I recently bought a motor from craigslist (6 bolt) and put it in my 95 gst. I had about an hour of idle time on it with no leaks and everything was fine. I took it out for a test drive and upon return it was leaking oil pretty severly from the rear main seal area so i pulled the transmission and removed the oil seal. The seal looks like nothing is wrong with it. Another thing to add is that when I pulled back into my garage i noticed that their was what seemed to be a slight lifter tick. I am assuming that because the rear main seal was leaking which i believe it was that the head must not have been getting enough psi causing the tick. My question is, is there anything else in this area that could cause it to leak that much oil their was no oil residue above the rear main if that helps.

ps i did notice a tinny groove on the none lobe side of the cam with the cam sensor on it. The lobes are all fine though no burns or gouges.

Only other thing there is the oil galley plug to the right of the rear main.

Its there

I would make the argument that a leaking rear main seal and lifter tick have pretty much nothing to do with each other.

Inspect the sealing surfaces and install a new seal. Stop trying to "connect the dots" .
Chances are the seal was just bad/old and you'll be good to go with a replacement.
Let us know how it goes!

EDIT: Don't forget to oil up that seal a little when installing. I forgot the last time and it was a bit of a bi*** to get in there smoothly.

Sorry for the " connect the dot" syndrome but this is my first build and when stuff like that happens it happens I get worried. The only thing that made me think that is just the timing of bothto start at the same ttime. I'm going to be home Monday to check everything out further.

Also ensure that your vent hose from the valve cover is unclogged/unrestricted. If your crankcase is somehow not venting, a little crankcase pressure can push out a seal in no time.

Or a pcv stuck open under boost can do the same.

So just got home from vacation and went to check the oil galley plug and it came out by my finger so i am gonna say that's where the leak is coming from. The rear main looks fine but seems to be missing a retaing piece that it is supposed to have on the seal I have to find the partnumber which iI will do in the morning. My question is will Teflon tape work to seal the oil galley plug or should I get some type of liquid thread locker?

Teflon will be just fine. Just run a couple layers and good to go.

I put enough on there to where it was tight.

No teflon.

Defiant said:

Teflon tape is excellent for plumbing. In houses and lawn sprinklers.

Use automotive products in automobiles, particularly in the oiling system. For things like nipples into castings, Permatex Non-Hardening. Just a little on the threads, not enough to squooge out more than a pencil-lead's width- if you can wipe it off, it's not doing anything.

As terefic181 says, things like AN fittings, flare fittings and compression fittings don't need sealer- the design of the interface is its own sealing surface, and the threads aren't in contact with areas of leakage.

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Defiant said:

I just don't like those little worms that Teflon gets cut into. Particularly in the oiling system.

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Below is a correspondence between two, other automotive board members discussing the use of teflon.

"Teflon tape has no sealing properties of it's own. Teflon tape helps lubricate the threads to making them easier to seat properly. In the case of pipe threads, the threads are tapered and seal by wedging against each other. Straight threads aren't designed the same way, so in the case of a drain plug on an oilpan, the sealing surface is the bottom of the plug (a crush washer, o-ring, fibre gasket, etc.)"

"Actually the Teflon tape does have the ability to flow into imperfections in the pipe thread during tightening and help seal the leak paths. It also often sheds particles and shredded tape into the fluid which is why one should never use Teflon tape in hydraulic or lubricating systems.

EDIT- Many people think that oil pan plugs must be "gorilla tight" which also causes many problems. Teflon tape just makes that situation much worse because of that lubricating property. "

Defiant said:

Teflon is a
LUBRICANT.
duh.​

Teflon tape is for toilet repairs. It has no use on an automobile, and never on an engine. Permatex has sealing products for such use, both hardening and pliable.
Loc-Tite is for securing threaded fasteners. It's far too available to ever try to continue a job without using it.

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So yeah, say no to teflon.

So I need to look for a non hardening permatex sealer?

"look for" is relative. It's just sitting there on the rack at every parts store.

I would comb the FSM and find out what the manual calls for. I've not ever had to remove one. Is there a crush washer? Chances are you'd be fine with some loc-tite.

EDIT: More: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/275012-oil-galley-plug-leak-opinions.html

Ok so the part number to the peice i belive im missing is 03032 - Crankshaft RR Oil Separator - MD040332.

By the way does anyone know what this oil seperator ring actually does.

chasedardis said:

Ok so the part number to the peice i belive im missing is 03032 - Crankshaft RR Oil Separator - MD040332.

By the way does anyone know what this oil separator ring actually does.

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It looks like you've been reading this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/423848-6-bolt-rear-main-seal-retaining-ring-part.html

From what I can tell it helps with the rear seal. I've never noticed that I even had one, but as DSSA mentioned, it may just be so black it's not easily visible.
I guess just make sure you don't get your 6 and 7 bolt part numbers mixed up! It's a little precarious, but I'm pretty sure they're talking 7 bolt parts in that thread. The housings themselves are different but no idea if the separator is different or if 7 bolts even get one.

After reading that dang thread again, I'm still not sure if they're talking 6 or 7 bolt. I guess 6 bolt? Even though "It looks like Jim was correct, but just put the wrong date year. "

Yes that is the thread I was reading and from what i got out of it it is the 6 bolt part number. I definetly do not have it my block is clean even with the oil leak i had it was all new oil. So im going to order that part.

It's a 6-bolt only part. The rear main assembly for the 6-bolt is as Brian pictured in that thread. For a 7-bolt, see the diagram below. You'll notice a couple things. First, the 7-bolt assembly has no retaining ring/oil separator. Second, the housing also has no gasket -- it uses sealant only. Finally, the diagrams depict what could be considered an "exploded" view of the assembly or the order in which it would be put together if done piece by piece on the block. For the 7-bolt this is actually how it is assembled: the housing bolts to the block with sealant in between. Then, the rear main seal is set in the front of the housing.

The 6-bolt unit is pre-assembled before installing it on the block. The rear main seal is set into the rear of the housing and, as DSSA alluded to in the other thread, the retaining ring/oil separator is installed behind that with the oil hole at the bottom. Then, as an assembly, the housing is bolted to the block with the gasket in between. Of course, lube the sealing surfaces when installing. Also, with the 6-bolt, here's a nifty trick for seating the seal in the housing: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/354019-rear-main-seal-installation-tool.html.

The above description by 19eclipse90 is spot on for assembly. I happen to document the process with some pictures in this Build Thread Entry.

I am glad that you found the part you are missing and hopefully you will be back to running soon.

Robert

Thanks for clearing that up you guys. They don't call 'em wisemen for nothin'!
Let us know how it goes.

Im still waiting for parts.

robertbaxley03 said:

The above description by 19eclipse90 is spot on for assembly. I happen to document the process with some pictures in this Build Thread Entry.

I am glad that you found the part you are missing and hopefully you will be back to running soon.

Robert

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Thank you for this. I'm going to be replacing my rear seal in the next week or two and visual aids are key for me. I already have the trans out to Jack's for a rebuild so the seal shouldn't be a big deal.