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I welded a curved part right off the turbo, but after installing my intercooler and piping, that's when I noticed my clearance issue. And from this pic, you can see where I'm gonna have to cut part of the pipe off, extend it, and THEN make the pipe face downwards, on the other side of the oil filter.
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I don't want a pipe that transitions from 2.5" to 4.5" so I bought a 2.5" to 3" transition right off the turbo. I got this piece from Forced Performance for about $42 if I remember right. But boy is the clearance tight...
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Since the clearance is tight, I had to ding the pipe to make room for the wastegate clamp. And forgive my welds. This is the 1st time I've welded anything in about a year now.
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Just another view with no intercooler or radiator in the way, with wastegate installed. Notice how I'm gonna have to extend the exhaust piping to go past the oil filter. Gonna be a slow process though cause I have to do all this at work after I'm done working. Cut, tack, check clearance, then welded or recut, etc. Sigh...
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This is all for now. I'll post more when I have updates. Stay tuned.
 
That sucks with that filter there, that's throwing a knot in the whole situation. I'm sure you don't want to change the ofh on the car so you will have to work around it. Trying to go between the oil filter and the PS pump I think is a bad idea due to heat and how tight the clearances will be but after looking from the front you might be able to squeeze it in there and header wrap it.
 
Okay so I'm not 100% done yet but I've done a lot since my last post. Basically, I just need to weld the tip on at the proper angle so that it's not hitting the bumper at all. But here's what I've done so far.

I went ahead and extended the pipe so that it goes beyond the oil filter housing. It has a slight bend off the turbo, then 9 inches of straight pipe, and then bends downward after the oil filter.
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Test fit after the downward turn.
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I made a cut so that the angle is right so that it exits towards the direction of the hole in the bumper, but then there's all this gap. So what to do???
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Solution? Measure the amount of gap, then draw a triangle that's the width of the gap, towards the center of the pipe.
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Next, cut the triangle area out, then bend the pipe together and weld. But the problem with that is when you bend the pipe together, it's not flat. So you have to cut off any excess to get it flat again.
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This is where I'm at right now.
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It's been a year since I've picked up a welder so my beads aren't the greatest. But it'll hold. I also hate the welder I'm using cause there's no foot pedal. Instead, I have a switch to turn it on and off. And when I'm done welding, I can't find the switch to turn it back off. It's difficult to hold the switch while welding, and I'm also pulse welding, which I've never done before. This is a first.

Also, when I dented the pipe to make room for the wastegate, it bent the v-band flange so it was egg shaped. I'm having fun trying to make sure it's close to being round as possible. I won't be doing that again if I make another. I'll just use a smalled diameter pipe. Oh well. Anyway, this is all for now. Hope to finish up sometime next week.
 
GOD, I WANT A SIDE EXIT! I just like my AC, cant have both i suppose..
Great looking work though. Nice car
 
Thanks, and it depends on your setup. I could've done it without the alternator relocation if I had an intercooler that had piping to one side versus both sides, like mine. The intercooler piping is the main problem but it does make it easier without an alternator there.
 
Nice work Scott.

Just wanted to let you know, I spoke with a close friend last night about a 2.0l - DSM86 2g he tuned yesterday. The car hits 32psi by 4300 RPM and it's flowing 61lbs/min...

Of course he's running E85 and a built long block but, DAMN. OMG

:dsm:
 
I don't have E85 around here and at the moment, I'm using a motor from the salvage yard until I get my other motor built. That one will be a 2.3 with a butcher crank, aluminum rods, 10.0 compression, cams, etc. The motor I'm using right now is completely stock minus the balance shaft delete and ARP's.

I'll be posing up videos when I get a chance. I installed the exhaust that I have done so far and fired it up, but it doesn't wanna run if it's anything less than 3k rpms. I think my alternator is bad or maybe bad connection. Gonna research the issue tonight or tomorrow. Back to welding next week...after I clean off the exhaust inside the pipe.
 
This is the side exit I built to go along with my new turbo. I kept my Thermal R&D cat back and built a new down pipe from scratch, full 3" to replace the 2.5" I had.

Not nearly as pretty as some others but it looks ok for flux core and for the most part, most of it is not seen. I used a DMH 3" electric cutout for the side exit.

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Alrighty, I'm back again. So I had some issues with the vband flange. It got egg shaped when I had to ding the exhaust to make clearance for the wastegate. I was trying to think of ideas but I fixed it. For more on that, you can check this thread if you want but don't feel like typing it all over again in here....

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/465126-vband-problem-solutions-anyone.html

Anyyyyyywho, the tip was never welded on so I worked on that some today. I bolted the exhaust up, and then had to center it at the bumper. Tubes of Loctite helped me out with that.
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While it was centered, I took my Sharpie and made the marks I needed to make so that I'd know where to weld. Took it all out, and drove it over to work and did a few tack welds to make sure I got it right. Yep, I got the tacks in the correct place. So tomorrow I'm gonna do the final weld and it'll be done.
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But this is basically it and all I'm posting up for now until I can get some vids and such. Also, the last one I made stuck out an inch. This time I decided to go half an inch. I like the look better, and I also didn't have to cut the muffler components out this time either. So I'm anxious to see how this all sounds with the new setup and going wot :D

Okay, that's it for now.
 
Sweet dude! Freaking awesome!!! Im waiting for a video to hear how it sounds I have been departing doing this forever!!! Please submit videos please :)
 
Might be awhile before I can get any vids going. My wideband is giving me issues and not wanting to work right, and since it's simulating a narrowband, I kind of need it to work. About ready to throw it in the trash and get another. But the cash just isn't there for it right now :(
 
I have a huge boost leak that needs to be fixed and lawn mower to buy so I can mow the grass, but it's now running. Here's a start. Loving the sound of my new Dsm86 turbo spooling though btw.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGbOs701U4g]Dsm86 start up. - YouTube[/ame]
 
Well here's another. Just walking around the car at idle. I obviously still have work to do with the tune and boost leaks and such though. But can hear it spooling just at idle.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SnZLv21E5gM]Dsm86 walk around - YouTube[/ame]
 
I wouldn't say exactly the same. Lol. I have aftermarket wheels, clear tails and front corners, silver Mitsu emblem on the front, and of course, the side exit.

I used a muffler tip with a 4" inlet and 4.5" outlet I believe. Piping is 3" and had to get a 3" to 4" transition pipe to make it work. It's loud, but when I made the same pipe earlier in this thread, I took out any kind of muffler stuff. I can tell a difference.

And just to be clear, I left the muffling guts inside the pipe this time.
 
Measured, cut hole, built exhaust and routed to hole. And yeah, green dsm's rule. Lol.
 
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