some more info on the car in question would be helpful or update your profile.

I'm using my phone, it won't allow me to update my profile on here. My motor has about 1000 miles on it. 4g63, brand new oem internals, brand new gaskets, new water and oil pump. Aem ems 2nd gen, all aem sensors, running e85. Gt35r, custom turbo mani, custom 4" intake, hks exhaust. That pretty much sums up the big stuff.

I was driving today, low boost setting, slightly spirited driving... I get home after driving less than 15 miles, pull in the driveway and I see smoke and smell a hot syrup smell. Coolant is boiling out of my overflow. I checked the dash, no cel, but my oil pressure gauge and temp gauge aren't working (I figure tune) I let it cool for a while and started it back up, the fans are working, I let it run and it starts getting hot again, no smoke or anything tho. Head gasket is brand new, oil clean..... So I ordered a new tstat and a heat blanket for the turbo. Hopefully they will help me get the car to the tuner.

how is it pulling have you checked your mechanical timing after rebuild ?

My butthole puckers up every time I hit the gas. It was tuned before the build, and a mild tune after the build, 12 lbs which is still nasty with the gt35.

I broke it in gently, changed the oil at 300 miles and 600 miles (personal preference) and I just started pushing it a little.

well im outta ideas then looks like you need someone wiser than me .

I'm guessing its the tune. Going to cost me another 600...

do you have any log files why is it going to cost 600 its free to tune it your self.!!!!!

Timing is too low, or cooling system issue: air bubble, leak, or head gasket.

It could be timing. I was thinking about advancing a little bit for cold starts anyway. I'm running e85 and it won't cold start for $h!t! I don't have the original tune. It's about time for a new one. I'm going through the cooling system before I take it in for a tune. Last tune I got, the tuner turned the fans off while on the dyno, and the engine heated so much, piston 2 expanded and gauged the wall.....(tuner in ga) I got a new bottom end, and then. New tune, but it's time for a new tuner and tune.

Don't change anything, just check that these are all active and that the set temps are not insane. If you don't feel comfortable doing this to check then don't follow these directions.

You can check your fan settings and make sure they are turning on and off at a good temp. I am working with a first gen EMS but for me that would be under options->configure outputs. for me there is a drop down with all the outputs, LS2 and LS9 are the fans. Make sure they are both basic active and function active for rad fan.

I use the built in Rad Fan function to control on/off temps, to check them there is a tab that is labeled functions. In that tab there is a drop down that has the built in functions, I select rad fan and changed the ON temp to 189 and the OFF temp to 180. Yours if stock are probably ON 194/OFF 184.

Also you can check on the coolant sensor settings as well to see what they are set at, in the 1st gen software it's setup->sensors->coolant temp sensor->options. I know the software is different for a series 2 but I hope that helps some.

For 600 bux of tuning, you are better off getting Ecmlink and tune it yourself. Ecmlink is super easy to use and the datalog is so good. Aem ems is straight garbage for the street. I have Aem but I like ecmlink so much better. I bought my Aem before Ecmlink was available.

You might want to check your head gasket too because Aem does not control knock as well as Ecmlink.

It is not just e85 that cause slow start up. It is the nature of Aem ems on dsm with the 24 or 12 teeth trigger disc.

I have honestly never opened up my ems myself. I will build all day, but when it comes to tuning, I get nervous. I say down with a mad scientist while my s2k was being tuned and he showed me all the parameters with air and fuel.... It was like a pig looking at a wrist watch. I know what it's supposed to do, I couldn't tell you the first thing about how to get there. Honestly, I need to grow some balls and download the aem program and give it a go.

I am not a fan of aem ems. I had gen 1 and 2 in my s2k and hated them both. I purchased this car with the aem ems gen 2. When it is working properly, it is great... It just doesn't happen very often.. I never had a problem with start up on my s2k, that's why I figured it was the e85 and temp related. I have read about people experiencing the same problems, so I just plan on talking to the tuner. I just moved to Colorado a month ago, and just recently found a very reputable tuner. I am just going to see what he can do. My car hasn't been tuned or on a dyno since break in.

I greatly appreciate the help and advice guys, keep it coming. This is only my second 4g63 build. I came over from the dark side.... Hondas

A bad radiator cap can cause the coolant to boil..

Brand new rad cap. Oem, not some 3 dollar eBay crap that looks cool.

Reason I think it's the ems, is my oil pressure and temp gauge went down yesterday. I didn't notice till I got home and saw everything overflowing. Turned the car back on and the gushes weren't moving. I'm 1000 percent sure I DO have oil pressure and my car was HOT.... My gen one did the same thing when it took a crap on me, except the temp gauge started out hot on a cold start and evened out when the car warmed up?

On the radiator cap thing, I'd get a Stant 1.1 bar when you next replace. I get them off Amazon for less than 10 bucks stock is only 1 bar. With the startup thing it sound like there is some tuning needed in the start extra and the initial crank pulse tables.

Its what I'm working on in my car right now, just switching to the EMS so I keep having to flop back to SAFC and stock ECU as it is my DD.

If you want to get into tuning first thing is reading lots of reading, I got my car back in August and have been reading about tuning since then (my care came with the AEM so I never had the decision to make about which path to walk down .

The user guide that comes with AEMPro has some good initial setup and basic tuning advice. Then I went here: www.ka-t.org :: View topic - AEM EMS Tuning Tips, then I bought some books forced induction performace tuning by A. Graham Bell and How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems from Motorbooks Workshop.

Then I mucked about in the software (be sure to save an original copy of whatever map you are mucking with), found out what the tables did and how they were related to each other, when they are used by the car.

And that's where I am, just getting into the hands on bit and actually getting my car started. Having fun and its not too stressful because I feel I have a decent theoretical base my next step will be using this guide to get my idle rock solid: *How to setup idle for AEM ECU* - evolutionm.net

Good luck whichever way you go!

I'm going to get the radiator cap just to be safe. It w t hurt to have an extra I guess. I figured the oem would be sufficient.

Thanks for the advice on the tuning! I'm looking into it now. It's something I would love to be able to do, just makes me nervous. After dropping 7g in a turbo, fresh build etc, I'd hate to screw it up because I'm dumb...

The radiator cap is not super necessary I just like it. it's 16PSI as opposed to 14PSI stock, IIRC raising the pressure in a closed system by 1 PSI it translates to roughly 3 degree raise in the boiling point of the liquid so at 16PSI the coolant should reach boiling 48 degrees higher than an open system approximately 42 for stock, but every degree helps prevent excess cavitation and boilover

Very true. I just ordered a blanket for my turbo as well. It's pretty close to the radiator. After I spring for the tune, next will be radiator, but the xline is around 400 bucks from what I've seen :/