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Remote start alarm install: tail light relay goes crazy

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poizondsm

Probationary Member
26
0
Mar 22, 2013
Boulder, Colorado
Just finished installing a Clifford 590.2x or same as viper 5902. The alarm works but the trunk trigger is constant and the tail light relay under the hood is goin crazy, had to pull it. So any thoughts?
Also since there isn't a trigger for the trunk hatch on the 1g I didn't hook it up, but just hooked it to the door trigger to complete the circuit in the alarm brain and that didn't fix the relay either.
 
where do you have the 12v switched power running to? first thing i would check is maybe you have it switched with a constant by accident.
 
You shouldn't need to hook up the trunk trigger to anything if you don't have a trunk switch. If you want trunk protection you'll need a pin switch, or a mercury switch mounted somewhere either on the lid or the trunk lip. Otherwise, don't hook it up.

Are you sure that you tied your parking light lead into the correct wire? If the trunk trigger is setting off the alarm it will flash the lights. Also, there are two brown wires on Viper/Clifford products (don't ask why, I don't know) one of them is for brake, the other for horn/siren output. Does your siren chirp when you arm and disarm? Does stepping on the brake shut off the vehicle when it's remote started? If the answer to both of those questions is no, switch your brown wire connections.

I've been installing Viper product for the better part of 5 years now, and I'm happy to help!
 
Thanks guys. Smashed the face on my Klein electrical tester. Got the new one and am about to try some of this, but yes, the horn works. It seems that however I wired it some trigger is constantly set off cause the interior lights never fully turn off. Could this simply be I have constant to the switched 12v power wire?? Because the remote start won't work either. But alarm, door locks, lights, headlights Hooked to aux 1, and shock sensor all work, but if this trigger is constant, I can't drive it.

Also the white and blue turbo timer wire, what do I hook that up to on a 1g Dsm, I want to eliminate my turbo timer by using this but it's the only wire I cannot seem to figure out.



Appreciate it guys. I'm a decent mechanic but this is my first alarm install and of course I had to get the most complicated one, just couldn't resist.
 
Ok, here's the connections you need:

The heavy gauge ignition harness wires (H3 10 pin):

Red, Red/White, Red/Black should be connected to 12 Volts white + ignition harness
The solid Red on the H1 harness should also be connected here.

The Green wire should be connected to the key side of the cut (presuming you're usinging the starter kill) the Purple wire should be connected to the solenoid side of the cut Starter black/yellow + ignition harness

The Pink wire should be connected here Ignition black/white + ignition harness
You won't need the Pink/White or Pink/Black wires, pull them from the plug, or tape them off.

The Orange wire should be connected here Accessory blue/black + ignition harness

Lock wires (3 pin plug with green and blue):

Green Power Lock brown/blue - relays right of column
Blue Power Unlock brown/white - relays right of column

H1 connections (12 pin connector):
Red to +12 Constant at ignition column
Black to Ground
Brown to Siren positive

White with jumper fuse set for negative Parking Lights (-) blue/white or gray steering column
White with jumper fuse set for positive Parking Lights (+) green/white above hood release

Green to Left Front Door Trigger green/red - above hood release

Dome Supervision use door trigger
Trunk/Hatch Pin common with doors

Since you don't want to keep your turbo timer (I presume you want to use the one that comes with the Clifford) you won't need any of the other wires in this harness, tape them up.

Connections for H2 18 pin harness:

Light Green/Black connected to Factory Alarm Disarm brn/wht or brn/blk - DKP harness from door
Purple/White to Tachometer white AC instrument cluster
-Also found at a connector above the hood release.
Brown to Brake Wire green + brake pedal switch
Black/White to Ground or parking brake.

Those should be all the connections you need. If you've got a manual transmission you'll need to connect the parking brake input as well as a clutch bypass. Unfortunately, my wiring source doesn't have a parking brake wire listed, and I'm not familiar enough with the 1G's to tell you the wire color, but it should be the only wire connected to the parking brake.

I'll have to get back to you on programming it later tonight, gotta get back to work...
 
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Cool going over it all tonight, thanks bro!! I will get some pics loaded here too.
 
(My post above has been corrected to show that the starter wires should be flipped, Purple is ALWAYS Remote Start output, I don't know what I was thinking:ohdamn:)

Programming is best done through a BitWriter (but is still doable without one). The DEI instructions are a little confusing at first, but you'll get the hang of them. All steps should be done as quickly as possible, the system will automatically exit programming after about 5 seconds of inactivity.

In order to access any of the features in Menu 1:

1. Open a door.
2. Turn the key to the Ignition position.
3. Press and hold the Valet switch on the antenna.
4. When you hear the siren chirp once, release the Valet switch.
5. Select your option within the menu. Make your selection by pressing the button in correlation with the desired option number. Then release the button, and press it once more but hold it down. The siren will chirp in numbered groups based upon what option you have selected.
6. Press "Lock" on the transmitter to cycle through the options.
i.e. If you want the siren to only provide a warn away and full alarm, but no chirps on lock and unlock, you would enter Menu 1, press the Valet switch 3 times, and press again and hold on what would be the fourth press. Then press "Lock" on the transmitter 3 times.
7. Turn the key off, or wait 5 seconds. A long siren chirp will be heard. Programming is now exited. I haven't found a way to change menus without exiting programming. I haven't looked for one either, I'm set in my ways! :D

Important things within Menu 1:

1. Active vs. Passive Arming: Active arming means that the alarm will only arm if you tell it to using the transmitter. Passive arming means that the alarm will arm itself after a certain amount of inactivity (this can be quite annoying, and I recommend you don't use Passive arming). I haven't gotten a chance to test out the Auto Re-arm feature of these units yet, but it sounds like you can unlock /disarm the vehicle, and after some time has passed, it will automatically re-arm and re-lock itself, but I'm not 100% on that, feel free to try it out though!

2. Ign Controlled Locks: If you want your car to automatically lock/unlock the doors when ever the ignition is turned on/off, activate this. Downside, I activated this on my first alarm/remote start, and long story short, locked my keys in the car with the ignition running, be careful with this...

3. Comfort Closure simulates holding the lock button for 20 seconds whenever you lock/arm the vehicle, or shortly after locking/arming the vehicle pulses the lock again (I've never needed to use this option)

4. Hood Switch Type: If you used the large pin switch that came with the system as a hood pin, you'll want to make this "Normally Open." Connect the bottom (Male spade connector) of the switch to the Grey wire H2 Pin 15.

5. Our door switches are Normally Open, so no need to change this.

In order to access Menu 2:

1. Open a door.
2. Turn the key to the Ignition position.
3. Press and hold the Valet switch on the antenna.
4. When you hear the siren chirp twice, release the Valet switch.
Option programming is the same in all menus.

The only option in Menu 2 you might need to be concerned with is "Door Trigger Error Chirp." If the 1G's dome lights behave the same as the 2G's and stay on after the door has been closed for a couple seconds, then you'll want to turn this feature off. This feature is handy if your dome lights go out immediately on door closing because if you don't fully close your doors, the siren will chirp a second time to let you know that a door is still "open" and that your door trigger checking will be turned off.

In order to access Menu 3:

You guessed it, it's the same as Menus 1 & 2, you're just listening for 3 chirps this time.

This menu is where the meat and potatoes of programming resides.

I'll break them down option by option:

1. Transmission mode is exactly what it says, Manual (Default) or Automatic. You can run any transmission type you want, but to do things safely, if your transmission is a manual, use the manual mode. This mode requires you to hook up the black/white wire to parking brake, make a door trigger connection, and also make a tachometer connection. I'll explain more about manual transmission mode later.

2. Engine Checking Mode. DEI has several fun ways to see if the car is running or not, the best option is a direct connection to your tachometer signal (Tach). This can be found at any injector and is the wire that isn't a common color at each injector. Tach sensing does require programming, simply start your car then press and hold the Valet switch until the blue LED comes on. Once the LED comes on, release the button, then shut the car off. The parking lights will flash. You do not have to change the programming option to Tach before doing this either, the system recognizes the Tach programming routine, and will automatically change it to Tach sensing for you. Tach is essential if you are using manual mode.
The next best way is Virtual Tach. I don't know how they do it, but it works. For an automatic, this is the easiest way to get your remote start working, simply remote start the vehicle, wait for the parking lights to come on after 20 seconds or so, and then shut the vehicle off with the remote start. You can reset the Virtual Tach to factory default by opening a door, turning the key to ignition and pressing the Valet switch 4 times, and holding it on the fifth. You should hear four chirps. Then press "Lock" on the transmitter, and you'll hear a long chirp, Virtual Tach has been reset.
Voltage checking is good sometimes. It reads the voltage level of the vehicle, if it sees a voltage approximately 2V higher than it saw before starting, it knows the vehicle is running. Voltage sense can and will fail you if your alternator stops working, or doesn't provide a high enough output. No additional programming is required.
And finally, Engine Checking Off. The remote start will send the start signal once, and if the car doesn't start for whatever reason, the system won't know it, and it will leave the ignition on for the full run time you set.

3. Crank time is just that, how long you want the remote start to send the start signal to the car. This is only essential with Voltage checking and Engine Checking Off settings, both Tach and Virtual Tach don't require any changes here.

4. Remote Start Runtime is how long you want the car to run before the system shuts it off. Our standard run time at work is 20 minutes (BitWriter only) and this sufficiently warms/cools the vehicle, I would recommend the 24 minute option.

5. Activation Pulse Count is how many times you have to push the remote start button in order to activate the remote start.

6. Turbo Mode. This is your new turbo timer. I've never set up a DEI product for use as a turbo timer. It's fairly rare here in Central Illinois to get this request, I think we've had one person request it since I started working at this shop. While researching this mode, I noticed in the owners manual it says that it must be activated by an authorized dealer, however, no where does it say that you must use a BitWriter to set it up, so you can still try to set it up. From my research, I can tell you you're going to want to connect one side of a momentary switch to ground, and the other side of the switch to the White/Blue wire in the H1 harness. Turns out you'll need the White/Blue wire in the H1 12 Pin connector after all. Activating Turbo Mode is explained in the owners manual.

7. Unless you want your car to run a specific amount of time when the temp or voltage gets too low, don't worry about this setting.

8. Flex Relay Function is what the Pink/White wire in the ignition harness is for. If you have a second accessory, second ignition, or second starter wire, select the appropriate output. From what my wiring source tells me, the 1G's don't have a second anything, but if you have an extra wire in your vehicle's ignition harness, test it to see what it is, hook the Pink/White wire to it, and program this option accordingly.

9. Diesel Start Delay, not necessary, unless you've swapped in a diesel motor... (I demand PICS if you have! :thumb:)

10. Also, Diesel only, not necessary.

11. Status Two Output, if you want to hook up the Dark Blue wire (H2, Pin 10) to your rear window defroster, this is something you'll be interested in. Again, I have no info on the 1G's defroster wire, but if pressing the switch makes a wire on the back of it change polarity and releasing the switch brings the wire back to its rest voltage, you have a "Pulsed" output. If that wire switches polarity and stays at the new voltage after pressing and releasing the switch, you have a "Latched" output. If you set it to a "Defogger" output, it will automatically activate the defroster whenever the vehicle is remote started and the interior temperature is 32F or lower.

12. Parking Light Output. This sets how your parking lights behave when the vehicle is remote started. I personally prefer the default "Constant" because as long as the vehicle is running, the parking lights are on. I've used "Pulsed" before, and too many times I thought my car hadn't started because I happened to check it while the lights were in the "off" portion of their cycle.

13. Anti-grind Output. This keeps the starter wire interrupted during remote start, preventing you from doing damage to the starter if you accidentally turn the key too far during take over. (I recommend you leave this active)

14. Tach Mode Starter Release. Don't change this unless you find that your remote starter is grinding the starter during it's crank, or if the car isn't getting enough crank to start.

15. Vehicle Temp Auto Report. Every 2 minutes during remote start, if the temperature has changed one or more degrees since the last report, the remote will tell you what the new temperature is. (This might get annoying)

And finally...

16. Remote Start Safe Lock. I would recommend leaving this off. If for whatever reason, you want the doors to lock if the vehicle is remote started, you can save a lot of hassle simply by attaching the Purple (May be Purple/Yellow depending on how new your system is) wire in H2 Pin 13 to your lock output.

Setting a manual transmission vehicle to allow remote start:

There is a safety sequence that must be done before the system will allow you to remote start a manual transmission vehicle. These steps are presuming that you have been driving and have reached your destination.

1. With your foot on the brake, shift the vehicle to neutral and set the parking brake.
2. Remove your foot from the brake.
3. Press the Remote Start button on your transmitter.
4. Wait for the lights to begin flashing.
5. Remove the key from the ignition, the vehicle will remain running.
6. Exit the vehicle.
7. Close the doors then lock them using the transmitter. The vehicle will turn off.

If at any time, the system sees that a door was opened, it won't allow the remote start to activate, and you'll get an error tone on your transmitter. This sequence ensures that the vehicle can not be started in gear, and is the only way that I know of to safely put a remote start on a manual transmission vehicle.

The owners manual will tell you that you can press any button on the transmitter, not just the Remote Start button, but I have yet to see that feature work consistently. Pressing the Remote Start button ALWAYS works, unless you've done the sequence wrong. I would imagine that pressing the Remote Start button while setting your vehicle up for Turbo mode would work best as well, you'll have to try that out yourself, though...

That was a lot to type, and a lot to read. Hopefully, you found it more informative than confusing... If you have questions, as always, just ask!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So first of all thank you for typing all that, it was all appreciated! I managed to wore just as you said, I actually was on off on about 5 wires so wasn't too bad to fix. What was causing the tail light relay to trip out was that I wired the parking light isolation wire in addition to the Parking light wire and they were overloading the circuit, causing the relay to go crazy.

But everything works except the remote start, it flashes 7x showing that it is in auto and I need to switch to manual mode. I have it wired just as instructed above so I'm assuming once I program it, the remote start should work. I will let you know and thanks again for all the info!!

And on a side note, after getting it together I got to the dyno to tune cause I also wired in an AEM standalone ECU, and at 24lbs of boost on e85 I put down 482hp at the wheel here in Denver at 5300ft!!

Also i took out my turbo timer but I still haven't figured out how to use the one in the alarm yet, that is next priority, just not sure if I have to wire this to make it work or if I can just program it. Thanks again!!
 
No problem!

Programming it to auto transmission mode should fix your issue, unless you want to apply your parking brake every time you want your car to remote start (again, recommended if you have a manual transmission)...

Nice tune! I'm currently trying to build my GSX for the 400hp mark (read: I'm out of money, and the car is still disassembled).

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask!
 
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