D dot sHOWS were continuity should be

The Drivers side up show 2-6 and 8-9 how do I read that with a multimeter the pic shows 4 points and the multimeter only has 2 leads on it a red wire and a black what goes where?

What the diagram in the book means is this:

Colored lines show what's connected to what when the switch is pushed ('up', 'down' on the diagram) or not ('Normal' on the diagram). So to check the switch use a volt meter set to Ohms and connect it to pins in the diagram before pressing the switch.

While you'r at it, check and make sure the switch and the motor are getting power (check plugs on the car this time). It seems strange that a window does not move either way. Usually when a switch goes bad it still 'sorta' functions and will move the window one way or the other.

Hey there thanks so much for the reply when I connect a volt meter set on 12v and touch pins 2 and 6 of the harness with no switch connected I get no volt reading and same when I try pins 8 and 9 with the volt meter I get no reading again at all this is just the harness and no switch connected please let me know thanks?


Rix

The diagram is for the switch itself, not the harness.

Sorry for the newbie questions but is there a way to test out the right wire from the harness only to see if there is power going to the drive side windows and if so which wires on the harness with be the power and ground for that window?

Rix

There is. I would have to look at a wiring diagram to tell you how though. Would you mind posting the diagrams from the manual? Should be called "Typical power window wiring diagram".

Go to page 65, see the connector D-11? Unplug that and check resistance between the two pins, motor side. There should be little reistance there, guessing less than 5ohms. That is the two wire plug going directly to the motor, I suspect a bad motor since all windows work except drivers and neither the up/down work. Since other wndows work, you already have the power where it should be. Check that and go from there.

When I hook up a battery to the motor side of the non working It does roll up and down ifi reverse those wires

Do pins in the switch and the plug look damaged or corroded? If switch is ok and motor is ok that leaves the "somewhere in between" part, plug being the weakest link.

Not sure if this is the wiring diagram you were asking about.


Rix.

The pins in the plug all look good

It goes from the switch to the "Convertible top control module". Does the top work good? Now i'm thinking that something in that module might not be working.

Hmm the top goes up and down with no issues when I use its switch on the dash

Rix

Have you tested the window switch yet?

Not yet I only have a simple 12v tester I'm gonna have to borrow one from my school tomorrow

In up or down position, measuring between pins 6 & 9 should show close to source voltage. Or light the bulb.
Test light will work fine for these tests

Ok *sweet* ill report my findings tomorrow thanks for the info and tip.

Rix

Even basic volt meters have Ohm settings. If not, grab a test light, a battery, and a lenth of wire. Connect that wire to + on the battery and one of the wires from the test light to - to have a self-powered test light. Use it to check the switch. Does not have to be 12v, a simlpe 1.5v battery and a flashlight bulb will do.

On pins 6 and 9 when I read it with a volt meter holding the switch down I get 11.79v and when I let go I get 0v and then with I hold the switch up I get about 11.79 aswell any ideas on that?

Not sure what those readings mean and if it means the switch is ok

What does Getting voltage on pins 6-9 mean when pressing up or down? Does that mean the switch is ok or??

It reverses polarity when switch is switched right? In other words pin 9 is +12 in up position then -12 in down position. Anyway, doesn't matter, switch is doing its thing. You said you can manually run the motor with a battery, so switch and motor are fine.

Take the test light and ground it on some clean shiny metal. Hit the up button and make sure the light lights when you touch pin 1 at connector D-11 (main 2 wire connector for motor)

If yes then somethings up with the module. Before replacing it, make sure you don't have broken wires or something. Find the module (page 69, connector E-54) and disconnect the connector. Have someone hold the switch to up and between pins 27 & 28 should be close to source voltage. Using the test light might end up being dim so use the meter for a better idea. If yes, replace module, its not allowing circuit to be completed for motor.

Ok thanks ill have to try that out when you say the e54 module do you mean the convertible top control module?

Yeah power or ground has to go through that module (depending on switch pos.) And it seems the module isn't letting the connection through. Like a fuse, the circuit has been stopped by the module for whatever reason. A good bit of current passes through that module so it may have burned up when someone tried the windows repeatedly while frozen shut .
But I would still doublecheck its not wires, just in case. Simple enough

Yeah I'm not sure this car is upsetting me so much but this car has never been driven in the winter and always stored in shop I really hope I can figure this out

And also could it still be that module if every other button one that switch works when pressed? Only issue is the drive window

rixcidia said:

Yeah I'm not sure this car is upsetting me so much but this car has never been driven in the winter and always stored in shop I really hope I can figure this out

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You can do it! It can be frustrating at times, but you just keep trying and you will have it fixed in no time.

rixcidia said:

And also could it still be that module if every other button one that switch works when pressed? Only issue is the drive window

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I would say it is possible since driver's side window only uses part of the module. Hard to tell from looking at pictures of it, but it might be possible to (easily) open up this module and visually inspect the board for any damages.