urbansmoker1 said:

Diversion 165 is a great starter machine, uses a regular wall outlet.

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No it doesn't. The 165 is 220v ony. The diversion 180 is dual voltage.

Gamble97 said:

No it doesn't. The 165 is 220v ony. The diversion 180 is dual voltage.

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Crap inforgot you had to pay more for that feature, my bad. The 180 is a good choice i love mine. Will upgrade to a dynasty 200DX sooner or later.

It was almost 4AM when i posted that haha

urbansmoker1 said:

Crap inforgot you had to pay more for that feature, my bad. The 180 is a good choice i love mine. Will upgrade to a dynasty 200DX sooner or later.

It was almost 4AM when i posted that haha

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Dynasty is cool and overpriced. You want something that is just as good if not better at a LOT cheaper it's the HTP 221.
Invertig 221 TIG Welders, Invertig 221 TIG Welding Machine | USAWeld.com

Finally done.

Very nice. Two questions. Wheres your o2 sensor bung, and are you positive flex pipe will hold the waste gate pressures? I guess since its twin scroll there wouldn't be as much pressure out of two then with just one would.

Why the flex? How do you know when it's needed or not?

V8 guys run flex sections pre turbo in a lot of setups, so I have no doubt it will be fine for the dump tube off a gate.

urbansmoker1 said:

Very nice. Two questions. Wheres your o2 sensor bung, and are you positive flex pipe will hold the waste gate pressures? I guess since its twin scroll there wouldn't be as much pressure out of two then with just one would.

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Its in the downpipe.

Gamble97 said:

Why the flex? How do you know when it's needed or not?

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I got them because trying to mate up 4 flanges in a solid state could be pain in the ass working on it in the future. I paid 16$ each eBay. 1.5" If you buy some make sure they have a bellow and not 2 layer mesh.

SlowChild3 said:

Finally done.

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how much did that cost you in materials ?

$300 -$350

urbansmoker1 said:

You need smooth transitions and if your stick welds pertrude inside the pupe your effed. Like i said be good at stick and you MIGHT be okay.

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This is someone on this forums work. Forget who but gives you an idea, however im not even positive this is stick, it could be mig.

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i know the welds are not pretty but that's my first real mig project

Well does it work? Or dd you decide to tig another? Lol

oh yeah it works. the unequal length and twin scroll let me make boost on a 20G quite early (engine mods are in profile), 16psi at 3600rpm on a 3rd gear pull. I did a 22psi pull but it was before i dialed out the overlap and cleaned up the timing. Ended up hitting 24psi at 4000rpm. The transient response during autocross was all i hoped for in a twinscroll, short runner manifold.

my first few welds with my miller diversion. 100amps foot petal max, grey tungsten 18cfm argon with 1/32 filler rod er-70s on a 3/32 piece of scrap

^ you should be using 2% ceriated for the diversion, if your using what it came with then your fine.

Made a fuel cell for the car today.

urbansmoker1 said:

^ you should be using 2% ceriated for the diversion, if your using what it came with then your fine.

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Ceriated sucks. I never had good luck with it. 1.5% lanthanted (gold) or 2% blue is all I use

Hummmmmmm isnt lanthinated radioactive? Nvm thoriated is.
All the welds ive posted have been with ceriated.

Just did some research on lantianated, I'm definitely switching.

Lol I knew you would. I like blue but my teacher likes us to us hold. Can't really tell the differ eve between the two but they are both good.
Green should not be used on an inverter.
I tried the new e3 purple and don't care for it.
Red is hands down the best but radioactive. Also red leaves aluminum beads very shiny.

Try the gold and blue and I bet you won't go back to orange

My ceriated is grey. Blue looks to be 2% lanthinated gold is 1.5% lanthinated. I think I'll go blue. Says it's kick ass for stainless and aluminium.

Ceriated is orange too, depending in manufacturer.

the tip on my tungsten is gray, i can snap a pick for ya guys if you want. it is what came in my machine. i a few of my beads it seemed like the arch was breaking up and flashing brighter than usual? im not sure how to explain it as its never happened to me before. other than having a shaking hand it came back pretty quick.

i need an amperage scale to tape to my machine, does anyone have a good one?

Do you have the 165? Souds like you either dont have enough gas coverage or your ground has somethin goin on.

The 180 has the amperage scale your lookin for.

i have a 180, ya i saw that one, i guess im just not used to it. i have a #7 lense and i had the argon at 18cfm the ground was less than 6" away. it was on a uncleaned part of the scrap though?

Get a gas lens they are cheap and make a big difference. I have the same machine and i love it.