Did you ever fix this problem??

BoostKrazy said:

Did you ever fix this problem??

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no, not yet, i havent had the time or money to go get a head bolt socket, but im sure as hell not gonna drive it any more until i get it fixed , luckily the weathers been good enough for me to ride my bike around, as soon as i can get them back into torque spec, and test it out, ill post back here to give an update

Did you ever bury the water temp gauge? If you did it more than once you'll most likely need to go ahead and have the head milled

primo513 said:

Did you ever bury the water temp gauge? If you did it more than once you'll most likely need to go ahead and have the head milled

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No I still don't have a gauge, and did what more than once??

If you buried the water temp a few times the head is most likely warped and just tightening the bolts won't fix the problem

Bojangles465 said:

No I still don't have a gauge, and did what more than once??

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By "bury" he means "did you allow the car to overheat".

It's only actually overrated once or twice, so I think it should be ok(knock on wood)

My car used ti run at 220 degrees, got up to 240 multiple times and hit 265 at one point, after i retorqued my studs, havent had one problem..

Bojangles465 said:

It's only actually overrated once or twice, so I think it should be ok(knock on wood)

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I overheated once and you guessed it I had to dissassemble the dam thing

Did compression test after tightening the head bolts(I did get a few turns out of a couple of them, the compression test read cylinders 1 to 3- 115, cylinder 4 was 125 ish, all of them held pressure, I did a few test runs, two without boost, about 3 miles, no overheating, another test run with 7lbd of boost, wasn't filling the reservoir, but steamed out the overflow hose, then let it cool, and did another test run with 10 lbs boost 2.5 miles , didnt overheat per say, but when the car was cut off, it kinda "burped" water out of overflow hose, not a lot. I took a video of it after I stopped, I'll post the link in a few

Bro those compression numbers are really low!

How bad is it? I mean it has power and everything

Bojangles465 said:

Low?? According to my Haynes manual, compression should be from 110-130

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1G (90-94) T/E/L 2.0L Turbo engine
Compression ratio 7.8:1
Standard compression 164 psi
Service limit 121 psi
Max difference between cylinders 14 psi



^ Everything but one is below the service limit. In that one cylinder I'll bet the headgasket is bad due to the headbolts being loose, or you over-heated the engine and the head is now warped. Sorry to say, but either way that head has to come off. While it's off, get it sent to the machine shop just in case.

CrackedDSM said:

1G (90-94) T/E/L 2.0L Turbo engine
Compression ratio 7.8:1
Standard compression 164 psi
Service limit 121 psi
Max difference between cylinders 14 psi



^ Everything but one is below the service limit. In that one cylinder I'll bet the headgasket is bad due to the headbolts being loose, or you over-heated the engine and the head is now warped. Sorry to say, but either way that head has to come off. While it's off, get it sent to the machine shop just in case.

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With that being the case, what more damage could come about if I were to continue running the car like this? The car runs smooth, except for the overheating(which doesn't seem like it is still doing it, I'll have to test it some more) and the compression, I have 6 heads in my garage, so it isn't really a big deal to have to swap one out, I just don't have the time to do so, but when I do, I'll put arp studs and a 3 layer steel gasket on.

In order to go MLS you'll need the deck and head surfaced professionally by a savvy machine shop that won't use a belt-sander(has to have a mirror finish). Damage that can occur driving it like that...honestly? I presume that this is your daily driver so you can't afford down-time?

Yes, this is my DD, I've had it parked because of the overheating, because I didn't want to warp the head or blow the HG, but if is needs to be done anyways, I might as well keep driving it and just replace the head. Also, when I did the compression test, the throttle was closed and the motor was cold, would this influence the results of the test to the point of having such low numbers?

EDIT:

I warmed up the engine, and held the gas peddle at WOT, and I got these results for the new compression test:

Cylinder 1- 120 psi
Cylinder 2-120 psi
Cylinder 3-122 psi
Cylinder 4-125 psi