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ECMlink DSM being a PIA after storage

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syndr0me

10+ Year Contributor
147
27
Oct 19, 2011
Pincourt, QC_Canada
Hey guys,

95 talon
6 bolt block
should be less then 100K on the engine.(accoridng to previous owner.)

So before I put my car into storage, it was A1 and running like a god @ 25psi, 16g.

Now, it's giving me a hard time. I set my injectors for 650cc, invert CAS and set idle in DSMLink. (Just like it was)

However the car, when I start picking past 10psi of boost, the boost seems to increase but the car slows down and has this braking type of effect. I hold this for an extra 500rpm just to be able to get clear cut data in the logger and let off right away off course to not induce any damage!

Logger also starts showing around 4-5deg of knock at that point and pulls the timing.

I just put brand new plugs in, BPR7ES and a half a tank of 91 Oct.

I'm currently doing a compression test,

145 - all good
150 - all good
150- all good
148 - all good

Battery also came from the junkyard, guy said it worked, it does but im wondering if it's a weak one that causing wonky electrical instability.

I fuarkinngg beautiful outside and just plated the car, help me!

thanks!
 
Not that it is something to really worry about right now, but compression is a tad low.
Anyway, is it possible the clutch is slipping or you have a boost leak.
 
Just completed compression test, 150psi. So that's good. rules out the possibility of cracked block due to improper Prestone mixture during winter storage.

@OutKastGSX,

Ah, but when I bought the car, 2 years ago, it had 150 running 25-30psi all day err day. And it still does now. So i'm not worried about that. The clutch is fine, it's an ACT 2600 and is still very stiff.

Also, other symptons, car ildles low, like around 600rpm range. Wether I set it ti 800 or 1100rpm in DSMlink, it dosent change one bit.

And for boost leak, if it was the cause then why would be boost still go up then?

I'm thinking the battery is just very low, im going to charge it for a couple of hours and trying it some time later.

Any other suggestions welcomed!



Edit* Ill go pull up the airflow/rev @ idle and see what it reads. BRB
Any other readings u want?
 
How long was it in storage for and was it heated?

Have you checked all your ignition wires to see if any have cracked and arcing out? And when you say set link I am assuming you have v2 so you loose the setting after the battery install
 
How long was it in storage for and was it heated?

Have you checked all your ignition wires to see if any have cracked and arcing out? And when you say set link I am assuming you have v2 so you loose the setting after the battery install

Stored for 4 months. V1 link. (El.Oh.EL) and yes, like I said, I re-inputed all the appropriate settings.

Will go check wires, BRB

*EDIT*

I checked in the dark, no arching and no shcocks.
 
Last edited:
Update:

Wires look fine.
0.25gr/rev
timing sits around 11-12

But know the car has had time to cool down, and link was showing 111F coolant, so car wasnt at Operating Temp.


Ya, my lifters are realllyy loud. I'm thinking a potential phantom knock issue.

Edit* but that makes no sense, why is my idle so garbage????

Bad idle and under boost issues. Must be a vacuum leak somewhere..

After about 10 miles of driving, I pulled the new plugs are they all look fantastic.

Did a boost leak, no leaks.


ARGGHHHH:notgood:

I'm gonna put my money on a bad MAF.
 
Last edited:
Ok, so I got my hands on another MAF 609. The car was actually runnning well. Held it's idle and the launch control was working good. I put the air filter on, close the hood. And now it's back to how it was.

I noticed when when this happens. My mahz reads 24.1hz and locks the timing at 13.1 and never moves. Makes the car idle at around 650RPM, it's set to 850RPM. Also when I try to adjust the RPM Idle in Link, it's unresponsive.

I'm thinking my pigtail for the MAF sensor.

Any input?
 
Bump,

-double checked vaccum leaks.

-maf sensor ground reads 20ohm. <- problem??

cmon guys, im super stumped. help me out ;(

*EDIT*

-jumped a new ground for the MAF, less than 2ohm. still no go.

*2nd EDIT*

- I received an AIT error in Link.
 
Maybe bad gas. Did you do anything else besides changing the plugs?
 
Maybe bad gas. Did you do anything else besides changing the plugs?

I said earlier I put fresh 91oct in. (40$ worth to!)

Other than plugs, a different MAF and also tried a spare PTU.


*EDIT*

I'm starting to think a faulty ECM. I really don;t know anymore!
 
,,,you're describing what your logs look like in ECMLink, why not just attach them and post for everyone to see? Also, this is the Newbie Forum and you're a Proven Member, take your posts out of this forum and put them in one that makes sense for the topic you're posting about.

Post a log of what you're describing in your first post, I'm moving this to the ECMLink log file advice forums.

:dsm:
 
My car sat garaged for years, started it and had the "phantom knock " you describe . Mine was the Blow off valve making the knocking sound from low vacuum. Sounds like bad gas or low batt voltage with the other probs. Spiders/dirtbobers are another culprit. Blew up a car from stopped up nitrous lines that were hanging in my garage. (dirt dobbers)
 
I'm sorry for wasting all your times guys. Human error.

I set global fuel at 47psi, not 37psi. One hell of a typo!!!!:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
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