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Which clutch [Merged 3-9] what clutch best

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rayden

20+ Year Contributor
140
0
Apr 15, 2002
Ky
ok i am going to get a new clutch for my car. i was wandering which one i should go with. i was thinking of the act 2100. Dont think i want the 2600 because it is a daily driven car and will only go to the track a couple times a year. if there are some other brands you all would suggest let me know. i want a good streetable clutch for a cheap budget.
 
Still cannot go wrong with the Southbend SS-TZ clutch kit. It's engagement is extremely light and smooth.

That's the one I would recommend.
 
I'm still trying to figure out how you're blowing clutches on a stock turbo (T25) 2g car. You're not making over 300 whp nor torque. Are you sure you're driving is not the problem?

Edit: snowborder beat me to it.
 
I'm still trying to figure out how you're blowing clutches on a stock turbo (T25) 2g car. You're not making over 300 whp nor torque. Are you sure you're driving is not the problem?

Edit: snowborder beat me to it.

I know 100% my driving isn't the problem, had a camaro with a stock clutch for about 3 years and I learned how to drive a stick on that car. Never launched my eclipse on this clutch or anything just regular driving. I know a few big name dsm tuners that said exedy is a cheap clutch and to get a full disc not a 3 puck and I would have better luck with them. As far as installation I had a dealer do it so it should be fine.
 
As far as installation I had a dealer do it so it should be fine.

That could be a bad assumption.

Some things you'd want to know is if they checked the flywheel step and adjusted the master cylinder properly after installing the new clutch. Both of these can sometimes be overlooked and/or unknown if you're not doing it 100% properly. Then there's things that can band-aid a bad situation like using an extended slave cylinder rod.

Always use OEM parts and ideally replace them with brand new ones when you do a clutch. Master/slave should be as well, but can be omitted if you know they're in good, working condition.
 
That could be a bad assumption.

Some things you'd want to know is if they checked the flywheel step and adjusted the master cylinder properly after installing the new clutch. Both of these can sometimes be overlooked and/or unknown if you're not doing it 100% properly. Then there's things that can band-aid a bad situation like using an extended slave cylinder rod.

Always use OEM parts and ideally replace them with brand new ones when you do a clutch. Master/slave should be as well, but can be omitted if you know they're in good, working condition.

Wow couldn't have given better advice, had them check and the flywheel is shot as well, going to be getting the sameone which is a fidanza light weight aluminum flywheel with the act2100 clutch kit.
 
Wow couldn't have given better advice, had them check and the flywheel is shot as well, going to be getting the sameone which is a fidanza light weight aluminum flywheel with the act2100 clutch kit.

No problem. As I said, there's a lot to consider. Make sure they check the new flywheel before it's installed.
RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

Then here's a good video on how to adjust the master cylinder after everything is installed.
Proper Clutch Adjustment - YouTube
 
I have the fidanza flywheel on my 6 bolt. I dont know if i would really recommend it for daily driving. It makes the car hard to idle without dsmlink and also with a 6 puck clutch makes it very hard in pulling out in snow. It flywheel causes the clutch to be very jumpy.. I dont know the affect performance wise because i never ran the car without the fidanza flywheel.
 
So my mods are in my profile, I'll be adding the AEM meth kit, and FP2 cams to the car here in a month or so, however its time for a new clutch. Got the old ACT2600 out, and its time. I hear about the southbend clutch kits alot on here now, so with about a 500HP mark, what clutch is good for street/strip? The car sits 9-10 months out of the year, when I do drive it, its minimal. However I'll be taking it to the track a little this summer.

If the southbend is the way to go, where is the go-to place to purchase? Would really like to do this once, thanks all for the input!:)
 
I have a exedy organic stage 1, sprung full disc, ready to go in soon.. supposed to handle 300+ but we'll see.. have a feeling it wont be my last clutch but i was looking at a competition clutch twin disc a while back but the price was a little steep. Currently have a centerforce performance upgrade to stock... lasted 3 years about 50 launches and then i did my exhaust and turbo upgrade and it couldnt hold the power anymore... I did over rev about 3 launches and it burned up prety good so thats probably what did it in the end, next time I launch ill be using launch control to save my clutch
 
Actually something I'm interested in as well. Had an act 2600 with full face disc. Didn't have a problem with it, but now I'm looking at a build of 450-500 wheel and need a new clutch.

Would also like something possibly with a lighter pedal feel than the 26, but that can hold the 500+
 
So my mods are in my profile, I'll be adding the AEM meth kit, and FP2 cams to the car here in a month or so, however its time for a new clutch. Got the old ACT2600 out, and its time. I hear about the southbend clutch kits alot on here now, so with about a 500HP mark, what clutch is good for street/strip? The car sits 9-10 months out of the year, when I do drive it, its minimal. However I'll be taking it to the track a little this summer.

If the southbend is the way to go, where is the go-to place to purchase? Would really like to do this once, thanks all for the input!:)

For South Bend Clutch options, you are going to need to look at the SS-X pressure plate (2700# clamping force, but softer pedal feel than an ACT2600 PP), and one of the following disk options:

TZ-Series = full Kevlar sprung-hub full-face disk (best for street use); super smooth engagement, longer break-in period than an organic street disk, but considerably longer lifespan. If the flywheel friction surface is media blasted with an Aluminum Oxide blast media (80grit or 120grit) to increase surface porosity and remove the super-fine machined finish of a new or resurfaced flywheel, you will have better break-in period on the clutch as well as reduce the potential for slipping/glazing the disk from excessive launches from racing. This disk is best used with a daily driver street car. Minimal pressure plate/flywheel side wear will occur with normal use. The flywheel must be machined perfectly flat at 0.610-0.612" step height to work properly and have even wear patterns. This disk is very capable when the proper friction surfaces are used.

TZ/FE-Series = dual friction Kevlar/Feramic full-face disk (best for street use with minimal stop/go driving, as well as good for road race/auto-X/drag racing. The Feramic side works well, but has a temperature limitation prior to the exceedance of the Kevlar material which means that you can potentially friction weld the Feramic material to your flywheel if your clutch is improperly adjusted and not fully disengaging, or if you are doing excessive launches without cool-down, or stuck in long-term stop & go driving. Moderate flywheel side (feramic side) wear will occur with normal use.

TZ/B-Series = dual friction Kevlar/Ceramic full-face disk (best for street use with no limitations to stop/go driving, or track use) uses Kevlar on the pressure plate side for silky smooth clutch modulation and engagement with a higher temperature range and longer lasting Ceramic flywheel friction material that can handle more heat and wear than the Feramic. It will not have the potential to friction weld the material to the flywheel. Low to moderate flywheel side (ceramic side) wear will occur with normal use.

B-Series = Ceramic full-face disk with 8 segmented pads on each side of disk (best for street or race use with no limitations). This disk is slightly more crisp engagement than the TZ/B-Series disk listed above, but still is dramatically more streetable than a 6-puck/4-puck or solid-hub clutch disk. Very easy to drive, very capable under launching, heat, and abuse. Great material overall with low to moderate friction surface wear patterns from normal use.

All of these disks work best with the stock flywheel, ACT Streetlite flywheel, Competition Clutch flywheel, or comparable flywheel with a confirmed 0.610-0.612" flywheel step height. These disks do work with the Fidanza flywheel as well, but take caution to overheating your clutch as the Fidanza replacement carbon steel friction surface has a tendency to warping and will unevenly wear the disk over time. If you take care of the clutch, the Fidanza will work without problems.


In your case, I would recommend the SS-X pressure plate with TZ/B clutch disk, along with picking up a new OEM TOB.

Also be sure that your clutch fork, pivot ball, clutch master cylinder/slave cylinder/hydraulics are up to snuff and have no problems or excessive wear/leakage, etc.

If you are replacing your flywheel, don't forget to replace your flywheel bolts with the proper length (21.2mm for 7-bolt FWD/AWD applications or 22.5mm for 6-bolt FWD/AWD applications).



Actually something I'm interested in as well. Had an act 2600 with full face disc. Didn't have a problem with it, but now I'm looking at a build of 450-500 wheel and need a new clutch.

Would also like something possibly with a lighter pedal feel than the 26, but that can hold the 500+

In your case, I would go with the same recommendation -- SBC SS-X pressure plate and TZ/B dual friction disk.


Similar goals.

If you are going to be seeing considerably more track racing time than street driving, I would go with the B-Series full Ceramic disk.

INFO: http://www.tmzperformance.com/Mitsubishi Clutch Parts.html
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey guys quick rundown on what I have going. I am putting in a fresh motor with cams, front mount, s16gT 850 Injectors BS delete and tuning with link, its going to be a toy so im not daily driving it, should I go with a streetable clutch or with something that can handle weekend drags? Also I would like to stick with ACT brand. Thanks for the help.
 
A really good setup would be the ACT 2600 pressure plate with either a kevlar or ceramic disc. For the street I would recommend the TZ-series sprung full-face kevlar disc and for drag I would run the full B-series ceramic disc...depends on what you plan on doing with the car. This setup should be more than stout for your setup with plenty of room to grow. Check out TMZ performance for more info on the discs.
 
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