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Help with boost leak spotting

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Boddie

10+ Year Contributor
87
0
Aug 21, 2012
Ames, Iowa
It used to boost at 15 PSI with an old APEXI BOV on, but the guy that had the car before me did not have a MAFT on it. It would die after nearly every shift. I ordered a stock BOV from a Mitsubishi dealership in Des Moines Iowa and put that in with a recirculating tube. I have had issues where my boost would not go over 7 PSI of boost no matter what I had my MBC set to. I found out my wastegate got stuck open, so I got that fixed and then I could get it to 8-10 PSI of boost in second gear. It still would not go any higher than that with the MBC.

I built a boost leak tester and have been using it, and fixed several leaks (Also replaced a highly corroded intercooler). It still will not hold any PSI for more than a second with air compressor running. Drains the air compressor from full to zero in less than 30 seconds (Capping the released pressure at 15 PSI). I noticed the stock replacement BOV was leaking out the recirculating tube at as low as 2 PSI, and the manifold is getting air. I am just hooking the BLTer right to the turbo, so I am guessing the one I got may be crap.

There seems to be another big issue though. My throttle body is leaking air pretty bad as well. With soapy water I could not find the leak for the life of me. I noticed when I squeeze the spring-like thing I can here the leaky air changing sound, and I can also feel it on my fingers coming from the spring. I have put a picture below of the area I am talking about:

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I don't know if the throttle body leak could be leaking enough air to cause the BOV to release the pressure or what. Please let me know what you guys think.
 
Hey bud heres quick link to resolve your issue, :aha:

Throttlebody Rebuild - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum: DSMtalk.com

Throttle Body Rebuild Kit - DSM Classifieds

... :hellyeah:*******Now to do it yourself is very easy, i did it, it cost me less than 5 dollars 3 things you will need are: 1. dielectric grease "auto store" 2. Number 7 O ring, "Home Depot" 3. Lock tight "Auto Store". I also recommend you replace all screws and ECT. but the above are the main points to focus on.********* :sneaky:

**one more thing this is how i identified the same issue you had. And this also pertains to your loss of pressure. * Last post is mines* **(look at the smoke coming from the throttle spring in pic )



http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/460221-did-boost-leak-test.html



** in conclusion yes that leak is enough to cause your rapid loss of pressure** ** Your BOV, Not sure man i noticed my stock one would give after 5 psi so i dropped it . i'm sure some else will stop by to help.**
 
Thank you very much for the quick reply!! I think I am going to give this rebuild a try. I should have also stated that while my car is not fully warmed up, moving, and in neutral I get some ridiculous idle surge. From many posts I have recently read, this could be related to the FIAV. Would disabling it this way while I am rebuilding it potentially solve the surging issue? or could it be related to the leaks that I know are present? I just do not want to take it apart and find out I have to do something else to it after and take it back off.
 
Here is what i do know, ... sounds like boost leaks, because they are present in all variable aspects of your car. So start out with that, then take it from there.
Also, if you spend some time "hunting" Google, there is actually step by step how to,,,
Ohhh Your in luck, i found it, i saved it because it is that hard to find, here you go.

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Last edited by a moderator:
Thank you guys for all your help again! I will get to this sometime this week or weekend and post my results.
 
Does anyone have any tips on getting off the two studs that hold the throttlebody on? I tried using the two nut trick and the studs are on so tight that the nuts started to warp and disfigure without the studs even budging...
 
You don't have to remove the studs. Just remove the throttle cable and slide the throttle body off. You might have to move the battery, but otherwise the studs can stay in.
 
The cable is disconnected and battery is out. Does it take like a mallet or the force of god to take out??

Rubber mallet took it right off thank you
 
Is it stuck to the intake manifold, or just wont slide all the way off?

If it's stuck to the manifold, there may be silicone sealant holding it on. If it won't slide all the way off, there might be something connected still such as the FIAV coolant lines.
 
Did you unhook the coolant lines as well? If so and you have a rubber mallet give it a couple taps and it should slide right off. The gasket may be sticking the throttle body on.

Edit: Ya beat me to it. Ha.
 
Well... Both the throttle body plate screws are like pudding and stripped...
 
If there's absolutely no chance of getting a philips head bit in there, you may have to take a dremel and carefully cut a slit (flat head screwdriver) or two (philips head screwdriver) in the screws to be able to take them out.

If that doesn't work, you may have to drill them out without ruining the threads in the shaft.


Or just get a new throttle body :)
 
Luckily I got it out with one of those reverse thread grabbit tools from Lowes.
 
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Well after putting it all back together and getting it installed, that leak appears to be fixed. A boost leak test still showed a very bad leak on my BOV though. It starts leaking around 2-3 PSI, and is limiting my boost to no higher than 8-10 PSI.

Thank you for your help guys!
 
Sorry to bring this back from the dead but is the shaft seal the same as the 2g TB?
 
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