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Need help with my GS-T Eclipse

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Jmoor99

Probationary Member
9
0
Jun 10, 2013
Oceanside, California
I have been struggling with many problems with my car since my timing belt broke in my drive way. I found the problem of the broken timing belt to be a hard to turn oil pump sprocket. This is all new to me and I'm just trying to get direction on what to do next. By the way the oil pump sprocket almost turns completely around but it sticks in one area, I have looked to see if it catches on the front case but it does not. My question is could it be that its sat so long that its lost all lubrication making it so it doesn't turn very well (I have cleaned the sprocket/pulley) and this made it turn much better but it still sticks in one spot. Should I drop the oil pan? and take a gander around. Any helpful advice would be awesome:hellyeah: If you'd rather come by an take a look message me and you can come by. Thank you in advance.
 
I can still turn it by hand but like i said it sticks quite a bit to where I need to push a lot harder than around the rest of the rotation? would the belt be able to turn it if I'm able to turn it by hand? it just makes me nervous to put everything back together and it skip timing.
 
would the belt be able to turn it if I'm able to turn it by hand? it just makes me nervous to put everything back together and it skip timing.

The belt can turn the cam gears, try and turn those by hand. How does the oil pump sprocket feel compared to the balance shaft sprocket when turning? There should be some resistance but it should feel smooth no grinding or anything.
 
One of my cam gears is snapping into place, crank is in time. when I turn the cam from 12oclock it will snap to about 4oclock and continue til 12oclock again, that was another one of my questions. Is that normal? I was going to oil and try again and see if it helps. (belt is off by the way). balance shaft is the little one to the left of the crank sprocket correct?
 
One of my cam gears is snapping into place, crank is in time. when I turn the cam from 12oclock it will snap to about 4oclock and continue til 12oclock again, that was another one of my questions. Is that normal? I was going to oil and try again and see if it helps. (belt is off by the way). balance shaft is the little one to the left of the crank sprocket
you really shouldn't turn the cams without the timing belt on.Probably gonna bend a valve like that. Resistance on the cam is from the lobe opening a valve and the jump is from the spring forcing the valve shut( also not a good thing). The balance shaft has an offset weight to it. That could be the resistance you're feeling when you turn it. Probably not an issue, unless it feels rough, or rachety if that makes sense.
 
So am I in shits creek or just don't turn the things anymore? Once I put the timing belt on will everything turn good if the only problem is the cam resistance I explained and the oil pump sprocket's little resistance which isn't a whole lot being I can turn it by hand
 
So now I'm having a new problem, everything is on belt/tensioners pulleys idlers all new and auto tensioner. but it seems that there still is not enough tension and its ridiculous tight. but really not at the bottom where the front case is
 
So now I'm having a new problem, everything is on belt/tensioners pulleys idlers all new and auto tensioner. but it seems that there still is not enough tension and its ridiculous tight. but really not at the bottom where the front case is

What is ridiculous tight? With everything set at zero mechanically the belt may seem a little loose. If you're sure it is all timed right spin it over by hand about 3 or 4 times and check belt deflection. If it is too loose you may need to preload the idler pulley a little more, if that's the right term. How much protrusion do you have on the tensioner pushrod?
 
On the cams it is really tight, but down on the oil pump sprocket and crank it is much more loose. I've taken it apart three times now and it still just lets the oil pump spin freely due to lack of tightness. It is at specification I've also tried the idler pulley, does it matter which way the bearing with pin holes face?
 
o/p please provide pictures and please be using a Chiltons Haynes like stated above, also please for the love of DSM's have someone with you doing this that has some knowledge on this stuff, im not saying your not able to do these things but seems like you need someone with you.
 
Got the belt tension correct I measured. Now the timing marks aren't lining up perfectly after I hand crank the motor over in six revolutions.
 
Second time today, I'll try again tomorrow til I get it right. Thanks for all the help guys. I'll update you if I get it running :D
 
So when my oil pump seized up causing the belt to break. Turns out I not only bent a few valves one completely snapped off. I have no money for the head to be rebuilt (I'm sure I could possibly do it, but have no money for a machine shop or parts. so I guess its off to the junkyard. Loved this damn car to. Sorry dsm buddies :(
 
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