It will read 43psi if the car isn't running. So what ever you have it set to it should read it without the vacuum.

well when you turn the key on it gives power to the fuel pump and pressurizes the system so i would say yes.

Yeah that's what I thought, it's not reading jack. I pulled the line and put it in a gas tank to see the flow. It's pouring like an old man with prostate issues.
If I have voltage drop problems, would that cause it? The pump not getting the proper voltage to run it at full power?

i would imagine voltage drop would make it do that but im not 100%. its like when you have voltage issues on a starter unless it has 11v or more it wont turn over like it should.

Yeah I'm having those issues too. However the pump is re wired and coming right off the battery. There shouldn't be an issue there but I'm not sure

What's your battery voltage reading via link when you're activating the pump? It sounds like you said you're having low voltage issues, so if the battery is low, the pump will be low.

Try charging the battery, making sure you're seeing high 13's or low 14's for voltage, and activating it again to see what flow is like. If it still sucks, you might have a kink or restriction/clog.

if your battery isnt low on voltage you might need new or bigger gauge power wire to the pump. i would get a voltage meter and follow the wire back to the tank and see how much it is dropping off if any. like brian said check your battery first and go from there.

Yeah, my dumb ass drilled a hold right through a return line trying to drill a hole for a ground, right below the rear seats...yep on top of the gas tank, like an idiot.

Now I have to drop the tank today in order to replace it. Hope it's not too much of a pain.

My reasoning now is that the system is depressurized cause there is a big friggin hole in the line....



The line that is on top, centered.

Is that the pressure release valve or a component of the fuel return? That is the line that was damaged.

Does that have anything to do with compromising fuel pressure?

snowborder714 said:

What's your battery voltage reading via link when you're activating the pump? It sounds like you said you're having low voltage issues, so if the battery is low, the pump will be low.

Try charging the battery, making sure you're seeing high 13's or low 14's for voltage, and activating it again to see what flow is like. If it still sucks, you might have a kink or restriction/clog.

Click to expand...

I have a brand new red top, alternator, and 0-gauge wiring. The highest the red top was putting out was 12v. The fuel pump was getting 12v, both when cranking.
Both readings were from a multimeter.

jayson427 said:

if your battery isnt low on voltage you might need new or bigger gauge power wire to the pump. i would get a voltage meter and follow the wire back to the tank and see how much it is dropping off if any. like brian said check your battery first and go from there.

Click to expand...

I'm running 8-guage power and ground wire for the pump. It's a 255, re-wired. I think it's either the line or a clogged fuel filter.

The filter is quite new, an aftermarket Aeromotive....but it has been sitting a couple years, so I'm not sure. Either way, the rail is only getting like 12psi.

jayson427 said:

well when you turn the key on it gives power to the fuel pump and pressurizes the system so i would say yes.

Click to expand...

That's only true on the 2g NT. All 1g's and 2g turbos require CAS pulses to turn on the fuel pump.

luv2rallye said:

That's only true on the 2g NT. All 1g's and 2g turbos require CAS pulses to turn on the fuel pump.

Click to expand...

ahhh alright my bad OP misinformation on my part. at least you found out your issue.

Well regardless of what operates the pump in respect to the key/on. I was turning on the pump with dsmlink, so there is no question the pump
was operating. I had to take a break last night from the car. I'm gonna take the damn tank off
tonight and take a look and see.