The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

98 GS Clean DD Build

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Hopefully you are going to give it a fresh paint job. From my personal experience with my kalapana black Eclipse is that once the clear coat cancer starts, it spreads quickly. My brother has a red 3000gt and his has just started to get clear coat cancer. It is spreading quickly as well.
 
Update!

I can't say it's a fresh paint job, mostly because it's not paint. I'll elaborate later. First, since we're on the topic of paint, here's a couple pictures of what the factory paint still looks like. Keep in mind this is after a GOOD wax job.
5c781aef-5663-4b09-842e-b9e05cf5355c_zps71844d25.jpg


Also, don't mind the dent.

photo2.jpg


I also managed to find some pictures of the process for removing the rear panels in order to get to the rear speakers and also to remove the headliner. This is more-so for those who don't already know or couldn't figure it out.

First pop the cover off of the seatbelt guide and remove this bolt.
photo6_zps226f03df.jpg

This next step is only for removing the headliner. First remove these few screws. Then locate and remove the small black push clip. They are on both sides.
photo9_zpsd032a0c1.jpg

photo7_zps6c27b1cf.jpg


Moving on with upgrades.
I thought long and hard about doing some major performance upgrades. I'd originally wanted a 4g63T but I was limited to what I had locally, which was a 420a model. So I started searching and came across all of this! Which I purchased!

Custom wastegate dump tube.
photo8_zpsbf76e358.jpg

Vortec Super Fuel Management Unit (SFMU) and Turbonetics DeltaGate Mark II Wastegate. 38mm
photo7_zpsfa2a8e68.jpg

Star Turbo Manifold
photo6_zpsaf67e669.jpg


TURBO! Turbonetics Super 60 Turbo w/ stainless lines. Pretty clean.
photo5-1_zps61550abd.jpg


It's somewhat old tech as far as the wastegate is concerned, but the setup would surely make the 275 - 300 hp I was looking for. It also came with a downpipe, gauges, gauge pod bezel, hardware, and few other parts. Sweet, now all I need is an intercooler, injectors, bottom end, and a few misc parts and I'm good to go. That is, until I decided to scrap the build....
Instead, I decided I'd find myself a 4g63 and do things the right way. Sold all the parts and moved on.

Next, Exterior "Paint" upgrade/preventative care.

Since I noticed the sun really beating the crap out of my paint I started looking at my options. I could get a repaint, but I couldn't afford to do it right so that was out the door (I'm not a fan of MAACO or similar). I looked at Vinyl but at that price I might as well just have it painted.

Then I started reading a bunch of threads about PlastiDip. After a bunch of research I decided I'd PlastiDip my entire car, or at least try it out. Not only would this protect my paint from the sun for a short period, but it's also temporary and completely removable. So I built a booth from scratch, and unfortunately didn't take any pictures. Either way it was nothing to run home about. The previous month I actually PlastiDip'd a friends civic, which turned out really well. So I went ahead and grabbed 4 gallons of white and sprayed away.

The end result came out decent. I say this because the booth began to sag a bit up top which caused the booth to become constrained. This meant that all the little PlastiDip particles in the air fell onto the car instead of being sucked through the vent fan. The worst was on the hood, which actually wasn't THAT bad, and it was only noticeable upclose or if you touched it. It was mostly just a textured feeling. Otherwise I was happy with how the matte white came out.

In the booth.
IMG_0805_zps41ad7453.jpg


The day after.
IMG_0807_zps7339dd36.jpg


Couple months after.
78fba8b6-1fad-4f82-8d19-c4f1abfab93b_zps0ba3be1d.jpg


Would I do it again? Probably not.
Was it cool and unusual? Yes
It's been about 6 or so months and I'll be removing it soon, in which I'll upload pictures of that process too.

Next, To Be Decided..
 
That's really cool! Does it look like it will be hard to peel out of any door jams, window trim, tail lights, etc. on the car you may have missed while masking?
 
There are definitely some tight areas but for the most part it shouldn't be too bad. A microfiber cloth really helps to take off the difficult parts. I plan on removing the easy stuff like mirrors and tail lights just to make it easy on myself. Currently it's actually pretty easy to peel off, but it will be time consuming because its harder than it seems to peel it off in one big chunk. At least that's what I've seen when I did the research.
 
We checked out the car and decided it was ready for its first upgrade.
It was Christmas in April.
photo42.jpg

photo51.jpg


Not only did these bad boys get rid of the clunk but it improved the drive and feel of the car, not to mention the look.
They provided great handling with a 1.5" drop which was great, but it still wasn't enough.

Next, Upgrades, Upgrades, Upgrades.

Question for you? Did you get a Camber Kit for that Tokico kit?
 
Question for you? Did you get a Camber Kit for that Tokico kit?

Actually no, the fronts ended up sitting on factory camber. The rears were a little different. I'm pretty sure there's a thread on here on how to do this, but you have to buy longer bolts and some washers to use as spacers for the upper control arms. Basically what this does is push the top of the control arms out, thus correcting the camber based on how many washers are used. The thread will tell you how many to use since I don't remember the exact number. I haven't had any weird noises, driving conditions, etc at all with this setup and I believe it to be safe. If I'm weighed down enough or take a corner too hard my tires will rub on the fender in the rear, so I do still need to roll my fenders to avoid that. I still take it to have alignments done and they are still able to correct it enough to true up the camber with this setup, however they are limited without a camber kit.

As a side note, I don't hear many people claiming to have rubbing issues and I know many people use the Evo 8 Enkeis on the 2Gs so I do believe that tires dimensions and brand matter. Although those people could be sitting on coilovers instead, and they have more control over their suspension.

If you're interested I've considered selling this setup for the right price.
 
Actually no, the fronts ended up sitting on factory camber. The rears were a little different. I'm pretty sure there's a thread on here on how to do this, but you have to buy longer bolts and some washers to use as spacers for the upper control arms. Basically what this does is push the top of the control arms out, thus correcting the camber based on how many washers are used. The thread will tell you how many to use since I don't remember the exact number. I haven't had any weird noises, driving conditions, etc at all with this setup and I believe it to be safe. If I'm weighed down enough or take a corner too hard my tires will rub on the fender in the rear, so I do still need to roll my fenders to avoid that. I still take it to have alignments done and they are still able to correct it enough to true up the camber with this setup, however they are limited without a camber kit.

As a side note, I don't hear many people claiming to have rubbing issues and I know many people use the Evo 8 Enkeis on the 2Gs so I do believe that tires dimensions and brand matter. Although those people could be sitting on coilovers instead, and they have more control over their suspension.

If you're interested I've considered selling this setup for the right price.

Thanks for the offer, But I've already bought the set I'm going to put in my RS. Thanks for the advice.

How long of bolts did you end up getting?
 
Honestly I don't remember. It was all one write up on how to correct the rear camber with lowering springs. I'll search for it and see if I can find it.
 
Looking good. I like that your plastiDiped your car. I have been thinking about it, been reading and watching videos. I want to do mine white also. How much did it cost to Dip your car if you don't mind.

My project has been put on hold for a while due to a pot hole destroying the whole front end. So now I'm in debt working on getting that all paid for.

You car has come a long way. It's really looking good.
 
Looking good. I like that your plastiDiped your car. I have been thinking about it, been reading and watching videos. I want to do mine white also. How much did it cost to Dip your car if you don't mind.

My project has been put on hold for a while due to a pot hole destroying the whole front end. So now I'm in debt working on getting that all paid for.

You car has come a long way. It's really looking good.
Hey thanks man, the streets around here have done that to some people I know.

Well all in all it cost me around 275 but that was because I purchased a sprayer made for plasti dip as well. By the way if you do decide to dip your car let me know, because I don't need the sprayer anymore and I'd be willing to sell it at a good price. It's taking up space haha. Hit me up when you do get ready to do it as well if you're interested in some advice.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top