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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
Richmond_Va.
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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TG924... When the Hg was replaced a 1000 miles ago, Do you know if the head was surfaced? Also what HG was used?
 
Thank you guys. I had time to mess with it tonight and it looks like my temp guage is lying to me. It will be as high/hot reading as possible but the lazer thermo only reads 180 at the thermostat housing. I drove it and kept checking it and probably did this for 15-20 miles and still normal readings the whole time while the guage said in the red.
 
Awesome glad you got it figured out, sounds like you need a temp sensor/ sending unit for the gauge. It's the smaller of the two temp sending units on the t-stat housing with one wire connecting to it FYI.
 
I bought one of those and put it on earlier this week and it is still off. I guess it is messed up somewhere along the way. I guess I could follow that wire to make sure it is ok or it is messed up in the cluster. I am looking at after market guages as well liking the digital ones.
 
Aftermarket is the way to go with a correct true read out. Most electronic gauges will come with their own sending unit that should screw into the same place on the t-stat housing tho disconnecting hour factory gauge.
 
Temps still reading normal other than heater core hoses. One hose reads around 150 and the other 100 even as low as 90 so I guess there is some air or blockage in there. Guage still all over ther place though. No water in oil and car runs fun back to running an open thermo.

Could a clogged heater core thow my guage off. I know it could keep me from getting heat. I am also gonna have the head gasket tested tomorrow or wednesday.
 
I am having cooling problems again. My stock temp gauge has ceased working. I'm just going to get a new one. The radiator slim fans stopped working on me after a recent radiator repair. A/C is deleted. Thermostat is fairly new, and coolant hose is pretty damn warm like it should be. But on occasions, she'll start to overheat in stop and go traffic. I don't drive more than 10 miles with her in her current condition and drive her pretty gentle most of the time.

Only way I know that she is overheating, is because the steaming from the rad cap. Like I said, this is only during stop and go, or idleing. When shes on the highway, everything is normal and runs strong minus a few supporting mods.

Anyways, does this sound like the radiator fans not being on is causing this. I didn't think that those tiny ass fans would help much, but I know they are there for a reason... I think I made myself clear. I'm a jackass that needs some help. At least I posted this shit in the right place. Reputation points please
 
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I am having cooling problems again. My stock temp gauge has ceased working. I'm just going to get a new one. The radiator slim fans stopped working on me after a recent radiator repair. A/C is deleted. Thermostat is fairly new, and coolant hose is pretty damn warm like it should be. But on occasions, she'll start to overheat in stop and go traffic. I don't drive more than 10 miles with her in her current condition and drive her pretty gentle most of the time.

Only way I know that she is overheating, is because the steaming from the rad cap. Like I said, this is only during stop and go, or idleing. When shes on the highway, everything is normal and runs strong minus a few supporting mods.

Anyways, does this sound like the radiator fans not being on is causing this. I didn't think that those tiny ass fans would help much, but I know they are there for a reason... I think I made myself clear. I'm a jackass that needs some help. At least I posted this shit in the right place. Reputation points please
The term radiator is a fancy word for a heat exchanger and, simply put, if there's no cool air flowing through your radiator (to transfer the heat out of the coolant system) then it's going to overheat. You may check your radiator fan fuses, its not necessarily the fan that's bad maybe just a fuse popped.

Get the fan working or don't slow down. :idontknow:

:dsm:
 
I agree with Kaotic. Dump the oil and check for coolant . it will be obvious as day if there is water getting in the oil.

also, pressure test the coolant system. this will show any leaks. If the system is dry you may even hear it.

Ide suggest a compression test once everything is all back together too.

When Kaotic said "cam gear block" , he was referring to the handy tool that was designed to keep the cam gears lined up properly during the timing belt installation. Or else the cam gears want to spin away from eachother making it harder to keep the belt on. When I didnt have this tool, I used 2 large crescent wrenches on the camshafts, and pulled the wrenches together to where the timing marks on the cam gears lined up, then I zap strapped the wrenches together.

It would also be wise to get the tensioner pulley tool too. its needed to set the pulley to its perfect tension.

Im not sure if you have a balance shaft or not, but you may also require the tool to set that aswell. its a rod thats inserted into the block from the back . It keeps the oil pump and balance shaft in phase while doing the timing belt(s).

Hope this is some help
 
Im now confused my car has a 170 thermostat. I did a pressure test on the cooling system and it holds fine at 16 psi. new radiator and flushed system... car still runs about 200 degrees when driving on freeway... no water in oil either im kinda stumped? possible water pump? any symptoms for water pump I should look for?
 
Mine runs at 200 also, but i have one stock cooling fan and stock tstat with a koyo rad. Sometimes i see as high as 206 in traffic. Your not over heating, plus a 170 t stat doesn't mean your engine will stay at 170, it just means thats the temperature the t stat STARTS to open at.
 
Try using water wetter by redline if you want it to be lower, also make sure you got good flow could be sticky thermostat or water pump issues.
 
just to let you know, just because there is no visible collant/oil mix dosent mean there isnt a head gasket problem. you could get a head gasket tester and test it, its really easy.
 
You are not overheating. the thermostat is meant to open at 170. but after it opens it just circulates over and over, in this case the circulation/cooling works no better than to maintain it at 200~.

It will re-close itself at 170 to allow the engine to warm up properly.

However, You make no mention of what fluid you used. if you use 100% coolant than you are ok.
BUT if you use tap water then it will boil when hot and create air pockets and start to overheat your system, even may blow a hose, seal or something. So consider using distilled water, it doesnt boil although it will explode if its superheated.
 
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You are not overheating. the thermostat is meant to open at 170. but after it opens it just circulates over and over, in this case the circulation/cooling works no better than to maintain it at 200~.

It will re-close itself at 170 to allow the engine to warm up properly.

However, You make no mention of what fluid you used. if you use 100% coolant than you are ok.
BUT if you use tap water then it will boil when hot and create air pockets and start to overheat your system, even may blow a hose, seal or something. So consider using distilled water, it doesnt boil although it will explode if its superheated.
 
I know I have posted the math a few times, but I will again.

200* is not over heating

Water boils at 212* at seal level

For every lb of pressure the rad cap holds allows 3* over the boil point.

So a 13lb cap will raise the boil point by 39*

so 212* + 39* = 251* is boil point
 
Well Ive flushed the system to eliminate that when I put in thermostat. My fans are manually controlled I hit them when I get to 170 via aftermarket temp gauge. I of course use distilled water no antifreeze with two bottles of water wetter... im pretty much set im going to do a water pump dis week sometime. just don't know when cause the guy I got the car from gave me receipts for rebuild I think they just replaced the block and bottom end which means my water pump just hit 70k miles so ill replace just to be safe till I do six bolt head swap
 
ok this morning my gsx overheated. I am confused on something and want to see if anyone knows what my problem is.

first off
i have a mishimoto radiator
my fans are wired to always on

So its overheating with both my fans on, nothing is coming out the reservoir, no white smoke from the exhaust, the upper hose seems hot but the radiator is not. What puzzles me is that i pour radiator fluid into the radiator, i can see it leaking out of where my turbo and bottom intercooler pipe meet.?!?

what is this??? why is this happening?
 
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