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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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i have a flow test sheet from FIC that came with the injectors saying that they are matched within .5%

i know of people not using a transformer box using these injectors but i also know of some who do.

FIC does not say it is required or maybe required.

i have emailed FIC about this already and will probably hear back from them tomorrow i hope.

If it shot them out its definitely an issue with the injectors. Since you have a gauge, you could bolt the rail and and when it pressurizes, manually set the injectors off. Use a power probe, or small pins wraped with wire. One power one ground and touch one to each injector pin and see of it releases the pressure.
 
If it shot them out its definitely an issue with the injectors. Since you have a gauge, you could bolt the rail and and when it pressurizes, manually set the injectors off. Use a power probe, or small pins wraped with wire. One power one ground and touch one to each injector pin and see of it releases the pressure.

only problem with that is that the fuel pump is on a switch so if i pulse an injector manually and keep it open it will fill the cylinder with fuel, flooding it.

unless i stop the pump after it has pressurized the rail. ill give it a shot tomorrow.
 
i tested the 1650's today by hooking a 9v battery to each one, and all clicked normally... FIC seems to think that its a signal voltage issue, not allowing a short enough pulse width.

is there a way of boosting the signal voltage at the injectors?
 
You would pretty much have to boost your whole electrical system cant you do something in link with the battery and the injectors IIRC
 
Please charge up your battery. While your cranking it drops below 9v. The cranking RPM is also pretty low.
The Injector on time while cranking is huge at 5 to 7 ms.

Is your GM MAF natively connected using the ECMLink cable?
 
Okay so i made a post on here awhile back about my tsi, it got a little frozen over the winter, ive since thawed it all out and i cant get it to start. Ive replaced the battery didnt help, and ive looked at the flywheel its fine, and its in time. When i stored it for the winter the only known engine issue was that it had a bad camshaft position sensor. Now it just cranks hard and sounds horrible. It will also backfire after cranking, but the cam gears and tdc match up? Im out of ideas as to what it could be other than a warped head or a cracked block. Looking for fast knowledgable help to get her up and running again. Thanks
 
Way to vague to diagnose however I read your other and did you drain the cooling system for storage? If you have water only in the cooling system and didn't drain before winter you could have more than a few issues FYI.
 
Well one if the Cam Shaft Position sensor was bad, it will cause problems in it's self such as the sounding horrible almost like a miss time? Also for the 96 it's under the exhaust cam gear, and needs to be put on the car in a certain way from my understanding.

It takes a bit for me to start mine up right now, it'll crank and start, but I'm going to get a new Cam Pos. Sensor. More than likely it'll work for me, replace that and get back to us.


If you have water only in the cooling system and didn't drain before winter

When he said store I assumed inside somewhere it couldn't reach below freezing.
 
yeah, I did not drain anything, I just poured more anti freeze in the car and stored it. unfortunately this was my first time storing a car for the winter...
And its a 7 bolt engine in the car so the cam sensor is on the top right of the head.
 
When he said store I assumed inside somewhere it couldn't reach below freezing.

Assuming is not good we need more specifics mainly what you have already looked at to help eliminate some possibilities. What check list have you completed?
 
Oh whoops heh, But yeah its under your intake cam gear, it needs to be put it in a certain way even still. I can't say replacing it is a cure, but it's a start. For some reason I was thinkin of the 420a even having cams on the right side, and it being under the exhaust cam, confused my own damn self.

Assuming is not good we need more specifics mainly what you have already looked at to help eliminate some possibilities. What check list have you completed?

Well none other than the sensor being bad. Yeah, but saying the word "store" leaves anyone to assume it was inside a garage, or a barn. I know I don't tell people I stored my car when it's outside, but that's just me. I also know my garage stays about 50 degree min in winter.


Again, I'm still stuck on replacing the cam shaft sensor. And you're 100% sure you timed it correctly?
 
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Your gonna have to go thre and check everything Compression,double even triple check your timing,your injectors,areyou getting fire and fuel?
 
If he has a true 96 CAS the 1Gs dont work because they are not the same as the 95-96. they are under the intake gear on the drivers side not on the passengerside of the head

1g wouldn't matter regardless is a "true 96." If it was on the passenger side he has a 6 bolt swap or a 97+ 7 bolt, but since he said it's in the Top Left he's using the 95-96. 6 Bolt CAS doesn't work without replacing the 7 bolt CAS and the sensor on the harness, and you can def tell the difference between the two.

Anyways just replace your cam position sensor, test for boost leaks, check/replace spark plugs and if you're getting a CEL, o2 sensor could make it run like doo doo also. Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump. Some times when you store a car and start it up rust sits in the Fuel Filter then gets sucked in clogging the filter.

Also don't use that platinum junk for your plugs. Even just stock, it burning hotter I think stock gap is .035 or something like that, will make a difference. .040 is probably ok even.
 
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Please charge up your battery. While your cranking it drops below 9v. The cranking RPM is also pretty low.
The Injector on time while cranking is huge at 5 to 7 ms.

Is your GM MAF natively connected using the ECMLink cable?

yes the MAF is connected with ECMlinks cable, and grounded.

this was just a quick log to show my issue, after about 4 hours of cranking and no start, it has been on a charger for the last couple of days.

---update---

FIC suggested that i mess with the pulse width on the 1650's to try and get them to work so
re-installed the 1650's, still on 93oct.

i messed with the settings of the global fuel and deadtime and no change i adjusted the deadtime across the board from 100-1100usecs with not even a cough out of the engine, i added even more but changing the voltage based injector deadtime adjustment in the direct access part of ECMlink, added another 500usecs to all volt settings 7v-19v and still not even a sputter.

changed my global fuel trim from the -72% all the way up to -30% in -5% intervals with a deadtime of 500usecs and still nothing.

managed to get it to fire,cough and sputter on -10% global fuel and 500usecs deadtime.

going to have to wait a while before i can carry on as my Optima red top is loosing its juice with all this cranking! hahaha.
 
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I would test the sensors before replacing, if mech timing is correct and you have fuel at the rail then I would say its a good possibility, you have a timing sensor corrupted. Check the crank shaft position sensor, cam position sensor and also the leads on the harness of both to test the ecu output. I can post how to test these when I get to my desktop tonight if you need. While your at it you could double check the tps and maf also with a multimeter just to help eliminate any possibilities.
 
you got test and elimanate some of the sensors and ect... spark plug, spark plug wire, coil pack, cam sesor, crank sensor, if you are getting spark and rule out spark issues, time check with fuel. fuel pump, filter and so on.
 
I'm not really sure I understand completely. Your car starts when its warm, correct? It shouldn't make a difference. If it were your fuel pump relay then your fuel pump shouldn't even turn on, and your car shouldn't start period. Although the clicking usually means it's a bad relay.. I'm not sure, but I would replace the plugs first since you need them anyway and then replace the relay later if you have to.
 
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