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need help. car shuts off after a pull and put in neutral

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faulkner

Proven Member
191
1
Apr 22, 2013
spring lake, Michigan
okay. if i am driving normal doing the speed limit all the time my car runs great. good afr's. but if i do a pull say second third gear pull and than i let off and goto neutral the rpm's go down to zero and the car shuts off. right after it will turn right back on. no idea what the problem is? please help. lot of disrespectful people on this site stay away if your going to be a dick. need good help. thank you.
 
Find and repair any vacuum leaks. Especially leaks at or after the throttle body. If the problem persists, test the ISC motor and then adjust the idle. 2G BISS Adjustment
 
I'd once again recommend a boost leak test. Use a spray bottle with soapy water and spray down the couplers and anything else that has a connection, spray the injector seals, throttle body, vac hoses, bov...

Also, as told again, test the intercooler piping seperate from the throttle body and motor.

And in regards to your bov question in the other thread. You shouldn't need to have the set screw wrenched all the way down. You could have it set so hard its only doing a partial open and not recirculating like it should. I'd back it all the way out and go from there after another blt

What lb spring is in the bov? I also thought you had a crushed 1g?
 
i got a new bov. i will loosen it. i got a bottle of starting fluid and did a leak test on all of my fmic piping, couplers, throttle body, and vaccumes. nothing changed the idle...
 
Well that's a start... but 15-20 psi of boost can cause blow by on something that doesn't leak at idle, that's why they make a boost leak tester... to test pipes and fittings under "boost" conditions.

In all honesty most of the threads (the 3 or 4 now) all sound like an unresolved boost leak issue that you've now done the no no on, by throwing money and parts at it.

No amount of threads started is going to help if you don't come back with results.
A) in another thread you said you slapped a blt tester on a bottle and it shot off, then you said you just put it on the car and held zero... I in turn asked if you did the test at tbdc, no answer.
B) you never answered back about testing the pipes seperate from the motor, do the pipes hold the motor doesn't? Still also un answered
C) you changed the bov, and also turned the set screw all the way in to "hold max pressure" what exactly is max pressure? I just asked what spring came in the bov, still no answer... if its adjustable between 10-30psi and you crank it down only running 15psi, seems useless...

I'm not trying to be rude, but this is thread xxxxx about this issue and no real results coming back, just "I sprayed some starter fluid all over my bay"

Last note. If the car didn't die before the new bov and now it does... its the bov not opening to recirculate because you wrenched it down before you probably even installed it and tested it.
 
yeah my BLT resulted in holding 30 lbs steady. all new couplers on my fmic piping.

my car was at 24psi with all of the past problems. i want to run 20. but with it shutting off like this im set at 15.

and im not sure what spring came in by bov. i didnt disect it before installing it.

looked up the specs. bov said -dual , spring system , fully adjustable
 
If its a dual spring greddy or greddy type knockoff, there have been write ups about the dual spring being too heavy to actuate correctly and it states you can remove the small spring. BUT you need to rule out that it is in fact the bov not recirculating, or not recirculating enough to keep it from spiking rich and killing itself.

You should b able to pull the recirc line with the car at idle and give it throttle and let off at and see the valve inside moving. If it doesn't its too stiff. You can give it throttle at the throttle body so you can see it. Try adjusting it with the knob first, then I'd say pull it and work with the springs.

One other indicator of a bov that's too stiff is if it makes a flutter sound rather than a full release of the air... this is the vacuum and spring fighting to open and close with each other
 
Okay yes, before it was making a flutter both on my 1g bov and this
New one I bought. Now I loosened it up a bit and now it makes a releasing
Air sound instead of a flutter. It is recirculated. Should I still check if it
Opens like it should?
 
These problem happends to me it's just weird I tied to do adjustments on the tps, isc, and biss. The problem is still there. Do you have an problem when you press the cluch in when in neutral, does your rpm get low?
 
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