Hi guys i just failed my second smog test. First test i failed because of engine knock and was told to check my egr valve. I cleaned my egr and fixed some misrouted vacuum lines and fixed those too.

Failed again for same reason. My smog guy keeps telling me its the egr valve causing knock if not than its my cat. I have no check engine lights and my car's running pretty well. Idle is kinda lopey but sits around 1000-1350 and changes when i turn the biss screww.

Hoping to find help here from someone experienced. Thanks.

Some more back round on the car: Iv got 1162 miles on a new 6 bolt block. New knock sensor. New pcv valve. Old egr valve, old o2 sensor. I could probably check my timing but car drives smoothly. New plugs/wires. Wally 190lph. Intake pipe and 3" catback. One thing in my mind is that the check valve underneath battery is pretty beat up.

I think I figured it out.. to pass smog, simply move out of cali!! That place sucks ass with smog. Even my cavalier had trouble passing there, wayyy to strict for their own tree-hugging selves.

^ Pisses me off. All this work and some stupid numbers are getting in my way of driving legit.

I hear ya. Thats one of the reasons I left ca. Smog there is insane. They make it so that anything other than oem will fail. Only suggestion I could give, is piece together an oem exhaust and throw that on for smog. And then replace it.

Plus your idle seems kinda high.. shouldnt be more than around 900-1000 with typical idle being in the area lf 650-700rpms. Adjust the biss for that range and cap it off. If your missing the cap you can either order one (extremepsI sells one for like $10 I think) or you can put a few drops of rtv in there and let it cure. Problem solved

Thats really not the best way of adjusting the BISS. BISS That will help out more than just adjusting it blindly.

A lot of people that smog vehicles are idiots, they read from scripts and throw out "general" repair info. What are the values that are being shown from the sniffer test? Post up HC, NOX, cO, cO2 and oxygen and let us look it over.

Il post up the numbers soon. I understand its pretty easy to get a smog license

Bottle of rubbing alcohol and or a lean tune

My second test.

All the hassle to smog in CA, I never waste my time trying to pass anymore. Looks like your high on NO? Giving me a headache trying to read it sideways .

Just pay. Honestly it's impossible to pass here. I pay a little extra and get passed.

I think the smog guy is right on with the egr valve being bad. Usually if its a bad cat your numbers will be high in all the test. Since yours is just in the n0 and being that their that high I'd say the valve is not working properly if at all.

x98awddsm said:

I think the smog guy is right on with the egr valve being bad. Usually if its a bad cat your numbers will be high in all the test. Since yours is just in the n0 and being that their that high I'd say the valve is not working properly if at all.

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I went and tried testing the egr valve and hooked up to a vacuum gauge it held vacuum good but which ever vacuum hose i unplugged it made no difference with how the car ran. Does this sound like i need to replace it?

If your idle didn't change when u hooked up the vacuum, I'd replace the valve. Do u have any other problems with the car? Overheating or running hot?

I did stall a couple times i think was due to some mixed up hoses but i think i fixed that. The thermostat always sits below halfway. I cant think of too much else.

EGR could definitely be the culprit but so could a host of other things. First, I would go through all the vacuum lines and make sure they are connected properly. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html Next, set your idle properly. 1G BISS Adjustment Finally, check thoroughly for any exhaust leaks, a pre-cat leak will mimic a lean condition and show high NOx readings while making the HC's and cO readings look good.

So its been a while since I posted . My car right now has a check engine light that shows the egr the valve is messing up. It's been running extremely slow and the gauges say there's no boost after 5 psi.

Iv set the base timing with a light and adjusted the bids idle screw. Spark plugs look good and so do the rest of the vacuum hoses. Only things I could think of that might be getting in my way is the purge control valve and there might be leaks from my exhaust manifold.

I havnt been able to find a new replacement and I'm thinking I should remove it and get it smogged illegally . Will removing the egr system get my car running right again?

I have owned several dsms and never have much trouble with smog as long as you have a healthy engine, a good catalytic converter and fuel trims are inline. Also, make sure you run your car hot, like freeway driving for a while hot then dont turn it off after. Just let it idle waiting.

This last 2G i have even passed with AFPR, 255 LPH, 50 trim, huge front mount and aftermarket BOV.

Yes it does matter where you take it. I always go to test only places to avoid "we can fix these items" so you can pass. They test it, visually look at it then it's up to them if they want to pass or fail you based on visual.

Update:
Iv found out the tension on my timing came lose and gave me the symptoms I explained earlier. I did the timing belt and set base timing with a gun. Iv cleaned the egr as good as I can so hopefully I can get it smogged tomorrow morning.