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Should I buy this short block?

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bpk1337

15+ Year Contributor
116
5
Oct 28, 2008
Phoenix, Arizona
Hey Guys, hopefully I am posting this in the right spot. I found this deal on a short block from a guy that lives down the street from me. He is asking $1500 for it. It still had the plastic on it from the machine shop when I got there to check it out. The add said 0.020" over Ross pistons and Manley connecting rods, but he didn't have a receipt for them. The stamp on the top of the piston check out as they say 99877 on them which indicate that they are indeed Ross pistons.

Is there anyway to tell which rods he used exactly without taking the short block apart?

I also noticed one of the crush washers on an oil squirter has been deformed. I assume this will need to be replaced?

Sorry about the crap cell phone quality pics..

I'm going to stop by his place to get one last look and possibly pick it up this Friday. Let me know what you guys think! Thanks in advance :thumb: !
 

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i would switch to arp studs if you do buy it.

I would advise against it, due to the fact the block has be line bored at this time.

The rods are some sort if H beam, Scat, manley, Eagle.. But they do have ARP rod bolts.

You are spot on with the crush washer, that needs to be changed out, and the other 3 looked at closely.

From the invoice date, 12/2009 you may want to pull the rod and main caps and put a few drops of fresh oil, and make sure the bearing faces have not oxidized.
 
I would advise against it, due to the fact the block has be line bored at this time.

The rods are some sort if H beam, Scat, manley, Eagle.. But they do have ARP rod bolts.

You are spot on with the crush washer, that needs to be changed out, and the other 3 looked at closely.

From the invoice date, 12/2009 you may want to pull the rod and main caps and put a few drops of fresh oil, and make sure the bearing faces have not oxidized.

Thanks for the response Bogus. Would you mind explaining to me what the negatives are with a line bore?
 
No neg about it, the line bore was done with those bolts, if you swap to studs, the line bore should be checked again, and the block may need to be line bored again.
 
No neg about it, the line bore was done with those bolts, if you swap to studs, the line bore should be checked again, and the block may need to be line bored again.

Oh, interesting. Looks like I'll stay with those studs then so I don't have to deal with bringing the whole thing back to a machine shop.

Do you think the current studs will hold okay? Say I am aiming at the 400 hp rage?

How difficult will it be to repair and check the rest of the oil squirters? Will I have to remove anything else to get to them or could I just oil everything up and turn the crank to get it out of the way? This is my first engine build. Sorry for the noobness I just want to make sure I do everything right the first time haha.
 
Order in 8 new crush washers.

Pull the rod and main caps, take a marker and write 1, 2, 3, 4 on the rod caps so you will know what rod them came off.

pull the oil squirters, install new crush washers ( torque 26 ft/lbs)

oil the bearings, install the crank, torque the rods and mains.
 
You have nothing worry about. Stock mains are perfectly fine. Its one of those things I don't understand why people change them when they are doing such mild builds (sub 600hp.) We don't really have lower end failures or problems with the main bolts stretching or anything.
 
the invoice didnt list new main studs so i suggested it just to make sure they werent old
 
They look like factory main bolts... and if the OP is shooting for 400HP, doubt the main bolts will be an issue.
 
Order in 8 new crush washers.

Pull the rod and main caps, take a marker and write 1, 2, 3, 4 on the rod caps so you will know what rod them came off.

pull the oil squirters, install new crush washers ( torque 26 ft/lbs)

oil the bearings, install the crank, torque the rods and mains.

You have nothing worry about. Stock mains are perfectly fine. Its one of those things I don't understand why people change them when they are doing such mild builds (sub 600hp.) We don't really have lower end failures or problems with the main bolts stretching or anything.

:thumb: Thanks guys!
 
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