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Need help asap! Car shuts off after pressing gas

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Outdorsman

Proven Member
338
0
Oct 17, 2012
Las Vegas, Nevada
Well I need help asap because my car is stranded at a home depot because it failed on me once again :banghead::banghead:

Oil was getting into the spark plugs when I checked because my oil cap that I bought new kept leaking and I exchanged it twice and it still kept leaking POS. Well I got new wires and plugs because I thought it was ignition once again but it still runs like shit. It idles around 500 rpms but doesn't sound good at all, once I press the gas it hesitates like a mother efer and eventually will either a) rev up but sound like shit or b) die. Its not my battery because its brand new, got new plugs and wires as well. Don't know what else it could be. I assume it might be the ignition coil but I'm not sure. Had a CEL but it doesn't appear anymore.


The engine shakes and so does the car when its hesitating. I hear a constant clicking sound as well.


Specs:
97 Spyder GS-T
ebay 16g (came with car)
stock
 
Only have an analog one, I adjusted the tps using it to the best of my ability by using the feeler gauge and stuff. Didn't help at all. I checked spark on all cables and I was indeed getting spark.


My car began to smell of fuel a couple days ago then this happened. Also, when you rev high smoke comes out the tailpipe, its not smoke you see from a blown HG. The engine sounds better once you reach 2500+ rpms and it doesn't sound like shit, it sounds normal. But the car still won't move as it bogs down and dies in first gear.
 
Just adjust the tps till it reads .59v(without stop screw touching it) then screw the stop screw in till it reads .61-63v. Thats all. Screw biss screw in all the way then back out 1 3/4 turns. Your idle settings should be good then.


Did you adjust like that? Forget the feeler gauge. This is a new tps or your old one? Your tps volts should go from what its set at(throttle fully closed[.61-63]) all the way to 5v(wide open). .67v is what the ecu reads as 1%.
Also, if tps is good but just not adjusted properly it will only affect the transition between on and off throttle, how it idles, and if it stays out if adjustment to long it put the car in open loop. None of that will cause your car to bog out under load.

Only way that will happen is if the tps volts doesn't increase with throttle plate.
 
Not yet, I still need to make one. I do hear a hissing sound coming from the throttlebody tho. But the mechanic told me it might be a fuel issue, he said might because I had no CEL on but it sounded and felt like it to him.
 
Well a guy in another thread who had the same issues said his timing jumped...
Waiting on a mechanic because I'm too sick to do anything right now.
 
Yeah timing jump would cause that. Do your cams marks line up?

I wanted to test it, but i'm bed ridden right now. Got hit with who knows what and I feel like shit. I have no strength myself anymore, I feel just like my car :cry:
 
Is my car in time?

I did a crappy job at aligning it but it should do.

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AH this is irritating me, I don't know whats wrong with the damn car. Every mechanic is useless too, they never follow through and actually come.
 
COMPRESSION TEST! Since no one has mentioned it. My bad tps did not cause it to run crappy, only when i gave it gas. Your problem is a HUGE vaccum leak, or a blown motor.

Damn that is a scary thought for me. For some reason I really think its a gigantic vacuum leak. I just have been too sick to leave my house to get the materials for a Boost Leak tester.
 
A leaky oil cap is a sign of a blown motor. I couldnt get my cap to stop leaking when i blew 2 ring landings on my piston. Hopefully in your case a major boost leak solves your problem.

My oil cap never leaked, Idk if this will make a difference but I accidentally bought a oilcap made for the oem 4g63 valve covers but I put it on the hyundai VC. The oil cap never leaked this much until I purchased this replacement cap, the oem cap I had only leaked a tiny bit. I should be able to get a compression test done in an hour or so.

Compression test, Cold Engine Dry:

120 0 0 120
 
Hey man I had one that did the same thing and it was a coolant temp sensor, one will read for the dash but the other is for the ECU and I had the ecu one go bad and do exactly what your car is doing. it didn't give a code for it but it did go bad, soon as I replaced it it fixed everything.
 
My oil cap never leaked, Idk if this will make a difference but I accidentally bought a oilcap made for the oem 4g63 valve covers but I put it on the hyundai VC. The oil cap never leaked this much until I purchased this replacement cap, the oem cap I had only leaked a tiny bit. I should be able to get a compression test done in an hour or so.

Compression test, Cold Engine Dry:

120 0 0 120

Well there you have it.
 
Not really, unless he moved the crank with a bar, the middle two cylinders would have the valves open. Even if he has a compression issue, the "bad" cylinders will show some pressure.

Sorry I thought 120 was a little low for the 4g? I always thought a dry comp test should be 145+. Sorry still new to the DSM world
 
I've attached the guides for a compression & leakdown test from dsmgrrrl-com | dsmgrrrl-com (that site no longer loads)

120 is low, but if all four cylinders are close to each other, that would point to a worn engine, not a failed headgasket.
 

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I've attached the guides for a compression & leakdown test from dsmgrrrl-com#|#dsmgrrrl-com (that site no longer loads)

120 is low, but if all four cylinders are close to each other, that would point to a worn engine, not a failed headgasket.

Check the date my dudes. I got the car running it actually was a badly blown head gasket. Was missing a good 1 inch chunk off it between cylinders 3 and 4. I already rebuilt the head a week after my last post I just forgot to update haha.

Not really, unless he moved the crank with a bar, the middle two cylinders would have the valves open. Even if he has a compression issue, the "bad" cylinders will show some pressure.

Blown head gasket, 0 compression between those 2 cylinders and guess what, it was blown between those two exact cylinders. It will have absolutely no compression if it is blown as bad as mine was.
 
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