Having problem with your car? The worst thing that can happen to many people is that their vehicle will stop working. Not only does it cost a variety of cash to pay the mechanic to repair your vehicle, but you will even be without an automobile until you can come up with the cash to do so. A payday loan can help you pay the mechanic and get you back to work faster.

allisonward said:

cost a variety of cash

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"Yeah, to do this I'm gonna need 100 Euros, 100 USD, 10,000 Yen, and 1,000 Pesos."

zachwilliams02 said:

our fuel pumps don't run with the key on. only when the engine is running. there is a jumper in the engine bay that you short with a paper clip and it will run the fuel pump

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You can bump the starter as well , but with the compression numbers I dont think it's fuel.

thanks for all the feed back i dont have a compressor so i had it towed back to the shop i will keep every one posted on what it was.

Have you tested to see if you ecu is bad by chance?

Check base timing and check the CAS.

1g CAS testing

have not done either, Will try it and let you know how it goes, thanks

Momsbluegto79 said:

Let me start by saying I did consult the no start thread on here and did find it helpful on eliminating some possibilities, however I'm still stuck.

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You would have had you consulted the no start thread better...

There's a second part to that article that has more info in it, some if it pertains to 2g specific stuff but the majority of it applies for any 4g63 powered DSM.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html#post152649702

gofer said:

You would have had you consulted the no start thread better...

There's a second part to that article that has more info in it, some if it pertains to 2g specific stuff but the majority of it applies for any 4g63 powered DSM.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html#post152649702

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Thanks, skipped that since I thought it only pertained to 2Gs.

Checked Compression - Good
Checked Timing - Good
Checked CAS - Fine

Still won't start

Also pulled as much fuel as I could out using the SAFC2.. pulled 50% from 800-2500rpms, still nothing.

Should I try letting some fuel pressure out of the regulator? Or go to a stock injector till theres a tune on the car then go back to the Evo8's? It has fuel/spark/comp/timing so the only thing I could think is wrong is too much fuel, like I said, ECT sensor and Sender unit have been replaced.

See above edit^ any ideas?

if there was too much fuel, you would more than likely smell it bro

I do.

Changed injectors and the car was kicking more often but still wont run, almost outta ideas, guess I'll try dropping the tank next

So turns out the timing belt was good I had a bad crankshaft sensor

A bad crank sensor? What was the cause of the extremely low compression numbers?

Cold compression tests usually read lower numbers, but would never guessed that low, I would still look over stuff make sure everything is up to your par. Stupid sensor's I hate all things electrical I stay far away from them because you never know what one it is, lucky for you tho.

So it runs good now? 2 at 30 isn't right.

Check the MAS (airflow sensor) wiring and connections you cut to wire in the SAFC, specifically the GRN/BLU wire that the SAFC's ORG and PNK wires are tapped into.

Make sure your CAS isn't 180 degrees out! Just went through the same thin on my 2g with a 1g head

gofer said:

Check the MAS (airflow sensor) wiring and connections you cut to wire in the SAFC, specifically the GRN/BLU wire that the SAFC's ORG and PNK wires are tapped into.

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Which one taps into which? is it Blue/Orange & Green/Pink? I bought the car with the SAFC2 installed. Whoever wired it did a half ass job & I pulled the pink one out just by pulling the safc out so obviously the connection wasn't good at all.

And it should be solid blue correct? It looks like whoever made an attempt at wiring it ran Orange to Blue/Yellow. Pink is unclear however.

It runs but idles a little rough

ok so heres an update, I went ahead and did a spark test and I'm getting no spark. I also noticed when I'm cranking the engine over the Tachometer isn't moving at all either. On my other DSM when I crank the car a bit It you can see the rpms move around 100-200. could this be my Coil pack or transistor?

I recently rebuilt my motor after my timing jumped and bent a valve. I have a new cylinder head, ngk laser iridium spark plugs, all new timing (tensioner, pulleys, water pump, belt), new cams, new gaskets all around, new alternator, new egr, new vacuum lines, new air filter, new oil filter, and all around new fresh fluids. This car was running like a brand new car after these hours and hours of work. No check engine light, no lag, always started within a crank or two of the starter. Awesomeness.... Until two days ago.. Suddenly after driving about 15 miles, the check engine light came on. The rpms started racing as well. When I release the throttle and press the clutch (simultaneously) the rpms will go up. They won't drop down either till a few seconds after i have stopped. Also, after i drive the car for a period of time (usually about 10 min for a run to the corner station), the car will not start back up. After i let the car cool down for a couple hours it starts right up, but it now has a little bit of a chug to it for a second. The rpms will bounce between 1300 and 800. Before all this she idled nicely at around 900 rpms. Why wouldn't my car start after is has warmed up? The starter turns the motor with no issue. I have a msd ignition coil coming in the next couple days, but I'm not sure that'll fix the issue. I know the alternator (as it is brand new), the starter, and the battery are all good. Excellent in fact. What else should i be looking for? I'm sorry for such a long post but i wanted to make sure all the info that might be needed was included. Thanks in advance!

Check coolant and coolent temp sensor?

I would check fuel pressure to eliminate an injector sticking open. It could he running rich while driving and then when you park it it floods a cylinder down and looses all rail and line pressure in the process. What codes are stored? Your engine oil will smell like fuel and probably be a little on the higher side of level.

spook302 said:

I would check fuel pressure to eliminate an injector sticking open. It could he running rich while driving and then when you park it it floods a cylinder down and looses all rail and line pressure in the process. What codes are stored? Your engine oil will smell like fuel and probably be a little on the higher side of level.

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that could possibly explain why it won't start after it has been running, but I'm not sure that would explain the racing rpms... I'll be taking the car to get scanned in the morning. Before the rebuild it gave an egr code(can't remember what specifically, but new head and egr should've solved this code), coolant low pressure (new head again, and also new water pump) and something to do with the o2 in the cat. Keep in mind that immediately after the rebuild for a good 400 miles this car was running like brand new, so the o2 sensor I wouldn't believe to suddenly cause an issue. I'll update with the codes in the morning. Thanks again for the input.

Just got back from AutoZone. Good call on the coolant temp sensor. The only two codes the scanner put out was the coolant temp sensor and coolant sensor high voltage. I'll replace the sensor, but if it has high voltage, wouldn't there be something causing that? Or would the sensor throw that code? I'll keep you updated. And thanks for the help.

Ok, so I got the new sensor. But I noticed the pigtail was corroded on the terminals.... Yay.. So I had to special order one from Napa. Won't be able to pick it up till tomorrow. I really hope this solves my issue. The corrosion is probably where the high voltage code is coming from. I'll keep you guys updated. After I replace it tomorrow I'll take it to get scanned again to make sure the codes are gone. Thanks guys once again.