Here we go, while driving one time, the clutch wont engage/disengage, so i readjusted the clutch through the pedal assembly according to vfaq, after a few hundred miles, i smell burnt clutch and just today while driving to work the clutch wont engage/didengage again, tried re adjusting the clutch pedal again but no luck. When the car is turned off i can put it to any gear, but not if the car is turned on. So i drove it back to my house in 3rd gear and sometimes i can put it to 4th gear with ease, but cannot go back to 3rd... I search crankwalk and most of the symptoms i'm having minus the left turn thing.. Where should i start? I dont want to take the engine off just to check if i have a crankwalk. Is there any way to test without taking the head or the engine off?

any help?

Check the end play at the harmonic balancer. Sounds like its just a bad clutch.

Hopefully just my clutch, I'm currently rebuilding the engine at the moment. Putting evo8 piston and rings, replacing all bearings as well and might as well do the balance shaft delete. I'll post up whats the outcome, thanks..

I don't see what this has to do with crankwalk. If you're doing a teardown anyways, you'll easily be able to tell. You don't really want to be beyond .007

It sounds like you've had bad hydraulics and you adjusted your clutch incorrectly causing it to slip. Again, you'll be able to tell us all about it if you've got everything apart right now.

When clutches go bad, they tend to slip (revs up while accelerating, eg, low rpm, high gear wot) because they are worn down. Clutches can slip due to improper adjustment as well. This sounds more like an issue with the master or slave cylinder or air in the lines. I'd check for fluid leakage near both and bleed the lines.

You might want to watch this vid too:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw[/ame]

Thats what i did on the video, but forgot to do that on a couple of hundred miles when i replaced my clutch master cylinder.. Lol.. I will the car down this weekend. Thanks

If you don't address the hydraulic issue, your new clutch is going to do the same thing and you'll be back at square one...

It might just be air in the lines, in which case, installing a new clutch might fix the problem only because you'll have to bleed the lines. Kinda like killing an ant with a sledge hammer...

c2ypt1c said:

If you don't address the hydraulic issue, your new clutch is going to do the same thing and you'll be back at square one...

It might just be air in the lines, in which case, installing a new clutch might fix the problem only because you'll have to bleed the lines. Kinda like killing an ant with a sledge hammer...

Click to expand...

I will do everything from scratch. Bleeding the clutch and doing the proper clutch adjustment. Thanks

PieEyedPiper said:

I don't see what this has to do with crankwalk.

Click to expand...

+ our nation's deficit.

It blows me away to see that word pop up any time anything happens to a 2G.

I just sold a set of mains for a '78 350 Chev in a guy's motor home last week...had .018" of end play despite being bolted to an automatic trans. Wonder what caused his thrust wear....maybe the brakes needed to be bled.

jusmx141 said:

....maybe the brakes needed to be bled.

Click to expand...

!!!

JusMX141 said:

+ our nation's deficit.

It blows me away to see that word pop up any time anything happens to a 2G.

I just sold a set of mains for a '78 350 Chev in a guy's motor home last week...had .018" of end play despite being bolted to an automatic trans. Wonder what caused his thrust wear....maybe the brakes needed to be bled.

Click to expand...

I know lots of people here hates that word, but any other term when the crank had too much play in it? about brake bleeding?

He's mocking you for your non sequitur.

Like what has been stated above, sounds like hydraulic issues. When you replaced the master did you do the slave also? On my dsms I usually do both at the same time and stick with mitsu parts. Ive used aftermarket masters and slaves and with the heavier clutches I've had issues with them not holding on my 1g, my 2g had terrible engagement issues i was constantly readjusting the master till finally I put in an actual mitsu master and slave and never had another problem. Other than a now notchy 2 nd from the after market master and slave.

newtodsm97gst said:

I know lots of people here hates that word, but any other term when the crank had too much play in it?

Click to expand...

Crank thrust wear- but this is a term generally used only by those who have actually measured their crank end play and determined it's out-of-spec before claiming to have crank walk.

JusMX141 said:

Crank thrust wear- but this is a term generally used only by those who have actually measured their crank end play and determined it's out-of-spec before claiming to have crank walk.

Click to expand...

i see, thanks