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Replacing Narrowband with Wideband

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horizontalkev

Supporting VIP
1,001
2
Jun 28, 2010
great bend, Kansas
Do I completely replace the narrowband with the wideband? I want to replace stock 02 sensor with wideband and simulate narrowband.. Is that correct?

EDIT -RESOLVED- Caved in and bought a bung from Oriellys for $3.50 and will weld it in myself. Much easier, my headache is almost gone
 
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Your changing your stock 02 for a wide band? Whats the reason, why don't you run your wideband separate?

Because then you don't have to have a bung welded into the downpipe or deal with a delayed signal from the rear spot.

Out of curiosity, which wideband are you installing?
 
Thanks for that pin out. And the reason for replacing the stock o2 with wideband sensor is I don't want to deal with welding right now.. Its the innovate LC1. Only other problem I have is grounding, I heard you need a perfect ground otherwise the readings will be off, can I ground to engine block? And how do I set up the calibration button? I want it to be set up where I can just press the button to recalibrate anytime without regrounding or rewiring anything. I bought it used so nothing but a cd came with it. (just downloaded a manual) thanks
 
Last i checked it cost me like $15 to weld a bung hole at the exhaust shop. I would leave the stock front o2 alone. lc-1 is a darn good gauge I doubt you have a problem with it being on the downpipe as people have done it for years. Just follow the lc-1 install instruction in the manual or online manual.
 
I just got an LC-1 up and running for a 1g. I used Sno's guide and also took some info from the ECMlink guide.

If you replace the stock NB/O2 sensor and are using ECMlink (I assume you are), make sure to setup the narrowband simulation properly.

I integrated the calibration button/LED into my car's dash down near my feet. It's quick to calibrate and the LED will always be there to confirm the system is working as it should.

I did something similar to what rEclipserGST did (although mine's not as clean cos my car's gutted and has no dash :coy:)....

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Be aware that if the lc1 controller is set up for both outputs to generate a wideband signal, without link's easy nb sim, your car will run like ass and won't cycle closed to open loop very well. You may need to reprogram your controller via the laptop app. I found this to be the case on my 2g(no link) with my used lc1 controller. I eventually went back and welded a bung in my downpipe.
 
Be aware that if the lc1 controller is set up for both outputs to generate a wideband signal, without link's easy nb sim, your car will run like ass and won't cycle closed to open loop very well. You may need to reprogram your controller via the laptop app. I found this to be the case on my 2g(no link) with my used lc1 controller. I eventually went back and welded a bung in my downpipe.

I asked if the car the wideband came from had link installed and I was told no. Only way to check the controller settings is by laptop + cd that came with the lc1 right? I really miss the non turbo days, so much simpler LOL
 
This has been covered. You must use lm config 3.15(?) to program BOTH outputs, yellow and brown, for a 0-5v reading. The way it ships only one is WB the other is NB.
 
This has been covered. You must use lm config 3.15(?) to program BOTH outputs, yellow and brown, for a 0-5v reading. The way it ships only one is WB the other is NB.

And yes it has, and I have researched it over and over again with different views on the whole thing. Everybody has different instructions
 
And yes it has, and I have researched it over and over again with different views on the whole thing. Everybody has different instructions

If you're logging w/ECMlink V3, this is the correct way to do it. Straight from ECMlink themselves.......LC-1 analog config.

It's how I have it setup and it works perfect.

And those pics are another member's, I just did something very similar, but I don't have pics of my own setup :)
 
Well I don't have ECMlink (future upgrade) can I still simulate NB signal to my stock ECU without problems?

No, you can't, because the ECU won't know what to do with the signal. ECMlink is what facilitates O2 sensor simulation.

At this point, you can either wait for ECMlink or plug the WB into a different bung.
 
I had nothing but trouble trying to run narrow band simulation but i am using the aem EUGO witch is known to cause problems. Ended u just welding in another bung and running a factory o2 bung only cost me $12.
 
Dangit I guess, I just don't want to wait for more parts I want to drive again LOL.. But I can weld myself.. Where can I buy a bung from? I've searched but can't find anything

EDIT Found them at oriellys for $3.50 hell yeah
 
It does; you can change the LC-1 analogs through V3.15. However, the ECU still won't be able to read the signal properly and won't know what to do.


you sure about that? It does have a NB sim built in the (lambda?) box or whatever its called. The way it comes out of the box without touching lmconfig should be good for you. You want the NB 0-1vdc signal to ecu front o2 and the WB 0-5vdc running to the gauge. Im pretty sure it works.....
 
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