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TSI AWD running 210 degrees+

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Outdorsman

Proven Member
338
0
Oct 17, 2012
Las Vegas, Nevada
Well my cousin just bought this talon for 1600, and the previous onwer didn't know why it was chugging gas. Well I did and it was the o2 sensor which I changed yesterday. Anyway skip to today and my cousin brings the car down and I notice its running hotter than normal. It was above the middle so I changed the thermostat and ran it with straight water to make sure eveyrthing was in working order before I dumped coolant in it. Well, it still runs hot, at about 210 degrees+ and I put a mishimoto racing thermostat because thats all I had on hand, its a 143 degree tstat.

What is causing it to run hot, it does have a fmic but it never ran this hot before since he's had it. It happened so suddenly. Waterpump looks pretty old but I can't tell.


What it has:
Boost gauge
evoIII 16g real running at 15 psi whic his stock I believe
fmic
Blitz BOV non recirculated (plan on fixing it soon)
everything else is stock

I plan on block testing it today as well.
 
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no noticeable coolant loss. I barely finished a head rebuild on my old car 3 weeks ago. Well atleast I have the knowledge if it comes to it! checking fans
 
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make sure the coolant is full hook up your scaner and watch your coolant temp . fan should come on at 212 and go off at 200 . if fan doesn't come on then you have to check that if fan comes on and the temp doesn't go down then it could be a thermostat you already tried that and it could also be a radiator head gasket or water pump .you have to eleminate each possibility . do a leak down test for head gasket . for water pump test i usually remove one end of the radiator hose and start the car for a few seconds if the coolant shoots out then the water pump is good .for the radiator if your leak down test was good then all you have left is the radiator . one more thing is when you changed the thermostat did you put the small jiggle pin facing straight up.
 
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burped the system and the fans were checked. They are running fine. Still continually rises in heat to 210+. However the gauge on the cluster remains at the middle. Maybe because I'm running a low temp thermo? Car drives fine as well.
 
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210* at idle is not uncommon at all. The fans should bring it back down to 200 or lower depending on ambient temps. If its 70* and your cruising at 55 or 60 mph does the temp go to 210? Even with the new tstat? or is it only idle? You only really have to be concerned when temps hit over 220 or 225. Even then you actually have some wiggle room.
 
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Like said above what kind of fans are they? Is it one or two? Stock or slim?

At idle a car will naturally run warmer with less air keeping coolant temps down.
I sometimes need to add a second fan at idle due to high engine bay temps and the stock fan trigger on a 1g is a joke. I usually do away with ECU control of he fan(s) and wire them on my own switch and turn them on constantly for the most part.
210 isn't to high.

Oh. That stock dash gauge is good for telling you if the car is warm. That's it. You could be in a very dangerous territory and never know until its to late. A aftermarket temp gauge is one of those important sensors a highly modified DSM's should have IMO.
 
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well the temp never exceeds 220 degress or so my logger says. Its usually when its sitting in traffic that it gets hot, it stays around 190-200 while driving and while driving on the highway it stays pretty cool. Gonna drop in some water wetter and 70/30 coolant mix to see what happens.
 
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Its not that abnormal. Youre definitely in the safe range. That said, dont expect to do your best pulls with coolant temps up around 220 LOL, you'll be much more prone to knock obviously.
I would advise checking the fans and more important than anything else: DUCTING. Force that air to go through the IC,Condenser, and on through the radiator. Without it, air loves to escape. Even make sure your fan shrouds are nice and flush with the radiator or else itll just pull air from the sides.
GL to you sir. And like the guy said above, the stock gauge doesnt tell anything. I was running at 223 on idle AND the hwy before i did some ducting and it stayed right in the middle of the gauge.
 
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Water wetter definitely helped, it stays at around 190-203 while driving and 213 degrees max while on idle before the fans kick in and drop it to 206-210. I'll put in some ducting at some point but I got more important issues like a missing cross member and severe boost leaks haha.
 
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gauge on the cluster remains at the middle
Click to expand...

Psst !! Hate to tell you this, but all DSM's (and all cars in that manner) run their temp gauges at this position with 195 degree t-stats. Mine is the 195 and I never have any overheating problems (course, I did a total system power flushout to rid of rust, junk and crud out of my radiator and system while I was doing the belt and that was 5yrs ago and the coolant is still nice and green..).

Cars have to run this hot to operate normally. You shove cold T-stats in there and the motor will hate you for that since it can't get hot enough to operate correctly - it really suffers running cold and your efficency will suffer as well.

The ECU is programmed to operate at this degree of heat when it gets the info from the temp sensor. You cool that motor down and the ECU will think the block is cold and tells the injectors to shove in more fuel to get the block hot, thus you'll be running pig rich at all times.
 
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DSM1G90 said:
Psst !! Hate to tell you this, but all DSM's (and all cars in that manner) run their temp gauges at this position with 195 degree t-stats. Mine is the 195 and I never have any overheating problems (course, I did a total system power flushout to rid of rust, junk and crud out of my radiator and system while I was doing the belt and that was 5yrs ago and the coolant is still nice and green..).

Cars have to run this hot to operate normally. You shove cold T-stats in there and the motor will hate you for that since it can't get hot enough to operate correctly - it really suffers running cold and your efficency will suffer as well.

The ECU is programmed to operate at this degree of heat when it gets the info from the temp sensor. You cool that motor down and the ECU will think the block is cold and tells the injectors to shove in more fuel to get the block hot, thus you'll be running pig rich at all times.
Click to expand...

This is true, to an extent. I think youre referring to the temp being abnormally cold like 160* or something. Then, yes, the ecu will be making it rich.
IIRC, the "cutoff" is 180* on 2g's. Basically you want it at least 180 under normal operating conditions. If it would stay at 180 all the time? Probably not a bad thing at all.
 
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Like said above. The car should be at least 180° during normal operation.
Here are all the 2g coolant points. Mine likes to sit right around 200-210 Remember, our exhaust manifold sits right behind the radiator. So unless the car is moving, it's going to run warm, and constantly cycling the fans on and off.


Enter ECU Learn Mode :: 180F (82C)
Coolant Fan ON LOW :: 210F (99C)
Pull 1 degree timing :: 206F (97C)
Pull 2 degree timing :: 224F (107C)
Coolant Fan ON HIGH :: 224F (107C)
Enter Open Loop Mode :: 228F (109C)
Default Coolant CEL :: 235F (113C)
A/C Override :: 240F (115C)
 
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We would hot lap our cars and wouldnt see a loss in performance until the temps reached 216. The car ran great at 210-213. I would ditch the 143 degree thermostat though. Stick a 180 in there and call it a day.
 
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car is running fine. I was always under the impression that thermostats didn't matter. As in they just open sooner than others but the temperature still remians the same for the most part? I read that here so thats why I thought the 143 degree tstat was fine. I'm running between 190-203 so I think I'm fine.
 
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Running a cold thermostat like that, in cold weather the car may not fully warm up and it will stay in open loop. So the car will run super rich. Another issue is the thermostat is always open so coolant flows through the radiator to fast and doesn't get a chance to cool.
 
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ARFWD said:
Running a cold thermostat like that, in cold weather the car may not fully warm up and it will stay in open loop. So the car will run super rich. Another issue is the thermostat is always open so coolant flows through the radiator to fast and doesn't get a chance to cool.
Click to expand...

Well it never gets below 70 degrees in nevada in this weather haha. I'll swap it out in the future.
 
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