The Zinc dimpled plating is the difference-lots more machining to make them look "pretty".

First one were just bright-no mention of being "white" in the description.

Have to scroll down on each item, read and compare descriptions per each item to get your answers.

The difference in price comes from the process needed to make the rotor and the quality of the material. In rotors, you pay a cheap price you will get a cheap rotor.

If you need to get new rotors I would tell you to go to www.rockauto.com,way better prices then summit not sure if you are in the market or just asking. Good luck getting good rotors.

I don't think its totally correct in saying expensive materials and machine work makes a "better" rotor. It may cost more for materials that last longer such as zinc alloys, and they normally cost slightly more for material. They tend to cause less brake dust, but its main advantage is they are much more rust resistant. A cast iron rotor will have more stopping power but rust almost immediately. The difference in performance isn't worth the trade off on a street car. You could argue that carbon brakes are the best, and they do cost a whole lot more, but they are almost worthless when cold. On a race track after being brought to temperature, they never cool to the point where this is a problem, so they are excellent. They aren't a viable option for a street car.

For the most part, maybe the more expensive rotor of the same material and style (slotted or dimpled because the machining does cost some money) may be made to a tighter tolerance, but I do not feel the difference could be discernible on the street. That being said, I will agree with HighPSI in what I think he's trying to get across to you- BRAKES ARE IMPORTANT SO DON'T CHEAP OUT.

I am just starting my first DSM build (95 TSI AWD auto) and I am going to go with the Outlander rotor set up. Good luck.

DSM1G90 said:

The Zinc dimpled plating is the difference-lots more machining to make them look "pretty".

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And more likely to fail (cross drilled).

If I were to do it again, I would go with the outlander disks and brackets, and maybe slotted/dimpled. (I'm a sucker for pretty brakes)

Cheap drilled rotors (like you posted up) are far more prone to cracking from heat cycling (track driving, auto-x, etc.) than slotted and/or dimpled rotors. If you're going drilled, either spend the money for the high-end stuff (Brembo, etc.) that can be relied upon or stick to slotted or blanks. Even a lot of the high end rotors are either blanks or just slotted.

thanks a lot guys. I'll check out those other brands you mentioned, although, still a couple questions:

Don't dimpled/slotted/drilled rotors grip/brake better? One of you said otherwise.

And would a street driver, only aggressive as needed to deliver pizza on a regular 40 hr/week
basis need to worry about cracks and warpage? I've always had to turn my stock rotors periodically but never cracked a rotor.

And when I see "zinc coated" that means less rust more or less? Because that would be good. I Get a lot of rust.

Oh, and someone said "cross drilled" are bad? If so, was there implication that there is a better method of drilled rotors? I don't know what "cross" drilled means

The theory with drilled rotors is to dissapate the heat quicker.

Rock Auto is one great place for parts.

Zinc doesnt oxidize, thus no rusting and is a very hard metal - why it's a choice for premimum rotors. These zinc plated rotors have been hot dipped using the galvanize (liquid zinc) process....

Galvanization is the process of applying a protective zinc coating to steel or iron, in order to prevent rusting.

Why metal (Galvanized) garbage cans are zinc coated - being hot dipped in zinc so they don't rust out.

which would improve their resistance over stock rotors to cracking and warping no? I read too that they grip better also no?

There is where one would look into various type of brake pads - from standard to semi metal or even porcelain pads.

okay, so the gold slotted and drilled zinc coated ones for $170/pair, or comparable from another site, I linked to in my first post should be a nice upgrade to my <$40 stocks no? Thanks ...

juntjoo said:

which would improve their resistance over stock rotors to cracking and warping no? I read too that they grip better also no?

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Rotors don't "warp". It's an old, huge misunderstanding in the automotive world. And I don't for-see that misunderstanding dying anytime soon. See Link

DSM1G90 said:

The theory with drilled rotors is to dissapate the heat quicker.

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Nope. Vented rotors reduce head. Cross drilled rotors do not. They were designed offset the problem known as out gassing. When the brakes got hot, the pads would "out gas" and it would cause the pad to float on a layer of gas rather than make physical contact with the rotor. However out gassing is no longer an issue with modern pads. Cross drilling is purely cosmetic (one could make an attempt to say it reduces unsprung weight) however MORE material = MORE braking power.

OP: If you want good braking, get good PADS. A cheap set of Brembo blank disks will do JUST fine.

well mine are rusty and if not "warped", not true because they cause the peddle to pulsate, I assume. So I'm thinking upgrade rather than spend money to turn these rusty ones. They are 24mm thick tho and I believe the book says 19mm minimum...

I agree, I would just get new rotors also. But I would put more emphasis on pads than rotors. You're delivering pizza, not road racing . Plus how many more miles do you plan to get out of this car? I delivered pizza for a few years. The stop and go and driving like a maniac to get the food on time is really rough on cars. The car I drove had 50,000 miles on it, but it rode like it had 150,000 miles on it. It clunked, raddled, and was constantly in the shop for repairs. I think the suspension took the biggest beating. "The Hell if I'm gonna slow down for that pot hole" was the mentality of myself and the other drivers.

I bet the tips made from delivering pizzas paid for the shop bills in repairing the suspension on a regular basis when not worrying about potholes.

I divide the work between two cars, usually leaving me with one working car, at this point in time which would be my 03 Honda Insight, which is great on gas and for this job...

I actually try to limit the abuse to the brakes(hence my interest I'm upgrading) and engine accelerating and stopping fast while straight, and going easier on the tires (expensive) and suspension going slow on turns. I also only back out in the direction I turn in(to wherever) to spare steering/suspension parts.

Question: Without relying on the website to determine what rotors are compatible with my hubs essentially, sometimes the site won't be do smart about it, is it the "bolt pattern" all I need to worry about to find matching rotors or not? Sometimes you'll find a "rear" specification. What's that about?

Take a look at the specs I got off the napa site for a 93 eclipse rotor.

Attributes:
# of Bolt Holes : 5 (number of studs)
Bolt Circle Diameter : 4.5" (diameter center points of studs)
Brake Rotor Diameter : 10.08" (outer disk diameter)
Center Hole Diameter : 2.72" (hub diameter for centering)
Height : 1.79" (hat height)
Brake Rotor Discard Thickness : .88" ( )
Brake Rotor Thickness New : .95" ( )

All those specs are important. Look up some images that show the engineered specs on a drawing of the rotor to help understand what the specs mean. It might make more sense seeing it than just asking questions. Something like this.



BTW Have stayed on sanibel island before. Need to go again. Drinkin on the beach hangin out at the mucky duck. shorts, flip flops and beer in hand all day.

cool, thanks. Although I think this site dropped the res of your pic. But looks like there may be more than the bolt pattern to consider. I'll check specs on a few to determine the necessary numbers. And yes, Sanibel, great place for beer and flip flops.

Nice thing about 5sp cars is that engine braking when coming to a stop really saves on pads and rotors.

Just downshift into 3rd and off the gas pedal. You'd be touching the brake pedal 100 ft before the light.

Ran a car like this and at 60K miles ,still had the original pads and only half worn down on the front. Just had to lightly turn the rotors due to the glaze buildup on them from all the brake dust that I accumulated.

It all is due how your braking habits are: Hard braking, or soft braking on how your pads and rotors will be after time.

Automatics just coast up to the light, thus full braking is needed.

I've always wondered how much wear that puts on the tranny... I tend to use my brakes mostly. If I'm having issues with my brakes then I'll use the drive train. What about these rotors? I chose the black zinc coated option in the drop down:

https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=18084&cat=1836&page=1

It specifies dual piston calipers which as I'm at the end of my budget, will be an upgrade I'll hold out for, but will I be okay with these and my single piston calipers?

DSM1G90 said:

Nice thing about 5sp cars is that engine braking when coming to a stop really saves on pads and rotors.

Just downshift into 3rd and off the gas pedal. You'd be touching the brake pedal 100 ft before the light.

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This is a completely valid point however it costs less to replace your pads and rotors than it does to replace your trans.

Keep in mind these transmissions are old and finicky so I wouldn't risk it by engine braking on a regular basis. You most likely wont blow out your trans from engine braking but in my opinion it's better just to step on the brakes.

Oh pooh ! Doesn't hurt the tranny at all when your in 3rd coasting down from 35mph to a slow roll. Mitsu trannies are more tougher than that.... BUT...

You don't want to shift down to 2nd or don't even think on 1st gear on a coast down for that will screw up the tranny pretty bad though since that will spin out the input shaft bearing.

Plus it feels good rev matching downshifts, and mpg savings.