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5, and yes cfh. The metal may have been contaminated. Like I said I wasn't prepared to really do anything but I just couldn't resist.

Do I have to get a certain type of gas lenses? Like depending on the torch? Or could I just walk in and ask for a gas lenses.
 
Look what i picked up gamble heh about time too
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Sadly only had 4 in stock but oh well got these 4 for 13$ should be kick ass on stainless. They didn't have 2% so i grabbed 1.5% i dont think .5% us that big a diff is it? Can't wait to ditch ceriated.
 
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I didn't know they had 4", thought they were only 7".
Let us know how you like them.
 
Damn man, you tucking that up by the drive shaft? Def wanna see pictures. I'm planning on a Vband o2 housing and then maybe someday a full 3.5" aluminium exhaust system.

I'll def have pictures on here when I finish it. I need to rob a bank to buy a welder hehe.

I don't get the whole aluminum exhaust system. how the hell does aluminum hold up to the heat?
 
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Now that i have that chop saw the fitup looks alot better and i could actually make a smaller degree cut.

Heres mocked up with tape. These are each a 15* cut i believe with the last eing a straight cut. Not sure how accurate the miter is.
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I just spent the past few hours deburring all these with a damn file. I really needa get a dremmel.

I'll def have pictures on here when I finish it. I need to rob a bank to buy a welder hehe.

I don't get the whole aluminum exhaust system. how the hell does aluminum hold up to the heat?
Aluminium's melting temp is 1220 degrees F. And your EGTs get to what 1400+? Well you make a stainless o2 housing (melting point over 2750*F) and vband aluminium from 18" back from the turbine housing. Aluminium dissipates heat much faster than stainless so it actually being attached to your o2 housing with a vband it will act like a heat sink, creating even lower egts. :)

Anyone got tips for a home made purge plug?
 
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Just because the exhaust temps are above melting temperature of aluminum doesn't mean the aluminum will reach that temperature. Pistons are made of aluminum right? :thumb:
 
Then why are exhausts made of steel and stainless steel and titanium? IDK just doesn't seem right.

I'm thinking I should get 2x more 45*'s or something like that to add more of an angle on my downpipe so that I can add room for my oil filter. Its gonna suck to have to remove the exhaust in order to change the oil.
 
Aluminium heated up with constant vibration will cause cracking. For a track car no. For a daily yes. What we did to weight wienies at the old shop is order thinner gauge tubing. This is all SS. If you have some money to spend then Ti is nice.
 
Does anyone have measurements of how long the oem o2 housing is from the top of the turbine hole (not wastegate hole) to the down pipe flange? I need to know approximately how long to make my o2 housing. I already know it is a 110* angle from turbo to down pipe.
 
184 mm from the top of the flange to the two bolt dp.

Top of wg hole to bottom of turbine hole was 111/112 mm.This is 1g o2 btw.

About 104mm from the turbine hole too dp flange.That was anled to get the straightest measurment.On the short dp flange side..The other side is going to be harder to measure.

Edit,,caliper is measuring more like 106,and my caliper only goes to 150 on the other side, sorry.
 
I'm thinking I should get 2x more 45*'s or something like that to add more of an angle on my downpipe so that I can add room for my oil filter. Its gonna suck to have to remove the exhaust in order to change the oil.
Get a 7-bolt FF OFH from FFWD or a stock Evo 8/9 OFH if you want to run a oil cooler.

FF OFH 7-bolt

:dsm:
 
About 104mm from the turbine hole too dp flange.That was anled to get the straightest measurment.On the short dp flange side..The other side is going to be harder to measure.

Edit,,caliper is measuring more like 106,and my caliper only goes to 150 on the other side, sorry.

Exactally what i was lookin for, millimetres, what are you, canadian? LOL

I have the shittiest purge setup i got a good bead on the inside and it worked okay , but then i had to do a cover pass and thought, well i did the root there shouldn't be any sugaring. Donthe second passes. And BAM! Sugaring!!!! I'm gonna take a wire wheel to the inside to see if that helps but i doubt it.
 
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So i did purge the inside like i said earlier using shitty tin foil, but the second pass without purge yeilded sugaring a bit. I used a wire wheel to smooth it out best i could, I'll dremmel the uneven parts and wire wheel again
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It looks alot better after the wire wherl in there.

Edit. Forgot to say, this was with the diversion 22cfm, 40 amp root 35 amp cover pass. 16 gauge tube.
 
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Give us some info on the purge. (Time spent purging, your exhuast hole) Maybe pics of your set up.



But I am pretty sure I already know your problem.


Do you tape off the unwelded joints? And do you tape off the joint you are welding and slowly unwrap it with your progression.



FYI use aluminum tape, masking tape works, buttttt it is not as ideal.







!!!! One little tip for SS.

It pulls, your tacks will shrink and depending on your progression it will warp and pull.

SS like to be in and out, quickly without letting heat set in. Not super high amp, trying to move as fast as you can welding. Amatures with out knowledge of metallurgy try this. Don't be that guy





Put in enough amps to make good wetting and fusion. It is okay to let the piece cool between welds, buttttt NEVER weld a small area of a joint and leave it, with out sufficient tacks it will pull and warp bad. So don't sit in one spot and let heat set in, make good fusion and keep moving
 
I was doing like 7 beads then Stopped to reposition. the purge i was using was just a V off the regulator with a valve and a 1/4" barb fitting with some fuel line then i capped it off witj tin foil, cause i dont really have anything else. I tried tape on the previous one but it didn't work as well as i wanted for end caps. My teacher told me to progressively peal the tape back as i go like you said. But yeah i decided not to do thay this time LOL. I spent a few hours on that piece including cool down times between each joint. As for time spent purging i let the post
Flow last a little longer then my torch post flow.

What i really need is one of those purgeplugs.com things with the defuser.
 
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