Did you remove your HAZ marks?

Here is a manifold i'm building, that will put my turbo inlet hanging over my intercooler facing forwards, this will not leave me a lot of room for downpipe so i tried to make the manifold with enough gap in between the runners for a 4" downpipe to fit nicely through it. All while trying to keep the runners as equal length as i can.

I am no expert by a longshot, this will be my first time attempting something like this.

Already ! Nice!

urbansmoker1 said:

Yeah the certs are pretty similar although i not doing over head or certical just flat and horizontal fillet welds. Stick and mig. After school i plan to do the AWS and CWB (canadian welding bearu) certs for TIG. I'll be dual national certified in tig how cool is that haha!

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urbansmoker1 said:

Ingot flashed today by a carbon arc gouger. ####ing baddddddd accidently made metal contact with helmet off, everything went white for a sec, then burned my eyes for hours after.
Still ####ing hurts. Nothing a dark room and a bowl won't cure.

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ours are AWS certs. being both canadian and american certified would b cool... i have alot of fun using the air arc it will burn thru some shit in no time ...

compression said:

I tried the sensitivity lowest highest and in between, no difference. I contacted the seller and they are going to send me a new lenses and sensors. See if that fixes it.

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it may just be the helmet, I dropped almost 300 on a snap on auto darkening helmet and was having the same issue but only when running TIG, if im using a MIG it will never flash me, come to find out that the style/sensor I have doesn't pick up the TIG ark well and its a very common problem for them to flash while TIG welding. ill be buying a miller helmet next , only good reviews from them

sexystover said:

it may just be the helmet, I dropped almost 300 on a snap on auto darkening helmet and was having the same issue but only when running TIG, if im using a MIG it will never flash me, come to find out that the style/sensor I have doesn't pick up the TIG ark well and its a very common problem for them to flash while TIG welding. ill be buying a miller helmet next , only good reviews from them

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Snap on helmets are over priced junk. Get a jackson, or miller or speedglas

Miller elite ftw

Pipeliner

I also use an optrel Satellite.

All i can see is that enormous argon tank in the back!

This is a comparison shot, they are also compressed to a much higher psi than standard cylinders, these things last a long time if barely used in a fab shop. I wish I had one at home.


But right now I am at the site and we use a large amount just purging pipes. And I use a lot!

They uses those with a manifold to supply multiple stations? Thats awesome!

does anyone have a good way to cut square tubing, 1/16 think. i was thinking miter saw but i cant find a ferrous metal blade and it wasn't recommended on a welding forum.

sawzall and a grinder to clean up after?

Use an abrasive cutting wheel on it. You might melt the plastic shield on the miter saw though.

urbansmoker1 said:

They uses those with a manifold to supply multiple stations? Thats awesome!

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Yup I have seen up to 8 guys all running off one of these cylinders. Normally I have like 2-3 guys running off one.


And do not use a miter saw. The electric motor and gearing were not designed to use abrasive wheels to cut.

Just soft wood using a blade with teeth.


Any of the other suggestion would work fine

Get a chop saw like the one i posted a pic of earlier in this thread.

Ok, practiced some aluminum #7 cup standard collet body, no gas lens =\






Looks like i need to add more filler


Should i be slowly letting off the pedal as i go more into the weld? max amps were set to 70ish, looks like the aluminum is heating up to much near the end of the weld.


This is on a red 3/32's tungsten (balled) 12ish cfh 70amp pedal.

Aluminium try 15-20cfh aluminium like as much or more gas than stainless cause it contaminates easily. They look decent. Your foot peddal is to adjust as you go, only you can tell how hot or cold your bead is. Control it best you can.

Let off the pedal slower when your finishing the weld to avoid the crater.

I was more or less referring to how the weld started to sink into the metal towards the end, probably should have started to let off of the pedal a little i assume?

Yes. Start heavy on the pedal and slowly taper off as the aluminum will heat up you don't need to put that much more heat into the piece.

oh, gamble just the man i need to ask.

Are you still working on that torch for the 200sx?, in the mean time im going to try this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/M14-1-5-M16...035?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d2eaf2a13

here is an m14-m16 adapter , you will be able to use their torches, and possibly eastwood torches as well! ( i hope )

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WP-9-SR-9-T...925?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27bcc89e7d

This SHOULD work right? the longevity uses the m14 thread style.

I'd buy a better torch if i could, but i think think this machine has that option?

Compression, doesn't look to bad. As Gamble said try to maintain the same diameter puddle throughout the whole bead and you could dip the filler a little more often to get more of a ((((((((((( instead of €€€€€€€. It also depends on the look you are going for and what you are welding and what size filler rod you are using......
As for my exhaust finally...

What did you use amps? Technique?

Not sure if your asking me, but I used about 45 amps with .030 filler wire. Just straight motion stop and pause technique.

Yeah i was asking you. what tungsten and did you stop at all to reposition? Or go straight through.