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1gb no power, boost,lean

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snakeyes711

10+ Year Contributor
647
0
Feb 5, 2009
W-S, North_Carolina
Ok, stock 6 bolt. Used a 2g mas, 580cc, maft tuner pro, s16g, 7" FMIC, 2" pipes. Innovate LM-1 wideband. ran great. I parked it for a few days after a family vacation, and when I started it back up after it never ran right again. New ECU, mas, turbo nothing changed.

I removed all of the AM stuff took it back to stock, and still the same. What it is it starts, idles fine. Cruising runs fine as soon as, I mean like won't climb a small hill, get on the gas Builds zero boost, maybe "2 psi." if you get on it a few seconds it goes straight lean, when you come off of it, it stays lean a few seconds, then comes back down to normal. I checked the plugs they are bone white! I mean china white! I have a logger with MMcd everything looks normal. I must add I believe someone may have screwed with this car while I'd been gone. My 18yr old son "says" he didn't touch it. But there is something just not right at all with this.

Any help or steering is appreciated.

J.King

come on guys, someone must have some input. Or a mod please move this where It can. thanks
 
Ide have a look at your fuel filter to start. When did you replace that last?
 
first thing I did was a fuel filter, its BASN (brand ass spanking new). The plumbing is tight as dicks hat band. The reason its not building boost is theres just zero power, and my guess is the ECU isn't feeding the fuel right? I haven't a clue what to try, TPS maybe?
 
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A failure for the computer to recognize boost would be in the MAF, did you test the TPS. There are guides on VFAQ for testing the electrical goodies as mentioned.

Could also be as simple as a big boost leak. So take all into account.
 
Alrighty, it started acting like crap after a family vacation?

1.) Have you done a boost leak test? An intake leak after the turbo would cause it to run lean on boost.

2.) Does the exhaust look like it's in good condition? A collapsed flex section could restrict the exhaust and make it run like crap under load.

3.) The white spark plugs is usually from Oil deposits. Only way oil would get in your intake is the turbo, (Since you replaced the turbo, this is out.) The intake valves guides, or the piston rings.

4.) Try a compression test? Blown rings would end up with combustion gasses passing into the oil pan, as well as allowing oil to stay in the cylinder during combustion, intake or exhaust valves being worn or stretched would end up with low compression and no power.

5.) Checked the torque of the exhaust components? Do you hear popping like an exhaust leak? anything burned?

6.) Check the timing? A tooth forward or back would throw it off.

7.) Got access to a boroscope? Take a look in the cylinders through the spark plug bore. If your son "borrowed" it he might have put 87 in it instead of 93 and driving it could be bringing power down, as well as causing detonation.

Hope this helps, or at the very least, it gives us a better idea as to how to diagnose where to go.

How does it rev in Neutral?
 
A failure for the computer to recognize boost would be in the MAF, did you test the TPS. There are guides on VFAQ for testing the electrical goodies as mentioned.

Could also be as simple as a big boost leak. So take all into account.

the only way I tested the TPS was logging it in MMcd. I replaced the maf twice, bought another 2g, then I went back to the stock 1g

Alrighty, it started acting like crap after a family vacation?

1.) Have you done a boost leak test? An intake leak after the turbo would cause it to run lean on boost.

2.) Does the exhaust look like it's in good condition? A collapsed flex section could restrict the exhaust and make it run like crap under load.

3.) The white spark plugs is usually from Oil deposits. Only way oil would get in your intake is the turbo, (Since you replaced the turbo, this is out.) The intake valves guides, or the piston rings.

4.) Try a compression test? Blown rings would end up with combustion gasses passing into the oil pan, as well as allowing oil to stay in the cylinder during combustion, intake or exhaust valves being worn or stretched would end up with low compression and no power.

5.) Checked the torque of the exhaust components? Do you hear popping like an exhaust leak? anything burned?

6.) Check the timing? A tooth forward or back would throw it off.

7.) Got access to a boroscope? Take a look in the cylinders through the spark plug bore. If your son "borrowed" it he might have put 87 in it instead of 93 and driving it could be bringing power down, as well as causing detonation.

Hope this helps, or at the very least, it gives us a better idea as to how to diagnose where to go.

How does it rev in Neutral?

It sat at home for 4-5 days without being started.

1: no, it would run rich if it were a boost leak after turbo, not lean. Think about it. Metered air leaking out, ECU still delivers fuel. trust me not BL.

2: has a braided exhaust, but. I'll inspect everything again.

3: exactly how would white spark plugs indicate oil? they would be oil soaked, and it would burn oil I'm thinking.

4: right on, I'll check compression ASAP, (that would sux BTW)

5: not sure if your talking about hardware?.

6: checked rechecked the rechecked, I'll check again. (I'm thinking that'd not causelean)

7: I actually do have a borescope, not a cheap one either. I will inspect them ASAP.

doesn't rev very well in neutral.
 
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the only way I tested the TPS was logging it in MMcd. I replaced the maf twice, bought another 2g, then I went back to the stock 1g



It sat at home for 4-5 days without being started.

1: no, it would run rich if it were a boost leak after turbo, not lean. Think about it. Metered air leaking out, ECU still delivers fuel. trust me not BL.

2: has a braided exhaust, but. I'll inspect everything again.

3: exactly how would white spark plugs indicate oil? they would be oil soaked, and it would burn oil I'm thinking.

4: right on, I'll check compression ASAP, (that would sux BTW)

5: not sure if your talking about hardware?.

6: checked rechecked the rechecked, I'll check again. (I'm thinking that'd not causelean)

7: I actually do have a borescope, not a cheap one either. I will inspect them ASAP.

doesn't rev very well in neutral.

Now that I'm looking at it again.

1.) You're right. I'm an idiot. Long day, Lol. XD
2.) The flex section of the exhaust, right after the down pipe, there have been several tuners have the inside of the flex section collapse on them, resulting in an obstruction.
3.) Depending on which manual you check out, one would read it as burning oil, another reads it as running too hot. BPR6ES right?
4.) Yeah it would.
5.) The hardware being the nuts and bolts that hold the exhaust bits on. Loose hardware( Nuts/bolts/studs) or a crack pre turbo would be letting exhaust gasses escape and not go through the turbo.
6.) True, just covering bases.
7.) As silly as it sounds, have you checked the coil packs for the ignition?

I'm stumped... fuel spark and air. Something has got to be at fault. Checked the oil for anything shiny, like shavings?
 
coil packs are BN diamond star motor OEM.

fuel pump runs like a champ (walbro 190lph) holds pressure on load also.

I had a friend think the TPS isn't sending signal to the ECM. I "did" have a tps code one time, thought it was a fluke because after checking it, it was plugged in after all. In mmcd the tps reads volts as normal I believe. At WOT it says 4.96V. Could the TPS STILL be bad?
 
still waiting for a few parts, and time to get at this problem.
 
Does it feel like its miss firing when you get on the gas and it wont build boost?
 
no, just zero power. I got a chance to get the new TPS on, the old one read infinity wt WOT. I installed the new one, along with some other stuff to button it up, and the problem still remains.

I must say it felt great to drive this old car again after 8 months of it sitting out back.

checked the coolant temp sensor, at operating temp read 225 ohms. I'm at a loss, wondering if somehow a fuel pressure issue? I checked the pump, blew all the lines out, and changed filters too.....



maybe I should just get another 190. I tried the stock pump I'd ran 16 PSI strong on and it before I put the walbro in, and it didn't make a difference?...
 
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brand new 190, no difference. On a different note, does anybody use an oil pan gasket? I thought they just used white RTV? I'm doing a new build.
 
My brothers 93 tsi was having simillar problems. Ended up being the fuel injector resistor pack.have you checked that?
 
no I haven't, matter of fact. I never heard of such thing. Where is it located? I did notice on MMCd, the injector MS pulses were way up in the 7-9's when accelerating...
 
Its a lil silver rectangular box on the fire wall. Should be right next to the throttle body.
 
Its a lil silver rectangular box on the fire wall. Should be right next to the throttle body.

Right on, you think if it acts up it could still fire the injectors? I seen some posts about that but they was no injector pulse.
 
Checked the Injector resistor pack. Got 0011 ohms, across some, and 000 on others. I believe we may have a winner! I'm looking around to get one.

Wait, is it supposed to be 10K to 6.5K ohms right?
 
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