pretty much what undefinded said.. id do it all now at the same time ( oil change, spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter if needed, plug wires if they need it) get her ready for the nice weather

updated log, with fully charged battery - still on 93oct.

still will not start on the BM1650's.

i also changed my DA injbatteryadj to be nearer to this post

log=14.03-01

my settings




--update--


i switched back to E85 just to see if anything changed... and well it fired and idled with a little throttle help.... so yeah...

on with the tuning i guess...

log= 19.21-01

Hey Thanks everybody & yes only when it is cold. Now that we have had consistent warmer temps it starts up every time. It wont do anything when cold outside, & when it was cold but warming up outside could hear clicking behind stereo, and every time it clicked the fuel pump turned off and on with the clicking. I know its a goofy thing its doing and does not make sense to me either. Especially with how low the miles are, now a little over 7,400 I will check out these new suggestions but if its not cold I fear I wont be able to know for sure till it gets really cold again. oh I also replaced plugs and wires also after it was sitting for so long. I will try to get some pics up soon.

Took a quick look at the last logs settings...

Just FYI you are making adjustments in DA AND your global fuel if you make them in DA you need to Zero out the deadtime adjustment in your ECM file... .

Long story short. I replaced a walbro 255 with a dw300. My fuel pressure was off so I adjusted it. Car was starting but missing in Cyl 4, after testing I narrowed it down to one of the injectors not flowing right or being clogged. So, I took them out and cleaned them. After putting them back in, the car starts for a second or two and then dies. Additionally, it smells like something is burning under the hood. Like a firecracker smell.

I have the firing order correct (4123).
Plugs are fine.
Everything is plugged back in that I can see.

Car worked great before the 255 went out.

Any suggestions? I'm not sure what to check next.


EDIT: Car started for about 15 seconds. I noticed the fuel pressure was 42psi, there was no fuel leaking, BUT there was an extreme amount of air escaping from somewhere on the top end of the engine, near the intake manifold. The car reved up to, and stayed at, 1900 rpms.

I would check to see whether you missed an injector seal.

I agree...also check the obvious things you might have skipped...fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose, pcv valve, fuel rail seated, upper intake hose removed?? clamped?

BLT would be a very good place to start

Firecracker/sulfur smell is usually related to the battery and can cause a host of issues.

Fuel rail bolt closes to the driver side has broken flush with the head. That injector won't seal properly and I cannot remove this bolt with an EZ out.

Would it be stupid to use some RTV around the injector seal to prevent air leaks? The other two bolts hold the rail on really tightly. I can't even move the rail with those two bolts on. Would RTV be so bad?

Otherwise, I would have to tow it to a shop and have them remove it, which would cost good money.
Other suggestions?

So, I went ahead and used some RTV and it stopped the leak.

BUT, the car still won't start unless I turn the fuel pressure up a lot. I need it to be up to 42psi (not capped) for the car to stay on. Otherwise, it will bog and die.

ok, here it is. 1990 GSX... swapped to a big 16g, 660cc injectors, and aeromotive fpr over the last few days, using a 3" gm maf, maft and datalogging to tune. got everything bolted up, reconnected the battery, no dome light, door ajar dinger or stereo, cranked it a few times with the crank sensor connector pulled to check for fuel leaks and to prime the turbo. reconnected it, cranked it for a while, nothing. cycled the fuel pump several times, cranked, cranked, cranked, popped once, then nothing. i put the stock injectors and fpr back in, reset the maft, but the battery was dead. gonna charge the battery at work tomorrow, then try again, but I'm at a loss. any ideas on where to start? all my fuses are intact, connections are in the right place as far as i'm aware, vacuum lines are routed correctly...

UPDATE: stock injectors & fpr, fired right up. so why wouldn't it start with the 660cc injectors and aero fpr? could it be because I ran out of time and wasn't able to install the walboro 255?

Either air is still getting in past the injector or the injector is still clogged. Was the fuel rail bolt broken the whole time or did it happen after your issue started?

Another suggestion...since you had that air leak you were probably running really rich in the other cylinders. Check your spark plugs for carbon fouling and clean them.

I know this is an old thread, but what was the solution because I am at the same point right now and going nuts. Any help would be appreciated.

MY1GDSM said:

Took a quick look at the last logs settings...

Just FYI you are making adjustments in DA AND your global fuel if you make them in DA you need to Zero out the deadtime adjustment in your ECM file... .

Click to expand...

thankyou for the heads up. what should the airflow per rev be on a 2.4l?


here is the first true idle log, still have to set base timing and fix a few leaks before going into road tuning.

So I just got my car back from English Racing and had it tuned with SD and V3 and i was testing out my launch control today. I did a launch and pulled until the end of 3rd gear WOT and then the car died. first thing i did was check my timing belt and then it started getting dark so I threw it on the flat bed and drove her home. I was wondering if anyone had any ideas for me. I'm gonna check my fuel pump and check for spark tomorrow other then that I don't really understand why it would just crap on me I do have a stock FPR and I have a 255walbro and 750cc FIC injectors. My brain is over whelmed right now I am mind boggled.

I would check your intercooler piping to see if a pipe came off, or if a coupler ripped. Happened to a friend of mine.

Iyaoyas said:

I would check your intercooler piping to see if a pipe came off, or if a coupler ripped. Happened to a friend of mine.

Click to expand...

as i said above, I'm running speed density there fore if i blew a coupler i could driver it still i have no mass air flow sensors that wouldnt affect me.

I can use some input. I'm going to check my fuel system today after work. first gonna make sure pump is working.

I wouldn't at this point get hung up on the numbers game...

Though there are one set of numbers you should look at. That may help not sure how much more I can do aside of this, unless I was just in control of things an doing the tune myself.

But anyway you are running a GM Maf natively with a ECMlink cable. Looking at the adjustments you are making with the MAF comp sliders. I'd say it would be a good Idea to take a look at what your first adjustment point really is (MAF RAW will tell you this)

1. Get that walbro installed. Might be a dumb question, but did you open the aeromotive to allow fuel to pass? and do you have a gauge on the regulator? If so, whats the pressure set to?

I put it back to a stock fuel system and it fired right up. But now it has an electrical gremlin and is burning a lot of oil and won't tune in. I'm going to sell it as-is for $1,500

I was driving my car in 3rd gear wot and shifted into 4th and the car died. I cant get it to start. I have a new ecu. Fuel Pump is fine. I have fuel in my fuel rail. could this be my cam angle sensor? all my hoses and fine and connected. No boost leaks. Im running dsmlink and speed density so I don't have to worry about any maf problems. My next step is to check for spark and then check my compression but I left all my tools at work, just wanted to see if someone who knew what they were talking about could give me some ideas. thanks. oh and my timming belt is fine.

PPiechocki said:

I put it back to a stock fuel system and it fired right up. But now it has an electrical gremlin and is burning a lot of oil and won't tune in. I'm going to sell it as-is for $1,500

Click to expand...

Cant spell disappointment without DSM I been building mine since 2010. 90's are weird just take your time with it and be patient don't give up. If you do decide to keep it go threw and do maintenance.

Your best bet will be to make sure the timing of the cams are still spot on turn it over and make sure the two marks on the gears meet in the middle like this ( )-( ) the dash being the middle and these ( ) being the cam gears where the marks will meet each other. If those are spot on then you might want to jack it up and take the drivers side wheel off along with the external belts(water pump+power steering and AC)waterpump pulleys,crank pulley and the timing cover and check that your crank is still timed with the cams. You can also check the alternator & make sure you didn't blow some kind of fuse with in the fuse box. You can check all your IC pipes & couplers. Power transistor, coil pack, cas, & ecu. These will all cause a no spark situation, however make sure that you are grounding the plug good.

Hope this Helps

Pull the plug wires and and CAS rotate it to see if you have spark( careful not to be the ground for the wires ).

If you do and are getting fuel only thing left is to check compression... . T-belt can be still intact and still jump time. As said verify your Timing is in fact spot on.

If that all checks out if have Ecmlink if you can post a log it would more then likely tell anyone looking more from a good log trying to start what may be going on.

Though before anything I would make sure that your timing is 1000% spot on to save time.

Edit: was slow to post post above is a good start...

alrighty well ill for spark. and ill get back to you guys thanks for the input.

you've got a great car, thats way too low to get rid of it. If it fires now thats more than 1500, but how are you tuning is the good question??