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Evo 8-10 Brembo Calipers DSM Conversion (for 1g too)

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Here's an update, of sorts.



When you get a chance, take a look at the logs that Dennis has posted. Imagine how quick he would have been if he'd been gentle on the pedals. Yes, for him, ABS was important, just as AWD was important. Others can be faster and quicker without it.

Perhaps, but after posting on this forum for umpteen amount of years, if the choice in equipment/questions asked about the most menial things have any bearing on the driver's ability around here, that the vast majority of people on this forum (the aforementioned "DSM Enthusiasts") are much better served having ABS remain on their vehicle, rather than "Race car driver doesn't need ABS, thus I don't need ABS."
 
I used to be a half decent autocrosser, and back then ABS made the difference between .1 and .75 on a minor lock-up - i.e. an error you could recover from and a lost run.

The bad side of a 2G AWD ABS is that it operates in Select Low mode all the time - start to lock a front and the ABS releases that brake _and_ both rears. Recoverable if you don't twat a cone, but you'll be lucky if you don't - that's usually why you're braking in the first place !

Every branch of motorsport that allows ABS has it, just like EBD - why wouldn't you want to brake later & deeper ?
 
What do you guys think on upgrading to a wilwood master cilinder? they are 1 1/8 and the reservior can be mounted "remotely" it also cost 72 bucks new....
well im asking becauseive heard that the evo master doesnt fit and the 3g reserervior tank is too big and hits on some spots, im not sure tho... jsut an idea it might work ;o
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theres also other models that might work
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Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - Master Cylinders
 
well im asking becauseive heard that the evo master doesnt fit and the 3g reserervior tank is too big and hits on some spots, im not sure tho...
Read through this thread, I didn't spend hours posting my findings just so people that are too lazy to read can post information that they've "heard" but "aren't sure tho..." in the exact same thread. :toobad:

Start reading here at post #293

:dsm:
 
The 3G master cylinder and reservoir fits a 2G perfectly - you can either risk bending (== breaking on an 18 y/o car) or buy the conversion lines from JNZ - either way, it fits fine. I have the 3G m/cyl on 2 of my 2Gs.
 
This is an evo brake booster + 3g eclipse master cylinder and resevoir
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Just found this thread... Are the brackets still available?? If so, who makes them and how much??????
 
Quick question I haven't seen addressed yet. Forgive me if it has been dealt with, I just haven't seen it mentioned. I'm trying to order my master and booster and my parts guy is saying there's three different masters and two different boosters. Am I to get the master for 4 Wheel ABS? W/O traction control or with. He can't get specs as far as dimensions. Anyone else encounter this and silve it?
 
Well I just picked up a 3G master and booster from a 2001. Only $60 and I'm hoping it is the right one. There weren't really any part numbers to compare but the booster does have 42 on it like previously mentioned in this thread. I figured while I have the intake manifold off, what better time to upgrade right?
 
Quick question I haven't seen addressed yet. Forgive me if it has been dealt with, I just haven't seen it mentioned. I'm trying to order my master and booster and my parts guy is saying there's three different masters and two different boosters. Am I to get the master for 4 Wheel ABS? W/O traction control or with. He can't get specs as far as dimensions. Anyone else encounter this and silve it?
Since I don't know EXACTLY which 3g my booster/master cylinder was parted from I PM'd the guy I bought it off of, hopefully he supplies the VIN so I can get a part number.

As far as I know the car was a '03 GT (V6) with a 5-speed, more info to come for ya because this has been asked a few times before.

:dsm:
 
Gofer, you seem to be the expert at this. Does this seem like exactly the correct part?

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That's the one!

Definitely no expert, just experienced because I've done it. Wish I knew more with the variations in DSM setups and how this BB/BMC works, my car wasn't equipped with ABS so you may have a different story doing the install than I did.

Take pictures if you run into anything different.

:dsm:
 
That's the one!

Definitely no expert, just experienced because I've done it. Wish I knew more with the variations in DSM setups and how this BB/BMC works, my car wasn't equipped with ABS so you may have a different story doing the install than I did.

Take pictures if you run into anything different.

:dsm:

Haha well you seem to know a lot about a lot with these cars. Not the first time I've asked you directly for help and you always come through. Also my GSX never had ABS either, so I'd imagine my install will be almost identical as yours. I see many peoples boosters are very shiny? Did you all just paint them or something?
 
Ok...received my booster today. Looks to be the one needed. Much bigger than the stockie. The one I ordered was a NON-ABS booster out of a 2003 GT V6. Won't be able to have driving impressions for another couple weeks.

Also, Mine is a Reman. I'm gonna call the guy tomorrow and see exactly what the difference is between the two being offered. In hind sight, I should've just ordered both and really seen for myself. Just bolted it in. Easy Peasy. Just undid the P/S lines at their little junction points right above the master, played with the clutch line a little. Also, I found it was easier to unbolt the two bolts holding in the pedal assembly that are facing down towards the floor. It allows you to move the complete assembly around and get the bolt holes lined up. Especially helpful if doing it on your own.
 
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Has no one else noticed that the master and factory lines have different flared ends?
Mind taking a picture of your findings? John mentioned something similar to this in another thread last week and it's the first I had heard of it, I'd like to see it.

:dsm:
 
Absolutely. Just as soon as I learn how to put pics from my phone up on here. Lol.


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"inverted flare"

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"metric bubble flare"

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oem inverted flare
 
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"inverted flare"

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"bevel flare"


Thanks Uknowho...the fitting at the top came with my STM ABS delete kit. Notice the inverted flare. Now, the inside of the master is totally opposite. I went to the machine shop, and there's an Earls or Russell fitting that will work, but it's bevel flare to -3 AN line. Gonna see about an adapter for the factory lines for those not running full stainless lines.

If you want to do this job right, and you're running factory steel lines, this is what you need


Metric Flare - Inverted Flare Seat to Male Metric Thread Bubble Flare Adapter on Holyoke Fittings

Correction: The fitting thread pitch is 1.00. Again, the fitting is a 10x1.00 hopefully this will help.
 
Another solution would be to find a banjo fitting and matching bolt.

Russell 10mm Banjo 3 Brake Line Fitting - Street Motorcycle - Motorcycle Superstore

M10 x 1 0 Metric Banjo Bolt Brake Fittings Adaptor AUTOBAHN88 | eBay

That would be my solution. I can tell you from experience this method works.

I ran into a similar problem with my jeep, the BMC (brake master cylinder) has a bubble flare and an inverted flare. I needed to find an adapter to the bubble flare to -3AN but no one makes it, so I decided to use the banjo method, it works. Actually, it works a lot better than I thought it would, because the line coming off the MC is already at a 90* angle. Just make sure the banjo bolt is long or short enough, and those crush washers.

EDIT: same as the link above.

Heres a solution, but its adapters to 3/16 brake line, so it doesn't help people with -3AN fittings or STM ABS delete lines.
http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/SRR-BR505C.html?gclid=CK7q4fS__7UCFQSg4AodlwMAwA

The two lines look just like this, ignore the threaded part, its the flares thats important:
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I see what your saying, but even with a banjo bolt the problem I see is the little space created by not sealing the line properly. You know what I mean? Because you're not sealing up against the inside of the master, there's a little gap. Aside from the fact that you're relying on your threads to do a percentage of sealing. It's still an awesome upgrade, and I can't wait to drive this rig. Just saying that there's a way to do it 100% proper.
 
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Metric thread parts do not taper, so not matter what they need an alternative way of sealing. In this case the taper flare.

An alternative is a banjo fitting because it uses two crush washers to seal.

You do not rely on the threads to do any sealing when they are metric. Take for example our air oil cooler option, they all(90 style for 6 bolts or evo3 and evo8/9 for 7 bolts) use 16mm X 1.5 threaded ports. You need crush washers or o ring for it to seal to the oil filter housing. The banjo bolts on our CHRA use crush washers to seal, and they are 14mm x 1.5mm.

Banjo fittings and bolts will use a minimum of 2 crush washers.


A great example is the coolant return line on the MHI CHRA, I dont think applies 2gs with the t-25, it has a tapered seal like the brake lines. This line connects to the water pipe.
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May people replace this line with a DIY style AN line.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...340890-diy-replacement-water-supply-line.html
Note in this write up a metric to AN fitting is used for the waterpipe end that is tapered. It used a crush washer to seal.

I also agree, do it right or dont do it at all. This seems to be the most "proper" alternative.
 
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