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Those all probably contributed to porous or blak welds, gas coverage is dictated by your regulator. try 20-25cfh. A gas lens would help a lot.
And always brush the aluminium with a stainless steel brush and dont use it on anything but aluminium, it can contaminate if you do.
 
1) #### YOU INTERNET EXPLORER!! I had a long response written and explorer ####ed it all up.

So in short. I keep my gas at 12-15cfh. Hardly ever go higher. Could be torch angle, distance to work piece, travel speed etc. My teachers answers to everything is "it depends" why, because there are too many variables and everyone does things differently. 1 way isn't necessarily better than another way.

5/16" thick will suck the heat out of what you are welding so you have to give it time to heat up. Especially on aluminum. What settings? You think that is bad, try welding an intercooler!

Code4 - I like that table a lot!

Urban - Good looking stick welds. I am TERRIBLE at stick welding. Was trying to weld 1/4" plate to 1/8" bar stock for my dads welding table and if I had pictures I would be embarrassed to show them. I'm pretty bad, plus don't know much about what polarity to run on what rods. Too many different types.

SirmixAlot - Not bad for aluminum and you being new. One thing I will tell you guys is aluminum intercooler piping is NOT easy. Why?!?!?!?!
1)Because the piping is cheap china made shit with tons of impurities.
2)if it's used it may have had oil going through it
3) it's THIN .063 roughly. And you are welding at the end of it so there is no place for the heat to go
4) it's round. Torch angle and keeping it consistent isn't easy on anything round.

I just picked up some stainless steel mig wire .030 and going to try my hands at that with some c25. Never done this before so it should be interesting! Also got some flux cored wire, be interesting to see how well I can do that after getting some good/solid mig welding under my belt finally.

And for cheap insurance, I picked up a wire cleaner for my mig welders. Help keep the wire clean, prevent kinking and keeping crap out of my liner. Good idea for $2
This is the one I bought
MIG Welder Wire Feed Lube Pads Cleaner Welding 12026 | eBay
 
thanks for the tips guys. I will keep on plugging away.

Nice to know i should be able to turn down the argon which will save some money.

I just picked up a 4-1 header with a dent in one of the primaries that i will repair. I also need to swap the head flange on it to work with my motor.
 
The inside of the intercooler piping?

You shouldn't need a back-purge setup on aluminum, because your not likely to break through the oxide layer on the other side i dont think.

This depends on so many variables that you cannot say he is not likely to break it down. With he right heat and accurately matched filler wire, then true. But you can infer that if he is opening his welds up for advice that he may need some.

You can absolutely break down and the layer. The inside of the tube will look like a piece of welded AL without adequate gas coverage (or if an arc could even maintain - a weld without gas at all).
 
made a fuel tank out of .090" 6061.....

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mike
 
The thinner the aluminum the less easy it is, but yes corner joints are super easy to weld.

Bets some more stuff. ...... that turbo manifold Welded together. .......


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Mike
 
And some itb's for a neon I'm working on. .......

Copied and pasted from the neon boards with info of what's going on in the pics.......

Got the flanges cut, fitted and Welded on the insides of the runners. ......

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Due to the heat after welding the out sides of the manifold there was some shrinkage and warpage to the point where the bolt holes would not line up and just a resurface would not due. So I had to add material to the whole head flange sealing surface and relief cut it......

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After the throttle body Mount flange sealing surface was milled. ......

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The milled head flange.......

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Injector bungs milled. .......

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Injector bungs fitted with rail......

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Bolt holes all fitted now after some welding and some end milling......

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Inside the runners before porting and clean up. ....

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Injector bungs Welded in and mounted on head. .......

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that's all for now. More pics as soon as I get more done.


Mike
 
I tried that purple and thought it was TERRIBLE. I'm going to give it 1 more chance though before i call it complete shit.
 
It's what te school supplied, 1/16,3/32,1/8 purple and collets and collet body, button and regular cap, i been needing a button forever haha. And a cup to fit each., i dont think it's bad, i only have one of each size. The weld i posted above was using it. I'll try ceriated next monday. On the synchrowave, it's all i use in te diversion, sometimes gold 1.5%. Ive been real busy. Want wp9 bad.
 
Why the 'slits' in the head flange?

major warpage..... cutting the reliefs allowed me to bend the flange back and by doing so i realign my bolt holes and ports for the most part and did not have to take alot off on the falnge milling.

i like to use pure for aluminum.... i love the balling of the tip. it just welds smoother imo and ive got an inverter machine. for steel its either ceriated or thoriated.


mike

also working on this super charged k swapped civic header.....


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and this is where all the magic happens LOL......


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mike
 
How are you going to weld the inside of all those pipes where they meet the collector?
How much time does it take you from start to finish you think? and no bevel on that pipe?

Chop saw or band saw?

How are you going to weld the inside of all those pipes where they meet the collector?
How much time does it take you from start to finish you think? and no bevel on that pipe?

Chop saw or band saw? I want to do stuff like this but don't want to over order parts or under order and have to pay shipping on parts 100 times.
 
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