How did you check your clutch switch unless it was with a ohm meter a "its clicking" test is not enough if you want get it started just unplug the wires that go to the clutch switch

dsmgst1996 said:

How did you check your clutch switch unless it was with a ohm meter a "its clicking" test is not enough if you want get it started just unplug the wires that go to the clutch switch

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This clutch switch he speaks of is under the clutch pedal. When you push the pedal in to turn the car on, the clutch switch tells the ecu or something that it is pressed in and the car can turn on. If you aren't pushing the clutch in then your car will never turn on.

Thanks. I found it. Unplugged it. Its good now. Finally driving it.

well just because the fuel pump turns on doesn't mean that it's putting out enough pressure to start and run your car. I think you're on the right track with the fuel pump though. Make sure that it is coming on and then do a pressure Check.

Alrighty I have a 98 GSX with 7,248 original miles on it. Ive been looking through all the forum posting but don't see my particular problem and that is once it gets below say 35 degrees out it wont start!! now this is what i have noticed the fuel pump will not turn on when i turn the key it will normally prime before turning the car over but not when cold out. I have been thinking for a while that it may be the fuel pump relay but before trying to remove that pain in the ass to get at i wanna check if anyone else has had this problem? oh & Ive also read that it could be the CPS how I'm not sure but willing to consider it. My car also has a Walbro 255 & an AEM stand alone EMS that I'm hoping is not temperamental. Any ideas or same problem fixes would be appreciated. I was just in a big car accident and need my baby to run cause my daily was totaled

a couple nights ago i was skimming through some post on here & recall seeing someone mention something about the injector resistor pack *could* cause a turbo dsm to not start so well in cold conditions.

i would link the post if i could remember what post that was.
cursed STML!

Does it start when it's warm out? It could be a simple problem like spark plugs. I had the same problem with my gsx. I had ngk 7's and they're not good for starting in cold weather. I'd suggest trying new spark plugs, I replaced mine with ngk 6's and it starts much better in the cold.

Mine dont start in the cold either...My 550 CCA battery just doenst have enough juice when its cold out to start the car..

I would get the battery checked..I got mine checked, but the person who sold me the batery says it checks out..But I dont beleive him.

please help me with my no start issue, i am having a real hard time diagnosing what is wrong.

a bit of history,

had a 4g63 in the car which ran great and started every time with no issues... the engine span a main bearing and i pulled it from the car.
i built the current engine which i am trying to get to run, i simply pulled the harness off the old one and re-installed on the new engine and have a no start issue.

91 talon TSI
G4CS with 4G63 head
9.5:1 pistons wiseco k626m87
MAP rods
OEM crank
Crower 280 cams (degreed in)
new OEM front case and oil pump
FIC Bluemax 1650cc injectors
Fuel pressure regulated at 43psi.
Coil on plug ignition
NGK bpr6es gapped at .022"
push button start (keystart won't register)
link v3
Q45 throttle body.
78 series redtop battery
GM maf


the engine cranks over freely, and DOES start with starter fluid, but has a AFR of 17:1, indicating that it is not getting any fuel.



so it has ignition and compression but does not seem to be getting any fuel.

compression is 175 across the board, and it still hasn't broken in yet, as for the fact that its only ran on starter fluid.

i confirmed ignition by hand rotating the CAS while the key was in the on position all four coils fired, while rotating the CAS by hand all four injectors also pulsed;
i have 43psi at the fuel rail and i have Ohm'd the resistor box achieving the required 6ohms, there is 12v on both wires on the injector clips on all four injectors (this is correct isn't it?)

the check engine light turns on when key is turned and goes off after five seconds, it is also sending the injector pulse verified by logging "injon" in DSMlink.

i thought it must be the fuel since is was using E85. so i drained the tank and filled it with 5 gallons of 93 octane petrol, the no start issue is still at large.

i read that the Bluemax's sometimes stick, so i turned the car over with no fuel pressure to see if the injectors would start working alas to no avail.
i have also messed with the deadtimes from 300-1100 usecs with no change.

i will attach a log of me trying to start the engine. (on e85)

it has two throttle sweeps then a 15 second crank with three blips of the throttle.

truly stumped on this one and any experienced help will be greatly appreciated.

Interesting, any chance you have tested the mfi relay? Odd that you have pressure at rail but none burned.

Remove the rail with injectors and crank it over to be sure its actually spraying, if you haven't done that. And you say youve verified pressure at the rail during cranking?
Also take the plugs out and see what they look like.

Remove the rail with injectors and crank it over to be sure its actually spraying, if you haven't done that.

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Be careful here this can be dangerous especially in a closed garage fumes and sparks do not go in a garage just my.02

1995silvergst said:

Be careful here this can be dangerous especially in a closed garage fumes and sparks do not go in a garage just my.02

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Correct, sorry I should advise to absolutely make sure to disconnect the coils. And outside.

Ran into the same problem with my 2g last week. Turned out the IAC burned and took the ecu with it. My injectors werent firing just like yours. I suggest test the IAC and then swap for a known good ECU.

Jankenshank said:

i confirmed ignition by hand rotating the CAS while the key was in the on position all four coils fired, while rotating the CAS by hand all four injectors also pulsed;
i have 43psi at the fuel rail and i have Ohm'd the resistor box achieving the required 6ohms, there is 12v on both wires on the injector clips on all four injectors (this is correct isn't it?)

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12v to both wires on the injector harness.... that does not seem right, one should be grounded through the ECU so the injector will open and close.

Get a noid light and check again.

MJcanada said:

Remove the rail with injectors and crank it over to be sure its actually spraying, if you haven't done that.

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Whoooaaaa~ Be careful there big guy. Make sure if you're doing that to point those injectors away from anything fragile. You're most likely going to fire one, if not all of them, out of the fuel rail at 43-ish PSI if everything is working properly.

BogusSVO said:

12v to both wires on the injector harness.... that does not seem right, one should be grounded through the ECU so the injector will open and close.

Get a noid light and check again.

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Absolutely. The injectors fire based on a ground pulse if I recall correctly? So one should be 12v and the other should be a pulsing ground. I recall reading this a couple of years ago and have figured it to be such, so this would be a great time to have that confirmed or corrected.

Edit :

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/405682-no-start-fuel-injectors-not-firing.html#post152619992

luv2rallye said:

A bad first O2 will make it run in open loop mode which will get bad gas mileage and not run optimum but it will run. The injectors will probably read +12v on both sides because the ECU grounds one side for only a few ms and so a voltmeter probably won't detect that short of a pulse. If you put a noid light across them it should blink. The CAS controls injectors so that would be the first thing to check. Next probably the ECU since you are getting +12v at them.

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XiKeiyaZI said:

Whoooaaaa~ Be careful there big guy. Make sure if you're doing that to point those injectors away from anything fragile. You're most likely going to fire one, if not all of them, out of the fuel rail at 43-ish PSI if everything is working properly.



Absolutely. The injectors fire based on a ground pulse if I recall correctly? So one should be 12v and the other should be a pulsing ground. I recall reading this a couple of years ago and have figured it to be such, so this would be a great time to have that confirmed or corrected.

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You would think it would but I did it once and it didn't. On a chevy I believe.

Correct they operate off of ground pulse. Though I can't remember if though both have power or not.

Hey thanks for the reply's everybody. I have a really good optima I wanna say its more than 700 cca and yes only when cold out. This morning I went out around 12: lots of sun. Inside of car was toasty so it started right up could hear fuel pump prime itself then a couple sec later I heard lots of clicking coming from where the pump relay is it shut off and on as well as did the fuel pump. So I am pretty sure its the relay now but which relay is the proper one for pump? and thanks again everybody for the suggestions. also got some new plugs I know it needs them for sure

First off thank you very much for the replies.

BogusSVO said:

12v to both wires on the injector harness.... that does not seem right, one should be grounded through the ECU so the injector will open and close.

Get a noid light and check again.

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confirmed that i have 12v on both sides, and the noid light flashes as normal.

iugrad92turbo said:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

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thank you for the link but this was the first thing i went to, i did not resolve my issue

MJcanada said:

Remove the rail with injectors and crank it over to be sure its actually spraying, if you haven't done that. And you say youve verified pressure at the rail during cranking?
Also take the plugs out and see what they look like.

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as soon as the rail pressurized it shot two of them out and fuel all over the place. the plugs look brand new with a little white due to not getting any fuel.

1995silvergst said:

Interesting, any chance you have tested the mfi relay? Odd that you have pressure at rail but none burned.

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i have check for voltage at the MFI harness and ohm'd the relay itself both check out good.



i had a feeling its something to do with the bluemax injectors so i pulled them out and replaced them with some stock bluetop 450's and it started right up, with the injectors pulsing and ran with a AFR of around 12:1.

click for video



so what would cause the FIC bluemax 1650's, which are Brand new, to not work?

Gunked up by E-85 have you cleaned then with Gas? Might have to send them in to be cleaned and flow tested...

Wil_Own said:

Gunked up by E-85 have you cleaned then with Gas? Might have to send them in to be cleaned and flow tested...

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you must not have read.....BRAND NEW

Well if your stock one's are working and you injector setup with dsmlink was right.And they are not spraying looks like I would be contacting the company and seeing If you can send them back I know its no common but maybe you got some dead injectors everything you have tested and tried all lead to the injectors so why not go that route and try that first if they are brand new you shouldn't have a problem sending them back! Also you dont need a easytune box or anything with these correct?

Wil_Own said:

Well if your stock one's are working and you injector setup with dsmlink was right.And they are not spraying looks like I would be contacting the company and seeing If you can send them back I know its no common but maybe you got some dead injectors everything you have tested and tried all lead to the injectors so why not go that route and try that first if they are brand new you shouldn't have a problem sending them back! Also you dont need a easytune box or anything with these correct?

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i have a flow test sheet from FIC that came with the injectors saying that they are matched within .5%

i know of people not using a transformer box using these injectors but i also know of some who do.

FIC does not say it is required or maybe required.

i have emailed FIC about this already and will probably hear back from them tomorrow i hope.

I hope you get it figured out butif you think about it everything you have tested does lead to the injectors I wonder what could be up with them and yea your right about the easytune box you dont need it just makes tuning them in a little bit better